couple questions on a freshly rebuil b16.

[Slo_sohc]

ok, i have a few questions. 1st question iis, can i re-use my stock head studs? if not how come? 2nd question, since my jdm b-16a is freshly rebuilt from the ground up, how many miles should i drive it to break it in? should it be all freeway miles?intown?mixed? i have a jdm itr tranny w/lsd so idk if this will make a difference on break in.my mounts are comming in within the next few days so i will be putting this in within a week so if you guys/girls can help me out i would highly highly appreciate it. (btw it is a completely stock rebuild, stock bore, pistons, rings ,the whole 9 yards.)

[Mr.Burner]

On the headstuds you can reuse them if the stretch is within spec. Better to just get arp's but stock ones do work.

Break in, on a stock motor, i would heat cycle the headgasket twice, no driving making sure the fans come on and no overheating issues no oil leaks. Then drive it normal for a few days in town and alittle freeway, then the second or third day, try vtec to make sure everything pulls smooth and no cel lights etc. Then just drive it normal for a few more weeks change oil etc. You dont have to go by this....

[Slo_sohc]

On the headstuds you can reuse them if the stretch is within spec. Better to just get arp's but stock ones do work.

Break in, on a stock motor, i would heat cycle the headgasket twice, no driving making sure the fans come on and no overheating issues no oil leaks. Then drive it normal for a few days in town and alittle freeway, then the second or third day, try vtec to make sure everything pulls smooth and no cel lights etc. Then just drive it normal for a few more weeks change oil etc. You dont have to go by this....
ok cool. i had these questions because me and my friends were arguing over this so i decided to seek help from you guys. and as far as the oil chang, i was going to change it around 200-250 miles and then throw synthetic in. but i have arp head studs but my fukn little bro lost all my nuts!!! i had them all in the block ready to go and he decides to fk with my stuff haha. but the stock ones are the factory oem never been changed ever studs haha.

[hatch520]

im pretty sure you can order new nuts from arp

[Slo_sohc]

^^^ found a site that sells just the nuts but i cant find the freakin right size nuts now. my 12pt socket that fits on the one nut i have left is a 13mm. but cant find a 13mm 12pt set. if all fails ill just use my stock ones.

[Agent Smith]

arp is 1/2" 12pt contact arp for replacement nuts...

[Slo_sohc]

arp is 1/2" 12pt contact arp for replacement nuts...
half inch huh.. i found a grip of half inch on the rplacepment nuts and didnt even know haha. thank you agent smith now i can order these badboys!!:you rock:

[taketurns]

Start it, let it idle for 10 minutes to check for leaks and over heating issues. If all systems are go, beat the piss out of it. Remember to use your motors compression to slow down, helps rings seal.

[I Hate Import Cars]

The key to seating rings properly is load. This is why I always have mine done on the dyno. Basically as soon as I have verified there are no problems with leaks and whatnot I shut it down and tow it to the dyno. I know quite a few guys who race who (after freshening up a motor aka no tuning needed) put it on the track and start making full throttle passes. By the end of one night, it's ready to go. I've never understood the logic behind slowly building up to full load or throttle. The cross hatching in the bores will only last so long so you better take full advantage of it while you can. That's MY way though, take it for what it's worth...