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View Full Version : Her LBJ broke last night...


sn000t
07-01-2012, 07:24 AM
I am aware this is not the tech section, I never see any new posts in the tech section... I don;t have days to wait, I need answers now. So I apologize now Mods...:wave1:


But seriously, my lower ball joint legit broke as I was backing up. The ball joint separated from the housing and the wheel was only attached by the upper control arm and knuckle. My brand new axle immediatley separated it self from the actually spindle ripping threw the boot. Anyway... how do I get this son of b**** out???

http://i931.photobucket.com/albums/ad158/sn000t/IMG_0419.jpg
http://i931.photobucket.com/albums/ad158/sn000t/IMG_0418.jpg

crx2quik4u
07-01-2012, 07:30 AM
Your pictures suck

Mop
07-01-2012, 08:52 AM
take the knuckle and a new ball joint to the machine shop. Or google how to replace ball joint.

TheMachinist
07-01-2012, 08:56 AM
First off what model and year is your car?

Go to majestichonda and pull up the parts diagram to see how the lower ball joint goes onto the knuckle.

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/

At that point you should be able to figure out how to push the ball housing out of the knuckle. Then pull the cotter pin and take the nut off the ball end. if you have a dremel you can use that to make the ball have two flats on it so that you may grab it to try and spin it free of the control arm.

89true1
07-01-2012, 09:27 AM
I almost got excited that lebron james broke his leg or something.

Chuck Chainz
07-01-2012, 09:43 AM
Vatozone... Ball joint removal tool.
You're welcome

failedabortion
07-01-2012, 09:58 AM
Seeing as it looks like the threaded portion is bent, I would cut it off as close to the knuckle as possible and use a ball joint separator. To get the bj housing out try a small socket(fits inside the housing) from the bottom, bigger socket(bigger than the housing) on top with a c clamp and push it into the larger socket with the smaller one. Or you can carefully cut it up and chisel it out...or take it to someone else who can get it out.

Koopa Troopa
07-01-2012, 10:30 AM
This is why you replace torn ball joint boots as soon as possible.. they need grease or that happens due to overheating and stress...

sn000t
07-01-2012, 01:48 PM
First off what model and year is your car?

Go to majestichonda and pull up the parts diagram to see how the lower ball joint goes onto the knuckle.

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/

At that point you should be able to figure out how to push the ball housing out of the knuckle. Then pull the cotter pin and take the nut off the ball end. if you have a dremel you can use that to make the ball have two flats on it so that you may grab it to try and spin it free of the control arm.

1996 accord ex coupe

Seeing as it looks like the threaded portion is bent, I would cut it off as close to the knuckle as possible and use a ball joint separator. To get the bj housing out try a small socket(fits inside the housing) from the bottom, bigger socket(bigger than the housing) on top with a c clamp and push it into the larger socket with the smaller one. Or you can carefully cut it up and chisel it out...or take it to someone else who can get it out.



These two posts are probably the most useful. Thank you for actually putting some input into it.

Koopa Troopa
07-01-2012, 02:48 PM
The ball joint itself is held in with a snap ring... You could prolly just remove the snap ring and heat the knuckle up with a torch and pound the ball joint out if the puller doesn't work.

CobraKai
07-01-2012, 03:06 PM
go to harbor freight and buy their balljoint separator for like 15 or 20 bucks, then stick that in between the balljoint and LCA and use a 19mm to turn the separator until the balljoint pops out, wear eye protection, it might shoot outta there since its not attached to the spindle anymore.

Then you'll need a snap ring plier to remove the snap ring holding the balljoint in, you can buy those at harbor freight also for about 4 bucks, but they're kinda shitty quality so don't squeeze the shit outta it, just enough to undo the ring.

Then take a hammer and hammer out the junk balljoint outta the spindle.

I then went to Autozone and rented what looks like a gigantic C clamp to push the new balljoint in. You don't wanna hammer it in, you'll risk damaging the balljoint. Has to be pressed in, that C clamp will do it though, I used my impact on it once I got the right spacers over the spindle and it went in like butter.

I actually managed to do the balljoint inside an Autozone store one time lol. But Autozone ones are fine, they're 18.99 lifetime warranty and will do the job fine. Just make sure you don't damage the boots when installing and removing. Thats the key to making balljoints last, the boot HAS to be intact w/ no dirt or crap getting inside and it'll practically last forever.

sn000t
07-01-2012, 04:11 PM
go to harbor freight and buy their balljoint separator for like 15 or 20 bucks, then stick that in between the balljoint and LCA and use a 19mm to turn the separator until the balljoint pops out, wear eye protection, it might shoot outta there since its not attached to the spindle anymore.

Then you'll need a snap ring plier to remove the snap ring holding the balljoint in, you can buy those at harbor freight also for about 4 bucks, but they're kinda shitty quality so don't squeeze the shit outta it, just enough to undo the ring.

Then take a hammer and hammer out the junk balljoint outta the spindle.

I then went to Autozone and rented what looks like a gigantic C clamp to push the new balljoint in. You don't wanna hammer it in, you'll risk damaging the balljoint. Has to be pressed in, that C clamp will do it though, I used my impact on it once I got the right spacers over the spindle and it went in like butter.

I actually managed to do the balljoint inside an Autozone store one time lol. But Autozone ones are fine, they're 18.99 lifetime warranty and will do the job fine. Just make sure you don't damage the boots when installing and removing. Thats the key to making balljoints last, the boot HAS to be intact w/ no dirt or crap getting inside and it'll practically last forever.


Bought a MOOG ball joint. $41 at O'reillys. Got the Ball joint removal tool and honda adapter, a brand new axle, and now I just need to go pop this sucker out, pop in a new one put in the axle and finish everything and call it a day.

Rzarectah
07-01-2012, 07:25 PM
David, save yourself the trouble of doing it yourself and go to AutoZone and get a new ball joint for 16 bucks. Take it to a machine shop and they will press it out and the new one in for about 20 bucks. Problem solved and done the right way.

sn000t
07-01-2012, 07:34 PM
David, save yourself the trouble of doing it yourself and go to AutoZone and get a new ball joint for 16 bucks. Take it to a machine shop and they will press it out and the new one in for about 20 bucks. Problem solved and done the right way.

I got a Moog one already haha and I already am half way done. Just need to press the new one into the hub, pull the other half of my axle out of the transmission and put the new one and bolt everything back up. Next task: find a decent frost white fender and fix my bumper... damn tow truck driver fucked it all up! :pissed:

Rzarectah
07-01-2012, 08:13 PM
Glad I got my cheesy tow hook!!
Ricer bwr tow hook FTW!!!

sn000t
07-02-2012, 01:29 AM
Glad I got my cheesy tow hook!!
Ricer bwr tow hook FTW!!!

Well... I just have to pull the bumper (4 bolts) and realign it haha just a pain not hard to do. :sleep: