Drive Shafts and swap brakes questions

[BlackStarPenguin]

ok i have a 94 accord with over 130,000 miles on it, and me and my dad were thinking about replacing the drive safts and cv joints and also along with that swap out the brakes and put in 96-97 v6 accords brakes for more stopping power,

do you guys any sugestions on where me and my dad can find some brakes and when i say brakes i mean everything

[DJ Hookid]

Honda dealership

[BlackStarPenguin]

is the best way for the brakes

[DJ Hookid]

Look online, theres some website that give you discount prices on oem parts. Ill look one up for you cant think of the names yet...

[BlackStarPenguin]

i know what your talking about now thx man

[BlackStarPenguin]

i know this is off topic have any of you guys deal with vtec controllers and is it worth getting it even if im ordering an aem ems with wide band o2 senor

[bob12345]

i know this is off topic have any of you guys deal with vtec controllers and is it worth getting it even if im ordering an aem ems with wide band o2 senor

EMS has that feature built in.

[BlackStarPenguin]

well i know the o2 senor is built in but im saying is the vtec controller built in also or no

[bob12345]

well i know the o2 senor is built in but im saying is the vtec controller built in also or no

yes, it is. You can actually program EMS to control nearly anything with known voltage control parameters. For most people EMS is actually serious overkill, but to each his own.

[BlackStarPenguin]

ok so its like an add on, awesome, i think the ems is a good thing, you can map your fuel and when your on the throttle hard it removes the red limiter, so the ems to me is a good thing but thats just me

[I CRUSH HONDAS]

Penny Pincher has the big 11 inch rotors and loaded calipers for under 150$ Although for a little more BAP has OEM quality parts. Tell them its for a EX Wagon of the same year and you will get the four lugs rotors. Look for a little bit of grinding to get rotor clearance equall. THis is by far the best upgrade Ive done on my Accord. Go for ceramic pads and stock rotors if you can controll yourself. Braided steel lines are the next step. I also recomend rebuilding your factory axles. Spend the money you save on good tires.

[BlackStarPenguin]

well thats what my dad is going to do
even though its my car he pays for the upgrades, but yeah he is going to get the v6 rotors and everything else i mean we already did the steel braided lines and drill and slotted rotors its just the hub on the v6 is behind the rotors so easier to change out

but yeah we planning to get racing drive shafts

[Agent Smith]

autozone axles ftw! free replacement yo! don't replace it unless you break it...

and use accordinglydone.com ;) my all time favorite...

[BlackStarPenguin]

well i think they are going bad

so we are replace them with racing drive shafts for about 500 bucks

[Agent Smith]

well i think they are going bad

so we are replace them with racing drive shafts for about 500 bucks

seems like a complete waste of money in my opinion....

there are two ways axles ""go bad" either
a) they tear a cv boot (which you can also just repair the cv boot, but usually easier just to swap out the axle) or
b) the axle is actually physically/mechanically (loud clicking noises when turning) broken


stock will hold up just fine, it's not like your making 300+hp & even then vatozone to the rescue.

if your still in the planning stages, read up, the common mis-conceptions of "axles" being the biggest weak point of all FWD's isn't always true especially with f & h-series engine...

if there is one thing I know better than ANY other car it's accords. LMK if you need swap manual or print out on anything odds are I have it, even 1000+ page threads on honda-tech/accordinglydone/cb7tuner/accordtuner ect ect I literally have a shelf full of just accord info/manuals/reference guides.

[BlackStarPenguin]

true but i wish i was pushing 300+ lol

and you do bring up a point that its a waste of money to do it

but its better to be perpare just in case because i always drive it hard and my dads wants to spend to piss off my mom but thats just lol

i think the cv joints are going bad

[BlackStarPenguin]

one question

is there such thing as carbon fiber drive shafts??

[Mike]

^ Got I hope not.

That shit would shatter at the first pot hole.

hondapartsdeals.com is the website that offers discounted OEM parts.

