Engine break in?

[Rzarectah]

I need some advice on how to break in my engine. There are so many different ways I've come across but I would like to hear how you guys have broke in your built engines. Thx.

[taintschwacker]

It depends on what kind of build you did. If you built it with a bunch of aftermarket parts, then i would run good quality oil, use a magnetic drain plug, after about 500 miles or so, change oil, collect some of the first and last part of the draining oil and check for shavings from bearings or what not, inspect the drain plug for same. if real technical cut filter in half and check the inside for shavings, pull your plugs and check them along with inspecting the top of pistons. then pull your valve cover and check your valve train for irregular wear, then refill again for another 1500 miles and recheck once again. then run for your regular 3000 miles. after about 1500 miles or so your parts should be properly sealed. do this with a good amount of stop and go driving.

[Broskiballa]

I have read about a few different methods, and in a gagillion threads.

An obvious would be break in oils Torco makes amazing oil.
Start up, idle for 10mins. Then free rev to 2k for 5-10mins.

1k Rpm accelerate in 2nd gear, and let the engine slow down the vheicle to idle
2k Rpm accelerate in 2nd gear, and let the engine slow down the vheicle to idle
rinse and repeat to redline.

The thing that is most imporant thing is a tune homie. If everything is torqued to spec, and the rings are seated properly, the motor is not going to fall apart. If it does, someone fucked up while putting it together. After that ^ run the bitch hard. :)

Plain and simple, there's no specific break in "tactic". Good luck mang.

[Rzarectah]

Yeah I heard about doing some high gear full throttle pulls, its supposed to seat the rings properly. Also in thinking royal purple hps oil, 0-30 or 0-20.

[INTEGRA DC2]

personally on multiple builds that i have done they have all been broken in on the Dyno. First oil change is after the car has started for the first time and got to operating temp. Then to the dyno. Rings will seat for sure. A Magnetic Drain Plug and a Filter Mag i think is a must.

[S!K TEG]

Idk but i've read about people using AFT oil in the chamber. I have also been wondering how break in a motor. I know a few people break in the engine before slapping on the turbo kit.

[Rzarectah]

K now that I have a minute lemme get into detail.
The block is built for boost, using arias pistons, cal auto transpeed rods, stock crank, ACL bearings, ARP hardware. I am still not fully ready for the turbo so for now I'm going to run the engine as is until I get more money/parts. I shouldn't need a tune to run it or anything crazy like that, so unfortunately a dyno break in isn't possible right now.

[Mr.Burner]

What i do it is...

Non detergent oil. Let the car warm up to operating temperature (wait till the fan kicks on) then shut it off and let cool all the way down. This will heat cycle the head gasket. Check valve adjustment. Run the car around the block to make sure theres no leaking, overheating, cel's etc. Bring it up into vtec to make sure that its working correctly (only on vtec engines). Usually put about ten mature driving miles on the motor then drain...(examine the oil for anything that shouldnt be there)

Fill up with oil you plan to use. Then dyno... Some tuners have alittle break in procedure, thats helpfull.

I have also put my personal engine on the dyno with 2 miles on it and power tuned it to 550hp cause Joe and I were out of time on a project for IFO years back... No problems and that motor still runs to this day making good power still i hear.

[Rzarectah]

What i do it is...

Non detergent oil. Let the car warm up to operating temperature (wait till the fan kicks on) then shut it off and let cool all the way down. This will heat cycle the head gasket. Check valve adjustment. Run the car around the block to make sure theres no leaking, overheating, cel's etc. Bring it up into vtec to make sure that its working correctly (only on vtec engines). Usually put about ten mature driving miles on the motor then drain...(examine the oil for anything that shouldnt be there)

Fill up with oil you plan to use. Then dyno... Some tuners have alittle break in procedure, thats helpfull.

I have also put my personal engine on the dyno with 2 miles on it and power tuned it to 550hp cause Joe and I were out of time on a project for IFO years back... No problems and that motor still runs to this day making good power still i hear.

Yeah I'm just so scared of screwing it before I get to enjoy it ya know?

[Mr.Burner]

Also to i noticed you dont plan to use the dyno off the bat.... Make sure you get a proper a/f tune AT THE LEAST!! If you are running to rich on a brand new motor and wash the cylinder you will be fucked for tying to seal any kind of good boost later down the road.

[Mr.Burner]

Yeah I'm just so scared of screwing it before I get to enjoy it ya know?

Ya i know what you mean. A fresh start up on a new engine is always a nail biter. But just have confidence and if your clearances check out good and it rotates smoothly, you should have nothing to worry about...

There should be a slight cough of oil out the exhaust on start up and that's IT!!

[Importfan2]

here is what i found on HT..and this is the method and this what im going to do on my own build

Oil changing schedule:
Startup - 30w non detergent, change after warm up
after 20 miles - your favorite non-syn
after 100 miles - your favorite non-syn
after 500 miles - your favorite non-syn
after 1000 miles - your favorite non-syn/synthetic (it is now safe to run synthetic)

You should stop seeing metal shavings in the oil after the 100 mile oil change. I strongly recommend using a magnetic oil drain plug for freshly built motors. You don't want all those shavings being pumped to the bearings, cams, or splashing on the cylinder walls...bad. Don't worry though, they will be there, no matter how close the clearances are.

