What should I buy?

[monSTIer]

I have 2000 civic cx hatch that I just bought a usdm itr 5 lug for and it came with ss lines. I am going k20a2 with jrsc and some other internal work. I will be using hybrid racing's ekk2 type mounts. Tein flex with edfc. Now what brands do you guys like for: LSD, toe rods, clamber kits, swaybars, and ????????? What else should I be looking into. I will be weekend driving this and hopefully doing some track events. All input is welcomed but let's keep it positive.

[boozebag]

wow, lots o work! i'd go with a clutch pack style lsd if you are going to track the car. Either a j's or an m factory, m factory might be a little cheaper. as far as sway barss, stock jdm itr ones are nice and cheap, i use a cusco in the rear thats affordable as well. I dont know what a toe rod is so i cant help you out on that one. Good luck with the build man

[monSTIer]

Are there any plate type LSD's that are as plug and play as the gear type. It sounds to me like the plate types are strictly for racing and people who can tear the trans apart every few months. The toe link aka toe rod connects the front of the rear trailing arm to the chassis. Thanks for the input.

[Agent Smith]

If you want longevity, get a gear/helical type lsd. an Mfactory or quaife lsd would suit you well if your not strictly a track car. Type-R will also work, but not as effective as a quaife (much cheaper though), obx is the same design as a quaife but you must expect to at least replace the hardware kit before installing & even then cross your fingers for the first 500 miles, after that your either golden or f'd. camber kits just make sure they have good hardware, stock also works quite well, camber is a generally a good thing. stock toe links & rod ends, you can go spherical everything if you must. sypherical trailing arm bushings are a big plus. Sway bars, oem ITR works great imo, if you want bigger, asr bar, make sure you get a rear subframe brace.

[monSTIer]

I was leaning toward quaife. Who makes the spherical type trailing arm bushings. Do you guys recommend any local shops for auto x parts. How about one that can stitch weld the chassis and build a cage?

[BlueTeg]

I have 2000 civic cx hatch that I just bought a usdm itr 5 lug for and it came with ss lines. I am going k20a2 with jrsc and some other internal work. I will be using hybrid racing's ekk2 type mounts. Tein flex with edfc. Now what brands do you guys like for: LSD, toe rods, clamber kits, swaybars, and ????????? What else should I be looking into. I will be weekend driving this and hopefully doing some track events. All input is welcomed but let's keep it positive.

With all that you have listed I don't think you really need to get anything else. Maybe some good street tires (Kumho XS, Dunlop Star Spec or Hankook RS3 are all good) and then just focus on getting out there and enjoying what you have. You'll have more than enough toys on there to make your first few months at the track a blast.
It's easier to learn how to drive on track with a stock or close to stock car. You get guys that mod their cars to the nine, and then get out there and get frustrated because the car doesn't drive the way they thought it would given all the sh*t they put into it. You won't know how to setup your car until you get out there and get a baseline of what the car's strengths and weaknesses are.

[BlueTeg]

I was leaning toward quaife.

Who makes the spherical type trailing arm bushings.

Do you guys recommend any local shops for auto x parts.

How about one that can stitch weld the chassis and build a cage?

Good choice

PCI make some http://passwordjdm.com/PasswordJDM-Rear-Trailer-Arm-Spherical-Bearing-Kit-P1854C1926.aspx
Also good Hard Race bushings I think they make some also.
Again, I think that's something that you should hold off on until later unless your current bushings are shredded.

UMS Tuning has a good background with road racing

http://www.precisionchassisworks.com/
Kent is very familiar with the requirements for getting a cage to pass tech with most of the local road racing orgs.

[monSTIer]

The suspension is all off the car and the the transmision is out. That's the reason I want to do that stuff. Also, I don't have sway bars front or rear. Are the Tein flex coil overs the way to go or is there something else out there that's better for the $.

[Agent Smith]

The suspension is all off the car and the the transmision is out. That's the reason I want to do that stuff. Also, I don't have sway bars front or rear. Are the Tein flex coil overs the way to go or is there something else out there that's better for the $.
KW
Ksport
Custom valved PIC
Custom valved Koni's and ground crontrols.

There are a lot of other options.

[Broskiballa]

I have the Tien Flex, I haven't tracked them yet. But from the testing I have done, they are stiff, and very adjustable. I will not be replacing these for years to come. The ASR Rear subframe is a must for our weak ass paper then subframes. I picked up that and a 24mm rear sway from ASR. The endlinks are well contructed

I have a set of the PWJDM PCI Rear trailing arm spherical bearings for ek/dc forsale. BNIB just toss me a pm if interested.

[00IntegrAllmotoR]

AMR is another choice in suspesion.

Just do what blueteg said and get out there and experience the tracks, build ur seat time. Thats what im doing. I have the PCI RTA bushings and love them, rear much stiffer, but its also ALOT louder.

[monSTIer]

I have the Tien Flex, I haven't tracked them yet. But from the testing I have done, they are stiff, and very adjustable. I will not be replacing these for years to come. The ASR Rear subframe is a must for our weak ass paper then subframes. I picked up that and a 24mm rear sway from ASR. The endlinks are well contructed

I have a set of the PWJDM PCI Rear trailing arm spherical bearings for ek/dc forsale. BNIB just toss me a pm if interested.
Thanks for the deal on the pci bushings!
AMR is another choice in suspesion.

Just do what blueteg said and get out there and experience the tracks, build ur seat time. Thats what im doing. I have the PCI RTA bushings and love them, rear much stiffer, but its also ALOT louder.
I understand the whole seat time thing. The car is down for now so I just want to do the things I know I am going to redo anyway. Does anyone have any expirence with the ASR 24mm and 32mm hollow sway bar kits? With the weight of the k20 and the JRSC should I be going bigger than 26mm in the front?

[Agent Smith]

Thanks for the deal on the pci bushings!

I understand the whole seat time thing. The car is down for now so I just want to do the things I know I am going to redo anyway. Does anyone have any expirence with the ASR 24mm and 32mm hollow sway bar kits? With the weight of the k20 and the JRSC should I be going bigger than 26mm in the front?

26mm front will be fine, if you want stiffer change spring rates after that. the ASR 24mm or asr hollow 32mm will work great, I've driven cars with both but haven't done a back to back comparison. you shouldn't have any issues with either. If it's too much or too little oversteer, adjust spring rates or sway bar tension (with adjustable endlinks).

[monSTIer]

26mm front will be fine, if you want stiffer change spring rates after that. the ASR 24mm or asr hollow 32mm will work great, I've driven cars with both but haven't done a back to back comparison. you shouldn't have any issues with either. If it's too much or too little oversteer, adjust spring rates or sway bar tension (with adjustable endlinks).

Sounds like great info. Thanks.