[BlackStarPenguin]

well yeah and the only reason i was wondering cuz my friend told me to order them but i

was no we live in arizona i doubt they would last long in extrmem heat

[Agent Smith]

true but i wish i was pushing 300+ lol

and you do bring up a point that its a waste of money to do it

but its better to be perpare just in case because i always drive it hard and my dads wants to spend to piss off my mom but thats just lol

i think the cv joints are going bad

driving the car "hard" isn't as bad of a thing as people think, especially on an f22, those things are fucking stout. there is no reason why f22's can't go 300k miles it's been done time & time again without ever even replacing a head gasket or anything major. usually what kills them is people not changing timing belts or not doing regular maintenance. anyways back on topic. axles... driving your car hard is obviously going to put more stress & power through them but they are built to withstand that abuse, so it doesn't really matter, eithere they are bad or they aren't, there is no in between... odds are your axles are perfectly fine unless there is grease leaking from a cv boot or it's broken in half or there is an extremely large crack in the metal... don't waste taht $500 on axles, put it into peices that actually make a difference like suspension or the engine... sorry to ramble.

[BlackStarPenguin]

lol honestly all that is done the suspension
we kyb shocks ground control springs
sway bars and strut bars
new aem ecu ems is comming in too

[Agent Smith]

lol honestly all that is done the suspension
we kyb shocks ground control springs
sway bars and strut bars
new aem ecu ems is comming in too
ENGINE... tuning is obviously an essential requirement with any honda & any build, but what have you done for power? what engine do you have f22b1 or f22b2? are you going to just keep it stock? cam regrids are avlb through kteller that are dyno proven power on the b1... toss in some FI regardless of form will be much more fun.. point & case there is no point in wasting money in my opinion.

[BlackStarPenguin]

oh i know what you mean the car has i/h/e new plug wires, underdrive pulley, 13lb fly wheel, lvl 1 racing clutch short throw shifter and glass pack, thats about it engine

yeah i have been planning to get new cams and i was thinking boring it out .2 over and getting high compression pistons is that a good idea

[BlackStarPenguin]

and its a F22b1

[Agent Smith]

oh i know what you mean the car has i/h/e new plug wires, underdrive pulley, 13lb fly wheel, lvl 1 racing clutch short throw shifter and glass pack, thats about it engine

yeah i have been planning to get new cams and i was thinking boring it out .2 over and getting high compression pistons is that a good idea
#1) you have a sohc SINGLE OVER HEAD CAM (no "s" there is only one cam).
#2) the parts you've listed are fine, good basic bolt on parts, but nothing that has even involved opening the valve cover... you haven't actually touched the enigne, only free'd up power that it's already making, which is good.
#3)doesn't sound like your on any set budget so fuck yeah build that engine!!!!!!!!!!!!! lol, personally on an f22 I wouldn't waste the money on a high compression build, because I'd go with an h22 if I wanted an f/h-series n/a build, but there are a few people that have done higher compression f22 builds (I wouldn't go higher than 10:1 if your turbo'ing & if your using n20, then fuck it go all out for a few runs & enjoy more n/a power when your not using the bottle! lol.)... the f22b1 STOCK is a damn decent engine to boost, there are numerous set ups out there making 300+hp & 320+ ft/lbs of tq with under 10lbs of boost on STOCK f22b1's!


anyways if your serious about making some power, you need to decide how you what to build it, if you want to stay naturally aspirated or if your going to become a boost addict like myself. & also decide if your going to stick with your f22 or go h23/h22... or one of my other favorites f22 with an h22 head(referred to as a g-series hybrid), seriously & with a semi decent budget you could build one right & make more tq than an h22 can dream of with horsepower to match (at least in the rev range of the f22) & you'd still have an uberlow compression ratio & a great flowing head.... aka perfect boost candidate... which mean even more power at the same boost rates.... ahahaha wow I ramble... lol, accords are fun with a lot of different options... read up... use the following sites too & they will help a lot, if you haven't already used them:
accordinglydone.com
accurdtuner.com
cb7tuner.com
& of course honda-tech.com
and its a F22b1
one of my favorite underrated engines in the honda world & oh yeah, the best part, they are dirt cheap!!!




again there are TONS of options you can choose for an accord build...

[Agent Smith]

also pm Schmuckingham on AD I believe I saw pieces of some of his builds for sale on honda-tech a few weeks ago... turbo & engine build shit... idk if he's still selling stuff or wht, but I'd look into it if your serious about an f22 build.