Now for the break in. Try to vary the revs as much as possible, with alot of short blasts. It is very important that you let the engine "brake" itself by just letting off the throttle and letting the vehicle slow down on it's own, while in gear. This creates a vaccum in the cylinder and forces the rings outward, which wears down the peaks in the cylinder's fresh hone. Do this for the first 20 miles, and then proceed to beat the shit out of the motor, up to it's maximum rev range, as long as it is tuned accordingly. As long as the bearings are within spec and the rod bolts were torqued correctly, there is NOTHING to worry about.

I guarantee you WILL NOT burn oil using this break in method. If you do, you probably have leaky valve seals or bad rings/cylinder hone, or maybe possibly even other major problems with alignment of the sleeves themselves.

[Mr.Burner]

Wtf ^

that sounds super costly in oil...

And "you should stop seeing metal shavings after 100 miles"!?!? wtf is that about? You shouldnt see ANY PERIOD! That tells me the guy didnt have the motor cleaned properly.


But owell it came from Honda-Tech it must be right! lol

[Rzarectah]

So why can't you run synthetic immediately? Royal purple sells a synthetic break in oil. It's high in zinc and phosphorus just to break in the engine.

[mr.DUNK]

Fill with cheap oil supertech
heat cycle
Drain and refill again with cheap oil

Start tuning

1000 miles, change oil again with what u prefer and have at it.

[taintschwacker]

You can run synthetic immediately, the myths about synthetic are what they are...myths. The only difference is sythetic is man made. Synthetics are cleaner(free of impurities) and can be made for specific applications with certain detergents and additives. Thats all. Thats why they have synthetic blends cause you can use synthetic and natural oil together.

[INTEGRA DC2]

What i do it is...

Non detergent oil. Let the car warm up to operating temperature (wait till the fan kicks on) then shut it off and let cool all the way down. This will heat cycle the head gasket. Check valve adjustment. Run the car around the block to make sure theres no leaking, overheating, cel's etc. Bring it up into vtec to make sure that its working correctly (only on vtec engines). Usually put about ten mature driving miles on the motor then drain...(examine the oil for anything that shouldnt be there)

Fill up with oil you plan to use. Then dyno... Some tuners have alittle break in procedure, thats helpfull.

I have also put my personal engine on the dyno with 2 miles on it and power tuned it to 550hp cause Joe and I were out of time on a project for IFO years back... No problems and that motor still runs to this day making good power still i hear.

This is Exactly what i do. Just do this problem solved.

[king06]

Im just going to let it warm up to temp, then proceed to beat the living lights out of it. Mine is a stock rebuild tho.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

[Rzarectah]

I'm going to try all of the above simultaneously and then demand my money back when it blows lol

[1995dc24dr]

good info guys thanks i will be useing this soon

[Rzarectah]

Yeah its crazy how much of a secret it is

[Broskiballa]

here is what i found on HT..and this is the method and this what im going to do on my own build

Oil changing schedule:
Startup - 30w non detergent, change after warm up
after 20 miles - your favorite non-syn
after 100 miles - your favorite non-syn
after 500 miles - your favorite non-syn
after 1000 miles - your favorite non-syn/synthetic (it is now safe to run synthetic)

You should stop seeing metal shavings in the oil after the 100 mile oil change. I strongly recommend using a magnetic oil drain plug for freshly built motors. You don't want all those shavings being pumped to the bearings, cams, or splashing on the cylinder walls...bad. Don't worry though, they will be there, no matter how close the clearances are.

Now for the break in. Try to vary the revs as much as possible, with alot of short blasts. It is very important that you let the engine "brake" itself by just letting off the throttle and letting the vehicle slow down on it's own, while in gear. This creates a vaccum in the cylinder and forces the rings outward, which wears down the peaks in the cylinder's fresh hone. Do this for the first 20 miles, and then proceed to beat the shit out of the motor, up to it's maximum rev range, as long as it is tuned accordingly. As long as the bearings are within spec and the rod bolts were torqued correctly, there is NOTHING to worry about.

I guarantee you WILL NOT burn oil using this break in method. If you do, you probably have leaky valve seals or bad rings/cylinder hone, or maybe possibly even other major problems with alignment of the sleeves themselves.

wtf.. Oil costly?

[bigballsmagerki]

2 stroke it. Beat the F out of it.

[Mr.Burner]

I guess it just all depends what the ring manufacture recommends. Most of the newer technology with ring making has advanced so engine builders are not required to use non detergent oil...

But with some ring manufactures they ask you to use is simply so the cast iron ring can wear in the cylinder a bit. A synthetic oil can block this from happening, that is why non detergent is recommended.

This is simply and only for the cast iron ring in, break in procedure. The other rings dont care what oil is being used, as long as there being lubricated. Just go by what the ring manufacture tells you and you'll be good.

