Need Help - Experienced Techs [2007 Acura TL]

[VTECin5th]

Here's what I have done so far:

I tapped into the subwoofer wires post-amp, at the sub, with a Monster FX100 Factory Linx LOC. This is causing an issue, probably because it's an already high level line. Can someone confirm this?

I have removed the rear Microphone for Noise Cancelling and was still getting feedback, I disconnected the ANC module under the center speaker and continued to get feeedback. When I say feedback, I mean something like 300w RMS of 80hz just continual blast. Adjusting the volume did not help at all. I plugged the factory sub back in and it was back 'in control' without any feedback.

However, I am still experiencing some trouble.

Should I get into the (subwoofer or mids) signal wires and add my LOC to these, pre-amp and run RCA's to the rear? Get a new/different type of LOC?

Right now I am taking an amplified subwoofer signal and jamming it into the fx100 and amplifying it again. It does not produce the sound I would like it to, actually nowhere near it. It is either too annoying and not deep bass or too much excursion without actually performing/sounding like it should.

12v & Ground are @ 6ga
Amplifier in question: Alpine MRP-650 (600w RMS @ 2ohm)
Subwoofer to test with: xtant X2 dvc wired parallel to 2ohm

The box I am using is a shit box but I can worry about that later, I want to figure out the right way to feed the amp first. Installers please chime in.

Also, if someone has an exact location or color for the pre-amp sound wiring, I am finding conflicting reports, I would appreciate it.

Thank you.

[failedabortion]

I have always installed line converters on the rear deck fill speakers. Does the monster line converter have a ground for itself? All line converters are installed post amp, the factory sub amp might not work correctly without the sub wired in though.

[VTECin5th]

I have always installed line converters on the rear deck fill speakers. Does the monster line converter have a ground for itself? All line converters are installed post amp, the factory sub amp might not work correctly without the sub wired in though.

No, it doesn't have a ground for itself. Two gray (+,-) two green (+,-) and two female RCA plugs on the other end. I used the subwoofer wire for specific control from the factory headunit. The sound system in questions is ELS Surround (type-s w/ navi).

I pulled this line converter from my old car (RSX) pre-amp, because they wired it in with t-taps and it fell apart in time. After re-installing it in my RSX post-amp, using the rear speaker wires, it never sounded "full" again. I blamed the RSX' amp (Bose) system for that but now I'm not sure what to blame. This system is amp'd very much the same way as the RSX was, the exception is the sub signal works on the LOC if I plug the sub in. (This wasn't the case in the RSX, the sub signal would not create sound for the LOC in the RSX.)

The factory sub is wired in, but I have the LOC wires coming off from there too. My LOC has no adjustments so maybe it's made for pre-amp conditions intentionally?

[Fix.it.again.Tony]

When I had my bose system in my camaro, I had to gut it because the speakers were all pre-amped at the speaker and sounded like shit when hooked up to a 4 channel.

I also had to fully remove the stock bose sub and all lines too because it interfered with the subwoofer I had setup in the rear.

You are brave for trying to integrate everything..I'll ask around and see if anyone I know has more info for you

[i_timmers]

This sounds like your not putting a "line Level" input into the amp.... You will need to go pre-amp signal on most amp inputs. It is also possible you might have damaged the amp. I have had problems like this from bad RCA's too, sounds like it's got a bad ground. As Joe Schmoe said, usually you need to gut out amplified equipment and search for line level signal.

I am not familiar with the TL or it's wiring... but It wouldn't hurt to try another signal converter, but you really need to know what kind of wattage you are dealing with out of that stock amp. I don't trust signal converters unless they are specific to the exact application. It's way too easy to "overdrive" the signal you need for proper line level inputs.

My suggestion is: Try and locate a pre-amplified signal from the audio system.

I have a 2006 Honda Odyssey Touring and was considering at one point adding subs, even though I have a factory sub underneath the front passenger's seat... But was concerned about locating and using a pre-amplified signal out of that sub. Sounds eerily similar.

[VTECin5th]

Resolved.
The issue was with my box. I put the sub in a sealed box and that's it. The sub was not designed for a ported box, despite what the manufacturer says.

I broke the alpine amp somehow in the process, I think I arc'd it during all the swaps. Fuses are good but no output. I may pay to have it fixed, it was a pretty good amp for me. For now, I'm back on the 900w RMS backup amp I have.


Anyone googling:
(2007, 2008 Acura TL Type-S Navi Navigation Subwoofer Sub line wires wiring install)

The rear microphone remained unplugged. When you unplug it, it's not the tiny computer-board plug you looking toward the trunk, it is a plug you see looking toward the windshield. Standard Honda harness plug, just like the factory sub. I used the factory sub wires, at the sub, WITH the factory sub still plugged in. When unplugged, I would get feedback, as described in post 1. I disconnected the ANC module and it persisted. The only thing that worked for me was to plug the factory sub in.

The LOC (Line Out Converter) Remains in the rear of the vehicle, post-amp. I'm still using the Monster FX100. Green+Black/Grey+Black to subwoofer negative. White+Grey to subwoofer positive.

[failedabortion]

what were the specs on your ported box? Does the line loc you use have any adjustments?

This is the line output converter I usually use for most stock installs, has signal strength adjustments and ground wires that eliminate most noise other converters don't.
http://www.amazon.com/Einstall-IEC-AULOC-ADJUSTABLE-CONVERTER/dp/B000JJT012

[VTECin5th]

what were the specs on your ported box? Does the line loc you use have any adjustments?

This is the line output converter I usually use for most stock installs, has signal strength adjustments and ground wires that eliminate most noise other converters don't.
http://www.amazon.com/Einstall-IEC-AULOC-ADJUSTABLE-CONVERTER/dp/B000JJT012

The specs are viewable at xtant's website. I had that box. It was terrible.
The minute I dropped it into a sealed box to test it, it increased sound tremendously. If I lift it just a litttttle bit off the box for "air", it goes back to sounding like nothing is happening but excursion with no bass.

The LOC does not have any adjustments, I was told the signals are digitally compensated. It was over $100 new so that may be true.

[failedabortion]

Free air usually makes almost no sound. A poorly designed ported box can be quiet also. Have one professional built if you want to go with a ported box.