[BlackStarPenguin]

i was thinking of building the f22 then when im fully done get an h23 and build that up for n/a engine then swap that in the accord but also getting a civic sedan and putting f22 in that civic but its going to have to wait cuz of student loans

[Agent Smith]

lol... well if your just going to "build" the f22... boost it, & if your anti forced induction, then a mild f22b1 build would give you some power but nothing like FI would on that engine.

[BlackStarPenguin]

i know and honestly im not against it but i never drove a boosted car and im fine whatever the car make i was going to weight reduction next

it just i would like the car to make 300k miles with no problems along the way

[BlackStarPenguin]

now is boring out good for the engine or no

[Agent Smith]

#1, go dirve a boosted car. lol...

#2, boring out the f22 basically that's increasing your displacement... it'd require a FULL engine rebuild.. kind of a waste on an f22 in my opinion... better off figuring out what kind of numbers your realisitaclly wanting to get & then go from there... set your goals & then figure out how your going to get there & then do it!

[BlackStarPenguin]

well i want 250 to 300 horse power to the wheels

[Agent Smith]

well i want 250 to 300 horse power to the wheels
out of the f22? if so... boost is your new found best friend... do a compression test & leakdown test on your motor as is right now, you should have no problem boosting your stock f22b1 to get those numbers without problems. I would however get a set of ARP head stuts :) & tq down a little more than oe as to prevent head lift under higher boost loads.

go find the "how to turbo your accord" thread on AD... read up, If I remember correctly that covers the basics pretty well...

also go buy corky bell's book "maximum boost" & READ READ READ until you actually understand it, and then use what you've applied to determine what turbo you want :)

[BlackStarPenguin]

thx man i read into turbos and superchargers

[BlackStarPenguin]

i just got the book and it seems interesting another can i keep the car looking stock with a turbo kit

[Agent Smith]

i just got the book and it seems interesting another can i keep the car looking stock with a turbo kit

of course you can!!! :) sleeper turbo 5th gen f22b1 accord.... I'm starting to like you already! l :clap: lol.

[BlackStarPenguin]

well i was thinking cuz i was going to h23 in the accord and put the f22b1 in a civic sedan i might turbo the civic first then turbo the accord last so i can get the hang of maintaining turbos :blunt:

[BlackStarPenguin]

another thing has anyone delt with water injection in their cars before

[owequitit]

A couple of observations.

1) Autozone axles are crap. Complete and utter garbage. Every autozone CV boot I have ever dealt with lasted less than 25,000 miles.

I have never had an OEM Honda boot fail in LESS than 75,000 miles.

I also usually end up paying less for Honda boots than what Autozone wants for theirs.

NAPA axles seem to be in between the 2. Not as good as Honda, but they seem to routinely last longer than Autozone. That could be a viable option if you wanted.

As far as NA HP in an F22, I think I would recommend boost if you are looking for 250-300.

The F22A from the 4th gen (1990-1993) Accord has a head that will support 300+ WHP, but with its more restrictive intake and exhaust ports, the F22B1, probably won't flow as well.

I am also not sure about the camshaft lift capabilities of the F22B1 head, but the F22A head will give you almost a full inch of lift, with just a spring and retainer replacement.

You also need to do a compression and leakdown test to determine the health of your engine.

Just a couple notes about boosting the F22.

1) Tuning is everything. Pinch pennies here or hire someone who isn't VERY good at what they do, and you may as well just call it a day.

2) The stock F22 block routinely handles 8-10lbs of boost, even on some engines that are starting at or near 200K miles.

Usually, the weakest point is the pistons. The ring landings aren't very strong, so usually, this is the most common failure on these.

The rods typically are next, although usually the pistons go first.

[BlackStarPenguin]

well im reading a book by corky bell "maxium boost" see the engine now has 130k miles and the thing their are driveshafts cheaper about $200, but they are only rated for 200 hp
and at the crank the car is 178

i do love turbos but i was never grown up around them only n/a thats why im going to swap the f22 with the h23 different blocks but yet uses the same mounts and put f22 in a civic sedan and i know some people say it is dumb to put that engine in a civic but its already making 143 hp and 140 tq to the wheels, and putting it in a civic sedan which 2000 pounds lighter would gain some power right?

