EK SOHC turbo build

[Atomic-Orange-Turbo-Sloth]

okay so i snatched up a d16y8 that was for sale on here (thanks builtem1), so now the motor that got bad rod knock will be pulled out and taken apart. Im hoping that the crank is still good, but ill ask about that later on. Here goes...

GOALS - Retain AC and maybe even powersteering.
Put down between 300 and 400ish HP at the tires
run 11's if possible with full interior
obviously stay SOHC (d16y8)

PLANS - Full motor build
Darton MID sleeves
Eagle H-beams with Vitara low comp pistons
ARP studs
cam to fit the build
adjustable cam gear
upgraded springs, retainers, guides, valves

TURBO peices - this im still unsure about so if you guys could check my goals and plans and give me a good idea of afew turbo's that could be ran.
intercooler suggestions VERY open
IC pipping diameter suggestions open
quiet yet least restrictive exhaust i could purchase?

FUEL - still unsure about this, if i want to put down possibly 500+ hp in the future would a 255LPH pump do? (i highly doubt it)
contemplating buying injectors i CANT overuse, they are 2'000 CC's, cant remember the company, but i remember they put them on a bone stock teg and when tuned with them it actually dynoed with a little better numbers

ECU and other ELECTRONICS - LoCash tune FTW
wideband 02
boost gauge of course
oil temp
water temp
electronic boost controller
etc....

MISC - oiler cooler and filter relocator possibly
bigger rad for sure with slimline rad and AC fans
turbonetics turbo blanket possibly

MY QUESTIONS:

on ebay (yeah i know) the eagle h-beam rods and vitara turbo piston kit with all the gaskets is an awesome deal but it says pistons are good for 300hp, thats pretty low for a set of forged pistons, should i get a set of wiseco's or JE's?
would the darton MID sleeve kit be overkill?
would swain-tech (or similar) coating on valve heads, piston crowns, piston sides (diff coating of course), possibly even head portion of combustion chamber, be worth the money?
edelbrock intake mani or other mani worth while?
small dry shot nitrous or IC sprayer?
wrap the ex. mani and downpipe with header wrap to help reduce temps under hood further?
okay once i get it tuned i want to have like 3 available maps. 1 for economy on pump gas maybe 250ish at low PSI without spray or IC cooler. 1 for most power on pump gas 300+ at highest PSI safely possible with or without spray or IC cooler. and lastly one map for race gas whenever i wanna unleash her true potential and put down 350 to 400+. Is there any way to switch maps like this while on the run. Say some poor vette pulls up next to me and i wanna jump from Econ to power on pump gas right then and there, is it possible?

i know what im jumping into is a big investment, and some of the things listed might not be possible alone or with some of my goals, but im just looking to start planning. And i should also mention im going to run the quietest exhaust and BOV i can get that work efficiently, paint the IC black and probably the IC sprayer if i run one. I want stealth and enough power to dust about anything that should pull up next to me, especially from a roll (i hate racing from a dig)

THANKS for any and all help, i sincerely appreciate any and all of it. Unless you chime in and try to have me go to a DOHC motor when i pretty much got my mind set on building a monster turbo SOHC.

:drive::biggrin:

[gunsup0331]

cool dude.
time to start lookin at turbo maps!
im sure mr.joecash will point you in the right direction for ecu tuning
as for the exhaust if you are lookin for true sleeper quiet youre probably gonna need a cutout

[super_civic]

okay so i snatched up a d16y8 that was for sale on here (thanks builtem1), so now the motor that got bad rod knock will be pulled out and taken apart. Im hoping that the crank is still good, but ill ask about that later on. Here goes...

GOALS - Retain AC and maybe even powersteering.
Put down between 300 and 400ish HP at the tires
run 11's if possible with full interior
obviously stay SOHC (d16y8)

PLANS - Full motor build
Darton MID sleeves
Eagle H-beams with Vitara low comp pistons
ARP studs
cam to fit the build
adjustable cam gear
upgraded springs, retainers, guides, valves

TURBO peices - this im still unsure about so if you guys could check my goals and plans and give me a good idea of afew turbo's that could be ran.
intercooler suggestions VERY open
IC pipping diameter suggestions open
quiet yet least restrictive exhaust i could purchase?

