I want to build my b series motor , help please

[dragoonjoe13]

whats up everyone
I'm looking to start road racing this year. I'm at the point where I want to pull my motor ( gsr bottom end b16 head. My goal is to make a bullet proof motor that can take a 50 or 75 dry shot all day and on stock sleeves. I know it won't be cheap just want to know what to do: machine work, parts, who can tune it right . I'd greatly appreciate facts here not opinions. I know ill probably run s300 with coil packs and a nitrous window switch. Also would like to meet these demands on pump gas or e85 I really don't know much about the e85 though. This will be going into a 93eg also. As of this point I have no horse power demands as I don't want to seem simple minded for not knowing what to expect. An again this is a road race car not a drag car so I need solid useable power through the rpm range as well as good part throttle performance.

Thank you all
Joe :smoke:

[Hellsinki]

IMHO if you're only going to run 50-75 shot (wet nitrous), you don't need to build the motor. In fact you need nothing but remove the catalytic converter (it won't last long).

There are a couple of confusing things going on here. If you want useable power through the rpm range, then you don't need nitrous. Nitrous is engaged at WOT only. If you want wide rpm-range gains you might look into supercharging, or turbo.

Also, IMHO road racing and nitrous don't seem to make much sense. You'll kill a 10lb bottle so quick, there's almost no point. To me nitrous is more appropriate for drag racing, or street racing.

Why do you want to do a dry shot?

Just asking.

[dragoonjoe13]

To create cheap torque. Ur right nitrous is engaged at wot however rpm s don't determine engagement the pedal does. So it will work ok given the nitrous window switch or whatever so nitrous engages at 2800 rpm and up to prevent damage or bogging from low rpm engagement. I just want to know specifics and tricks for the build mostly in trusted in what brand: cams, pistons, exc. I'm pretty smart with cars I just want specifics for b series builds

[C.R.A.Y.]

To create cheap torque. Ur right nitrous is engaged at wot however rpm s don't determine engagement the pedal does. So it will work ok given the nitrous window switch or whatever so nitrous engages at 2800 rpm and up to prevent damage or bogging from low rpm engagement. I just want to know specifics and tricks for the build mostly in trusted in what brand: cams, pistons, exc. I'm pretty smart with cars I just want specifics for b series builds

everyone is going to have their own opinions. hop on this thing called the internet and compare dyno graphs of different setups and make an educated purchase.

[Hellsinki]

realistically though there's no need to touch the motor if you're only running 50-75 shot.

If you're hell bent on building the motor, here's what I've used in the past:

On my current motor I'm running the following brands

Manley pistons
Manley rods
ACL bearings
Cometic head gasket
ARP studs
Supertech block guard welded in

On my last build, I ran
CP pistons
Eagle rods
Honda bearings
stock head gasket
ARP studs

I've built dozens of motors for other people from Subarus, Mitsus to Nissans, Hondas mostly and usually the customer has an idea of what brands they like. CP, Eagle, Manley, ACL are all great companies who IMHO do a great job.

Like CRAY said though, there are a TON of manufacturers out there

(not advertising, I do not work on other peoples' cars anymore.. done with that chapter..lol)

[AZ_CIVIC]

My GSR block setup:

Sent Block to Golden Eagle had them do a closed deck sleeve set up with 84mm bore.
Sent them my CP 9:1 Compression Pistons and had them get the block set up for E85
Golden Eagle also O-ringed the block
Manley Turbo Tuff 1000WHP rods
ACL bearings
Stock GSR polished crank
Block was also bead blasted so it looks brand new/ then had Aaron do his magic putting it together.

If your looking for a bullet proof block above is a pretty good start.

[J240sx]

Why would you need a COP setup? Also just a mild B series High compression build would do the job. A friend of mine in FL, Dave Pflugi had a Integra with A Type R K swap and he ran with the faster crowd in road racing. Reliable and same power as a mild built B

[dragoonjoe13]

Thanks guys I guess I can handle it, I just wanted to
Make sure I wasn't missing anything. And I'll run COP to tune more finely and what has to be done to the block if u want to run e85?

[Dead Bird]

Better make sure whatever associations you'll be road racing with allow the use of nitrous oxide. From what I can remember, most say it's an absolute no-no.

Get a rotrex

[Jason.AZ1]

Just do a b20-V
B20 block with Rs Machine pistons with a gsr head Ctr cams and some nice bolt ons and get tuned with a b16 trans.
Go to the track and have fun with your car. Then once your comfortable in your car. Build from there.
Suspension, or a larger n/a set up or FI set up. However like a lot of the guys who do go out and road race.
Almost all of them will tell you just to go out there with what you have and have fun learn with what you got and then do little upgrades here and there.

[Broskiballa]

b17 or go home.