Fuck T-taps.

[VTECin5th]

I just wanted to make a post about T-Taps. Fuck them.
I've only used them once and it was many years ago and I've recently found out.. they're still shit.

Lately, my amp would cut out on the left RCA when I'd hit a bump. I determined it wasn't the sub, the wiring, the amp or the ground. Now, to dig into the dash. 2005 RSX-S 6disc changer. I hit the dash and it cuts out... awesome.

I get the panel off and pry the giant CD-changer/stereo out and I see fucking T-TAPS! NOOOO!
The previous owner had someone install his wiring, but I'm unimpressed. They t-tap'd right at the harness, with literally .5 inch of space. I can clearly see 2 potential reasons for the cutting out. One (power) wire is cut and barely making connection. 2 of the t-taps didn't even 'tap' right and one of those wasn't even secure on the wire. For fuck's sake, electrical tape is 1000x more reliable if you tape it right. Even a good t-tap is shit after a few thousand bumps in the road.

I'm kinda surprised, the previous owner paid for Monster Cables throughout and paid the +$80 for the Monster Cable FX100 line converter (hi-pass to RCA). So there it is, a terribly t-tapped, expensive line converter jammed in the dash space. I pull the taps out and fashion a connection to the wire that's almost completely broken. Yep, electrical tape. I rarely solder inside my car, and shrink-tube is unavailable to me right now. Tape it is. The 1 respectable thing was using the line converter before the BOSE amp but then again, that probably explains the feedback, since my grounds were checked, when I first noticed it.

I put the line converter to a rear speaker (they had tap'd the front speakers, which pisses me off, even if it's more common somewhere) and besides gaining too much power, the feedback is gone AFTER the amp. I find that somewhat neat.... except I can't keep the converter there.

Now, I'm stuck on whether to just get rid of having a sub all together and sell my shit or go buy an aftermarket deck with the BOSE integration harness. I do enjoy audio but I can live with the BOSE mids they've provided. They're just fine for my listening tastes these days. However, I can't live with under powering or over powering the converter (quite common with these magical devices)
Which leads me to... I think I need an aftermarket HU. Then again, the integrity of the radio harness was compromised by a fucking dipshit and I may just leave it be. Sell my amp and wire my sub to 8ohms and run it as a surround sound sub in my house.

Is it just me or does it seem like every single time someone before you, wires the car you own, it NEVER sounds as good as the 'last time' you wired one from start to finish? I am by no means a professional installer but I just wanted to let everyone know... FUCK t-taps.

[sneak_97ek]

butt connectors ftmfw!!.

[Not JDMHN8]

I won't use t-taps anymore, either. Found these a few weeks back. Loved the Posi-Lock connectors, and these are just as good. A little bulky, though, so not great for tight quarters. Removable with minimal damage to the wire, too.

http://www.posi-lock.com/instructions/posi-tap_1.jpg

http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html

[dobslob]

solder

[auex]

solder

best way.

[4bangin]

Never use t taps in an audio system that's just plain laziness! I use them for security installs on customers whips because it saves mass time. The proper size t tap applied properly in a security system shouldn't cause an issue at all. Solder is by far the best method, just doesn't make sense on complcated jobs in a shop, unless it's ur own whip....

[bumpstick]

some people complain about t-taps but i've used them before with zero issues. i guess it's hit or miss.

[RobHimself]

When properly gauged they work fine.

[advert]

if you use 3m t-taps like they are ment to be used there will never be a problem.

[ChrisIsYoung]

some people complain about t-taps but i've used them before with zero issues. i guess it's hit or miss.

When properly gauged they work fine.

What they said...

[Dead Bird]

I used T-Taps to wire Vtec on my jumper harness.
Seemed like the best thing to do in my situation.

Now just to fix the bent valves. :(

[TuksonMike]

done correctly, any way works properly... Ive used just about every method possible over the past 14 years and cant say I prefer any one over the other... Any time im doing PCM/BCM or very important things such as fuel system/injectors I use solder/shrinkwrap or at least solder and tape, but for anything else such as alarms, accessories, stereos etc I use Ttaps with id say less than .001% failure (usually the failure is my fault for either using a tap on too large of a wire or not completely clamping the tap down).

the ones I refuse to use are scotch locks because they look sloppy and cant just be unplugged, and I really dont care for the best buy method of splitting the wire, inserting 2nd wire through original wire, wrapping around, taping then zip tie around the outside... while im sure it works, I just dont like it.

[i30stmi]

I just charged a guy 60 dollars to repair an issue with his remote start/alarm. He did the install himself and it looked perfect. He used T-taps for EVERYTHING, even his data wires. All I had to do was remove the T-taps from his two data wires and solder them and everything worked perfect. I suggested that he remove the remaining wires and reconnect them with solder.

as it says in the MECP basic book... "nothing says amature hour like T-taps"

[auex]

Data wires are a big mistake if you t tap those. Those are a definate solder job.

[jakellama123]

solder ftw