FUEL - still unsure about this, if i want to put down possibly 500+ hp in the future would a 255LPH pump do? (i highly doubt it)
contemplating buying injectors i CANT overuse, they are 2'000 CC's, cant remember the company, but i remember they put them on a bone stock teg and when tuned with them it actually dynoed with a little better numbers

ECU and other ELECTRONICS - LoCash tune FTW
wideband 02
boost gauge of course
oil temp
water temp
electronic boost controller
etc....

MISC - oiler cooler and filter relocator possibly
bigger rad for sure with slimline rad and AC fans
turbonetics turbo blanket possibly

MY QUESTIONS:

on ebay (yeah i know) the eagle h-beam rods and vitara turbo piston kit with all the gaskets is an awesome deal but it says pistons are good for 300hp, thats pretty low for a set of forged pistons, should i get a set of wiseco's or JE's?
would the darton MID sleeve kit be overkill?
would swain-tech (or similar) coating on valve heads, piston crowns, piston sides (diff coating of course), possibly even head portion of combustion chamber, be worth the money?
edelbrock intake mani or other mani worth while?
small dry shot nitrous or IC sprayer?
wrap the ex. mani and downpipe with header wrap to help reduce temps under hood further?
okay once i get it tuned i want to have like 3 available maps. 1 for economy on pump gas maybe 250ish at low PSI without spray or IC cooler. 1 for most power on pump gas 300+ at highest PSI safely possible with or without spray or IC cooler. and lastly one map for race gas whenever i wanna unleash her true potential and put down 350 to 400+. Is there any way to switch maps like this while on the run. Say some poor vette pulls up next to me and i wanna jump from Econ to power on pump gas right then and there, is it possible?

i know what im jumping into is a big investment, and some of the things listed might not be possible alone or with some of my goals, but im just looking to start planning. And i should also mention im going to run the quietest exhaust and BOV i can get that work efficiently, paint the IC black and probably the IC sprayer if i run one. I want stealth and enough power to dust about anything that should pull up next to me, especially from a roll (i hate racing from a dig)

THANKS for any and all help, i sincerely appreciate any and all of it. Unless you chime in and try to have me go to a DOHC motor when i pretty much got my mind set on building a monster turbo SOHC.

:drive::biggrin:


Don't go with Vitara Pistons if your goal is more than 300whp, although they create a lower compression ratio, they are still just Cast pistons, with this kind of build you need to invest in some really nice forged pistons (plenty of options). Some Wiseco 9.0:1 Pistons should be perfect along with ARP rod bolts. And are you keeping the motor stock bore or are you wanting to go a little bigger since you plan on sleeving it?

From what I've heard the D16Y7/8 Oil pumps aren't that good when it comes to flowing oil to high HP setups, so somehow I would look into either a Z6/A6 oil pump maybe or save you the trouble and go with a Z6 or A6 block and keep the Y8 Head or whatever floats your boat. I'd just be careful because the Y-Series pumps have been known to fail @ over 300hp.

As far as fuel goes, since what youre going for is basically a race setup you should probably get the 255lph pump, FPR, 1000cc injectors should work just fine, and maybe an upgraded fuel rail.

For an ECU setup I'd probably go with an OBD1 P28 and get yourself the Hondata S300, and all your appropriate guages. As far as the multiple MAPs I'm not sure how that will go, but I do know with the S300 you can upload different MAPs whenver you want as long as you have a Laptop hooked up and avialable in your car so that would probably answer your 3-MAP question.
I would answer more but I think you should maybe do a little more research and actually talk to a few local pros who have built race-setup sohcs like maybe Robert @ hush22 or do research into Eizihora (or whatever his first name is lol) Bisimoto, that guy is King of sohc Honda builds.

[turbo4dr]

Personally, I would recommend that you find a z6 or d15b and build it. Everyone talks about the y series oiling concerns.
Random info: Vitaras are fine up to 500whp; as for the map sensor (remember resolution is lost with larger bar map sensors so choose appropriately). Remember to upgrade the head if you shooting for 375whp+
Turbo: A gt30 would be nice, no?
Start by joining turbod16 or d-series and do some reading.

[phxz6]

Like why-ate-spoolD said you have to read read and read. Also y-series suck and have some bad oiling issues. And last your making your build more complicated then it has to be, oil cooler, turbo blanket, intercooler sprayer, heat wrap exhaust,nitrous, etc, WTF! this aint fast and the furious you don't need all that shit. Your best bet is to do as much research as you can , but Good luck and I would love to see another fast single cam in AZ

[bumpstick]

vitaras are good to well over 400 hp, proven by many people before. IMO i wouldn't use Eagle rods but rather FJ's custom length I beams. This combo is good for 500+ hp and again, has been proven. Save the money you would spend on sleeves and get a good snail instead. 2,000 cc injectors are way overkill and will give you nothing but horrible idle. 350 hp is within reach on a stock head so spend money where it needs to be spent (bullet proof bottom end, awesome turbo, tune, TUNE, TUNE!) and save money where you can save it (shop around for deals, don't replace parts unless they are bottlenecks standing in the way of your power goals). and don't forget that putting that much power down with a stock tranny is just asking for trouble, so make sure to budget in $$ for an LSD, clutch, spare axles, and slicks, plus 20+ passes at the strip to get the best out of the most important part of the equation, THE DRIVER. definitely join D-Series.org for more info. you'd be surprised how many people are in the 11's with budgets and less than 400 hp

[Mr.Burner]

I have a d16 darton sleeved motor build going right now.... The set up is cp pistons and "real" eagle rods, crower valve train and cam....bored to 76mm bore.

Go with a nice billet piston and ditch the vitaras... cant go wrong with weisco or cp
Lookin for about the same power 400whp on pump gas...

I wouldnt worry about coating parts not really needed for something like this...just have everything balanced and checked over by your machinist...

We sleeved it just to get the longevity.

Soon to see locash...

[turbo4dr]

I have a d16 darton sleeved motor build going right now.... The set up is cp pistons and "real" eagle rods, crower valve train and cam....bored to 76mm bore.

Go with a nice billet piston and ditch the vitaras... cant go wrong with weisco or cp
Lookin for about the same power 400whp on pump gas...

I wouldnt worry about coating parts not really needed for something like this...just have everything balanced and checked over by your machinist...

We sleeved it just to get the longevity.

Soon to see locash...

Sounds like a great build, what are the specs on the head?

[Atomic-Orange-Turbo-Sloth]

Personally, I would recommend that you find a z6 or d15b and build it. Everyone talks about the y series oiling concerns.
Random info: Vitaras are fine up to 500whp; as for the map sensor (remember resolution is lost with larger bar map sensors so choose appropriately). Remember to upgrade the head if you shooting for 375whp+
Turbo: A gt30 would be nice, no?
Start by joining turbod16 or d-series and do some reading.
im wondering why you suggested a z6 or d15b when you yourself are running basicly a d16y8 (y7 head but y8 spec your sig says). Ive heard of the oiling issues but not anything else about the d16y8 being terrible for boost duties. Im buying another d16y8 to put in now and make it drivable as for now and ill have the d16y8 torn down and start rebuilding it.

would it really be best to not build up the y8?

[Mr.Burner]

Sounds like a great build, what are the specs on the head?

Just aftermarket valves, valve springs, retainers, cam... stock ports

[bumpstick]

im wondering why you suggested a z6 or d15b when you yourself are running basicly a d16y8 (y7 head but y8 spec your sig says). Ive heard of the oiling issues but not anything else about the d16y8 being terrible for boost duties. Im buying another d16y8 to put in now and make it drivable as for now and ill have the d16y8 torn down and start rebuilding it.

would it really be best to not build up the y8?
The Z6/D15B bottom ends have less oiling issues and would be ideal vs. the Y series motors. You can do things to make the Y more reliable though.

