Walling the Accord

[DarkTinman]

So hopefully with this post i can blow most of your minds, if not, enjoy!


I will soon be working on walling my 1997 honda accord with 2 18 inch DC subwoofers (level 4 with level 5 soft parts), running on 1 (soon to be 2) HC1800 batteries with stock alt, 1800 kenwood amp, zero gauge.

Now i will be working on this project and i should be done sometime after december. My question for any car audio smarties out there is this, I will post the stats of the subs below for the level 4's and the level 5's. Now keep in mind that they are STILL level 4's but they contain level 5 parts (such as motor and spider). So my subs will fall in the middle of level 5 and level 4. Now the real question is this, What amp do you think i should be running to these woofers? I will be SUPER pissed if someone post something like, Alpine, MTX, Rockford, ect, ect. These are BRAND names that will NOT push the RMS i need on these subs. If you don't know much about car audio, PLEASE don' t post useless answers like that!

So what do you think?

Level 4


The Level 4 sub is a large double stacked motor weighing in at almost 30LBS each, wrapped in a magnet boot with a chrome top plate and T yoke yielding 23.5mm of X-Max
You also get with the upgraded progressive spiders, cone, surround, 3" coil, cast basket, push terminals and upgraded lead wire.
The Level 4 is rated at 1000w RMS and 2000w peak. Designed for ported enclosures and is a great choice for high-powered daily systems and competitors Key Features
• Extremely rigid non-pressed paper cone assembly
• Multilayered polymer foam surround
• Polypropylene dust cover with embossed DC logo
• 8”OD semi cup progressive roll spider
• Extra heavy duty interweaved tinsel lead wire
• Cast aluminum black frame
• FEA analyzed and optimized motor assembly – Fully CNC machined
• Rubber mounting gasket
• Chrome spring loaded push terminals
• Dual 2 ohm 3” Hi-temp Aluminum voice coil wound on black anodized voice coil former
• Rubber magnet cover


Level 5
73lbs triple stacked 1" slug, FEA optimized monster. We use a 8-layer flat wound 3" coil. Its available is D1ohm or D2ohm configurations. We also use upgraded multiple progressive spiders, upgraded cones, surround, lead wire, a cast basket and push terminals.
Key Features
• Extremely rigid non-pressed paper cone assembly
• Multilayered polymer foam surround
• Polypropylene dust cover with embossed DC logo
• 8”OD semi cup progressive roll spiders
• Extra heavy duty interweaved tinsel lead wire
• Cast aluminum black frame
• FEA analyzed and optimized motor assembly – Fully CNC machined
• Rubber mounting gasket
• Chrome spring loaded push terminals
• Dual 1ohm or 2 ohm 3” 8 Layer Hi-temp Aluminum voice coil wound on black anodized voice coil former

[bumpstick]

Have you ever heard of MMATS?

[PENTAGRAM_OF_EVIL]

Um the brands you named all do make an amp big enought. But from exp. do not get a rockford... ok I used to run 2 pioneer premiers in my 96 accord. I ran 4 preimeer amps ( I will get you model #) and they worked great they were 2000 each.

[DarkTinman]

I have never heard of MMATS.

Yeah i know but i don't feel like they are reliable. I don't know, i have been looking into this for awhile. It's funny because on other forums i am being told that no other brands are good except for Rockford lol.

[PENTAGRAM_OF_EVIL]

I have never heard of MMATS.

Yeah i know but i don't feel like they are reliable. I don't know, i have been looking into this for awhile. It's funny because on other forums i am being told that no other brands are good except for Rockford lol.

I personly don't like there amps. But take a trip to there plant they are off university and the 101 and yes rockford is made in az if you didn't know that.

[SloDezl]

is this system for personal enjoyment or for competition? cause u can get amps that put out 15k watts and more but it doesnt seem like the subs or charging system can handle that.

when i did spl competitions i used 6-15in crossfire subs and 2 1000d crossfire amps and posted 158.3 db at a usac event and you could listen to this system and still compete with it. so it just depends on budget and how much abuse u wanna give it.

no sure if that helps but building an spl system needs stereo stuff thats designed for the abuse not some amp or sub that the local audio express sells. some companys that build good stuff. crossfire,image dynamics, mmats, kove, atomic, us amps, and i can find more.

[DarkTinman]

Yeah right in Tempe actually.

For both actually. I want good numbers but i also want to enjoy it. I suppose those go right in hand. Yeah i don't believe my subs would be able to handle 15k watts at all.

Do you still know about races and stuff going on around? It's been so silent here in AZ and i don't really know where i need to for competitions.

The DC's are in NO WAY just off of some stereo store. I have been doing research and i know for the most part what i am talking about. The reason i say most part is because i don't know everything and i don't want for you to presume i do. I am not the average person who puts 12's in their car and thinks they are the loudest on the block. I just am looking for some extra pointers and ideas

[SloDezl]

well for more ideas go to soundoff.org or caraudioevents.com <-- is from phoenix and he does all the usaci sound off events, i have traveled with him helping out with the shows.

[DarkTinman]

Cool man, i will check those out! Thanks for the info!

[DarkTinman]

Also i have some more questions. Me and my engineer friend were talking about how we want to build this box. We came across some more questions that we wanted to throw at you all. All answers are GREATLY appreciated!

First off, we wanted to have a Removable Front Piece, meaning, where the front of the wall/where the subs will be mounted to, if we made it a removable piece but put rubber gaskets over the sides so that it will be sealed. Now, as general as this is, my question is, will it not be able to seal properly and will i lose air/numbers because of it. The reason we want to do this is so that we can get to the subs and easily get into the box etc. What do you guys think about this? We would be screwing in/bolting the front piece. Double nuts etc. Everything would be secure.

Second, mounting the subs. I have looked at builds and i understand how people do it sorta, but no one really explains what bolts they use. We were both wondering what exactly we would use. We aren't sure if wood screws would be enough. Also, i do understand how to make subwoofers flush and stuff to the box but i just don't understand what the screws need to be!

Third, and lastly, I have talked to many people about the different boxes and sizes. I have learned about bottoming out and more about how much the box size matters. We (when i say we i am talking about myself and the person who is the engineer helping with the project) were assuming that we just need to build the box big and tune the port. Well with all of this new information, i don't even know anymore. So the biggest thing is, what is the minimum and (maximum?) space we can have for the box with out bottoming out or doing anything that could harm the woofers. I honestly have a lot of questions about this part and this is the most crucial part of the box!

Thanks again for all of your answers, you guys really have helped me along and i look forward to more of your help!