[Rzarectah]

^good info

[Dead Bird]

here is what i found on HT..and this is the method and this what im going to do on my own build

Oil changing schedule:
Startup - 30w non detergent, change after warm up
after 20 miles - your favorite non-syn
after 100 miles - your favorite non-syn
after 500 miles - your favorite non-syn
after 1000 miles - your favorite non-syn/synthetic (it is now safe to run synthetic)

You should stop seeing metal shavings in the oil after the 100 mile oil change. I strongly recommend using a magnetic oil drain plug for freshly built motors. You don't want all those shavings being pumped to the bearings, cams, or splashing on the cylinder walls...bad. Don't worry though, they will be there, no matter how close the clearances are.

Now for the break in. Try to vary the revs as much as possible, with alot of short blasts. It is very important that you let the engine "brake" itself by just letting off the throttle and letting the vehicle slow down on it's own, while in gear. This creates a vaccum in the cylinder and forces the rings outward, which wears down the peaks in the cylinder's fresh hone. Do this for the first 20 miles, and then proceed to beat the shit out of the motor, up to it's maximum rev range, as long as it is tuned accordingly. As long as the bearings are within spec and the rod bolts were torqued correctly, there is NOTHING to worry about.

I guarantee you WILL NOT burn oil using this break in method. If you do, you probably have leaky valve seals or bad rings/cylinder hone, or maybe possibly even other major problems with alignment of the sleeves themselves.

This is fromt the "how to build a reliable b20vtec"

[Rzarectah]

I had a B20VTEC.......... Until I got a job!
My oil ring is steel, but not just any steel handcrafted stainless steel.

[91Crx-SiR]

I had a b20v, then I backed out of a race.
I was 14

[Rzarectah]

Made me lol ^

[MIRANDA88]

I had a b20v, then I backed out of a race.
I was 14

Lulz.

[marky]

I had a b20v, then I backed out of a race.
I was 14


thank you for the new signature! :)

[BDD]

If you have changed alot of parts, ie compression, cams, ect then the first thing to do upon start up is to get the a/f in check. If you drive your new motor overly rich, you could wash out the rings and they will never seat properly. If it's too lean you could expand the pistons into the walls and damage your motor very quickly. Also conservative timing, if no dyno is available, to avoid pre ignition/det.

After you started the motor, and get a/f in check, you start doing load pulls to seat the rings, which only takes a matter of a few medium to heavy load pulls letting the motor decell in gear each time. This expandes the rings into the cylnder walls allowing the rings to seat properly. If you sit there and rev your motor with no load the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough. This causes less the optimal ring seal. There's a small window to get the rings to seal really well, usually in the first 30 mim of driving.

One more thing to consider is oil. Alot of people reccomend non detergent oil upon start up, and drain after 10 min of idle. What most people don't think about is; Is your motor a flat tappet engine, or do you have a newer motor that use's roller rockers? Most off the shelf oils have very little zinc, which is needed in flat tappet setups to protect the cams, and rockers from excessive wear. I use brad penn oil break in oil, which has a good amount of zinc, for the first 30 min of driving, then switch to Brad Penn high performance oil which has higher amounts of zinc to keep my new cams and rockers protected.

Just something to wrap your little minds around... lol

[Rzarectah]

Follow up:
Used AutoZone brand SAE 30w (non detergent) for the break in, just let the engine idle until warm then shut it off, rings seated in that short time. But due to an overlooked problem I am taking the engine apart again. Fml.

[king06]

Follow up:
Used AutoZone brand SAE 30w (non detergent) for the break in, just let the engine idle until warm then shut it off, rings seated in that short time. But due to an overlooked problem I am taking the engine apart again. Fml.


Overlooked? what is that?

Everything i read about breaking in engines said NOT to Idle the motor.

I just started mine today for the first time since the rebuild

Let it warm up, make sure nothing is leaking then I drove it accelerating and decelerating in every gear and different loads and throttle but, never keeping it at a constant speed.

No smoke what soever.

[Rzarectah]

See I didn't even get a chance to drive off with mine, it hit temp then I had to shut it down. The overlooked thing was the fact that I asked my machine shop to deck my block, they didn't, I didn't notice until my head gasket didn't seal due to the block being 0.008 warped! So pissed I didn't check their work... But now I have a chance to do some other things I wanted to do to it. I learned a lot so I can do it better this time anyway.

[king06]

LOL, I just re-read your sentence.

Well that sucks.

[Broskiballa]

Damn! That suckksss. Too bad. :(

[Rzarectah]

LOL, I just re-read your sentence.

Well that sucks.

What engine did you build?

[king06]

d167y8

[Rzarectah]

Did you take it to a dyno yet? Or are you not needing to?

[king06]

Dyno? lol it's a stock rebuild, no need for dyno.

If you do need a dyno, I would let it warm up make sure i don't have funny noises, no leaks etc....shut it down and tow it straight to the dyno and let the tuner break it in.

[Rzarectah]

Oh lol, I thought you were doing a performance build.

[king06]

Nope. So far the car is running fine, no smoke, oil is still SUPER clean, no water consumption.

The idle is still a little funny but I haven't have time to check it out.