[Atomic-Orange-Turbo-Sloth]

The Z6/D15B bottom ends have less oiling issues and would be ideal vs. the Y series motors. You can do things to make the Y more reliable though.
but id be better off buying a d16z6 bottom end and putting the y8 head on it? will the y8 head bolt right up?

[Mr.Burner]

You can use your y8 motor and be just fine if you use 5-20 oil (less cavatation)....... the problem is the pump on these motors kinda suck at high rpm..anything past 7200rpm is iffy. Thats why i recomend thin oil... I use 5-20 mobile 1 one in my k car so i can rev it without having the oil turn to foam. Will be doing the same with the d build.

Toga makes a "high volume" pump, but its nothing more then a stock pump hogged out... if you dont want to do the work, heres a good option.

I re worked the stock pump for this set up myself...and had my machinist chamfer the oil holes on the crank.

You can also use a z6 pump but you will loose your dipstick and thats not an option for my build...

[crash lander]

Personally, I would recommend that you find a z6 or d15b and build it. Everyone talks about the y series oiling concerns.
Random info: Vitaras are fine up to 500whp; as for the map sensor (remember resolution is lost with larger bar map sensors so choose appropriately). Remember to upgrade the head if you shooting for 375whp+
Turbo: A gt30 would be nice, no?
Start by joining turbod16 or d-series and do some reading.

Like why-ate-spoolD said you have to read read and read. Also y-series suck and have some bad oiling issues. And last your making your build more complicated then it has to be, oil cooler, turbo blanket, intercooler sprayer, heat wrap exhaust,nitrous, etc, WTF! this aint fast and the furious you don't need all that shit. Your best bet is to do as much research as you can , but Good luck and I would love to see another fast single cam in AZ

The oiling concerns are due to the oil pump being inadequate. If he removes the ckf sensor via the hack then he may run an OBD1 z6 oil pump which has more flow than its OBD2 y8 counterparts.

Def use FJ's rods if you want 9.0:1 cr. If not the eagles will provide 8.5:1 which will allow for more boost but will create a boostard motor. If you are rolling this dd i would not recommend a cr that low with a d series. I also believe that your build is overkill for the power you want. I understand safe but, you could use your money more wisely. 2cents:lightsword:

[Mr.Burner]

the oiling concerns are due to the oil pump being inadequate. If he removes the ckf sensor via the hack then he may run an obd1 z6 oil pump which has more flow than its obd2 y8 counterparts.





you can also use a z6 pump but you will loose your dipstick...

Note this

[Atomic-Orange-Turbo-Sloth]

Note this
so honestly i would be better off getting a z6 bottom end and then mating my y8 head to it? is that possible and/or easy?

thanks for all the info guys im LOVIN it!

[honduh_head]

yes you can use that head on a z6

[honduh_head]

good build btw.

[Atomic-Orange-Turbo-Sloth]

good build btw.
thanks, but it might not happen on a y8 now, builtem1 seems to have sold the motor out from underneith me so ill take my money elsewhere.

i can get a d15b SOHC vtec longblock for 575 from h-motors online. Can i use my y8 trans on it? Head? do they make sleeves and pistons and all that stuff for it? will i need the p08 ecu they list for extra $$$?

or should i hold out for d16z6?

[honduh_head]

Iirc that d15b head = d16z6 head. So I would just use that. Sleeves should be the same as any other d series, and pretty much all the rods and pistons are interchangable. Not really sure though. I would research all that on dseries.org before purchasing through hmotors

[Mr.Burner]

As a note... you will be moding the main girdle with any aftermarket rod..

[turbo4dr]

As a note... you will be moding the main girdle with any aftermarket rod..

That is not true. Only block notching is required with the FJT i-beam rods.

OP, either get a z6 or d15b and build that. When you mix match heads/blocks, you will just get a headache; quench pads on the y series head + timing, oiling concerns on the y series, etc.

I stuck with the y-series because I picked it up for 25 bucks in Colorado back when no one cared about SOHCs.

[Mr.Burner]

my bad...i beams clear, h beams dont.

[Atomic-Orange-Turbo-Sloth]

UPDATE::::::::

found a d16a6 out of a 91 CRX on craigs, its gotta be cheap because she sucked in water, said it was pumped out immediatly but im replacing all of the internals anyways. Should i jump on it or wait for a z6?

EDIT: unless its cheap i aint gonna get it, the z6 looks that much better, especially with its sexy vtec crossover!

[Mr.Burner]

If if sucked up water......any damage is prolly done to the rods....just make sure the didnt bend and beat the inside of the motor internally to the sleeve....

Get the vtec motor!!

[Atomic-Orange-Turbo-Sloth]

If if sucked up water......any damage is prolly done to the rods....just make sure the didnt bend and beat the inside of the motor internally to the sleeve....

Get the vtec motor!!
yeah im just gonna wait and get a z6, i see a head a bottom end for sale on here, c'mon tax refund, papa needs a new pair of shoes!

[ActionMike]

Lots after great info, I'm looking to Turbo my d16 sometime, and now I know what kind of stuff to save for.

[AZ_CIVIC]

You can take a look at my set up, I have an awesome street set up that I put together. I have thought of every aspect to keeping this a daily driven car that will not overheat during summers buy choosing the right intercooler set up etc. I recently made 480WHP at locash and still have power steering and AC in my car. This was accomplished with 16.8 psi, which is low boost especially if you go with a sleeved block like I did.

The car has also ran 11's as well.

I drive it to work everyday, it also is a coupe, full interior, with sub box in the trunk.

[MEAN STREET EF]

thanks, but it might not happen on a y8 now, builtem1 seems to have sold the motor out from underneith me so ill take my money elsewhere.

i can get a d15b SOHC vtec longblock for 575 from h-motors online. Can i use my y8 trans on it? Head? do they make sleeves and pistons and all that stuff for it? will i need the p08 ecu they list for extra $$$?

or should i hold out for d16z6?


Kinda seems like a dreamer build....you said you had the engine. This build will cost much more than you think. I ran a smiliar setup and if you want it fully built, which it sounds like you do, it will cost a lot of time ontop of money also....that's if you want quality. Dosnt seem like you even know the basics of the motor with the type of questions your asking when trying to do a build like this. Plan on headwork? Port and plolish, 3 angle valve job? Motormounts? Does you car have the suspension/steering for this? That's more money. You have to go slow to go fast, upgraded brakes? Does your ek have rear discs? upgrade brakes....tires/wheels for traction, built tranny, cost of labor etc....etc.... I know your here to learn.


My 2 cents

[AZ_CIVIC]

Kinda seems like a dreamer build....you said you had the engine. This build will cost much more than you think. I ran a smiliar setup and if you want it fully built, which it sounds like you do, it will cost a lot of time ontop of money also....that's if you want quality. Dosnt seem like you even know the basics of the motor with the type of questions your asking when trying to do a build like this. Plan on headwork? Port and plolish, 3 angle valve job? Motormounts? Does you car have the suspension/steering for this? That's more money. You have to go slow to go fast, upgraded brakes? Does your ek have rear discs? upgrade brakes....tires/wheels for traction, built tranny, cost of labor etc....etc.... I know your here to learn.


My 2 cents

I agree it does cost alot to do it right and go fast, but you don't really need big brake upgrades if you are just racing quarter mile. Depending on the motor setup you dont need to have a built tranny either, I have a stock CTR tranny that I ran with 600 whp and now as my daily with 480whp, I have had that tranny for 6 years and it has not one grind or any problem. For traction all he needs is a good set of slicks and a LSD is a for sure to.