[Agent Smith]

A couple of observations.

1) Autozone axles are crap. Complete and utter garbage. Every autozone CV boot I have ever dealt with lasted less than 25,000 miles.

I have never had an OEM Honda boot fail in LESS than 75,000 miles.

I also usually end up paying less for Honda boots than what Autozone wants for theirs.

NAPA axles seem to be in between the 2. Not as good as Honda, but they seem to routinely last longer than Autozone. That could be a viable option if you wanted.

As far as NA HP in an F22, I think I would recommend boost if you are looking for 250-300.

The F22A from the 4th gen (1990-1993) Accord has a head that will support 300+ WHP, but with its more restrictive intake and exhaust ports, the F22B1, probably won't flow as well.

I am also not sure about the camshaft lift capabilities of the F22B1 head, but the F22A head will give you almost a full inch of lift, with just a spring and retainer replacement.

You also need to do a compression and leakdown test to determine the health of your engine.

Just a couple notes about boosting the F22.

1) Tuning is everything. Pinch pennies here or hire someone who isn't VERY good at what they do, and you may as well just call it a day.

2) The stock F22 block routinely handles 8-10lbs of boost, even on some engines that are starting at or near 200K miles.

Usually, the weakest point is the pistons. The ring landings aren't very strong, so usually, this is the most common failure on these.

The rods typically are next, although usually the pistons go first.
scott knows his shit. as for the axles... honestly I've never had a problem with autozone axles... had one set last me 40k on my old accord & then they replaced them for free because the cv boots tore, personally I don't mind replacing them every 40k if it's free anyways & likely majority of cars I own I don't own for that long...

as for the A head, there is no question that is definitely has more potential to flow better than a b1, but are you even going to do major head work? if the goal is 300hp then you can do that on either b1 or ax head without mods, but stock flow wise if i recall correctly the b1 flows better... not the intake mani though... either way the b1 has vtec yo! lol. jk. lol.
well im reading a book by corky bell "maxium boost" see the engine now has 130k miles and the thing their are driveshafts cheaper about $200, but they are only rated for 200 hp
and at the crank the car is 178

i do love turbos but i was never grown up around them only n/a thats why im going to swap the f22 with the h23 different blocks but yet uses the same mounts and put f22 in a civic sedan and i know some people say it is dumb to put that engine in a civic but its already making 143 hp and 140 tq to the wheels, and putting it in a civic sedan which 2000 pounds lighter would gain some power right?
where & how are you getting this "178 @ the crank" #?

and yeah I wouldn't put an f/h in a civic, but that's just me, imo there are better engines matches with a civic chassis for better balance. but again I won't & don't own a civic... & again where are you getting the 143 & 140 #'s? did you dyno test your car & get that? if so damn decent #'s for bolt ons on an f22b1... odd that the tq is not higher though...

also doa leakdown/compression test if your going to just boost the stock f22 instead of a build+boost... boosting a GOOD stock f22 is much cheaper for the same power...

[owequitit]

The F22B1 head flows better stock, but only because Honda put such a small cam in the F22A.

With just a cam mild cam upgrade, you can easily be looking at an additional 20WHP.

If you were to put an H23 intake manifold on there, or an F22A6 intake manifold on there with an H22 plenum and TB, then that helps even more.

But that is neither here nor there.

As far as putting the F22 into a Civic, it can be done, but it won't increase your HP.

It will however improve your power to weight ratio, since the Civic weighs less. That will have the same effect as increasing your power.

Also, realistically, with an F22B1, you would be lucky to have 125WHP with bolt ons. With an auto tranny, they typically put out about 105-110WHP.

[BlackStarPenguin]

i have the dyno sheets 143 to the wheels 143x1.25= hp to the crank and i got my dyno at dyno comp

[BlackStarPenguin]

and techanically a usdm f22b1 to the crank hp is 145 correct

[BlackStarPenguin]

cuz all i want to do is build two cars for time and attacks and still have them be both dd and weekend warriors

[owequitit]

i have the dyno sheets 143 to the wheels 143x1.25= hp to the crank and i got my dyno at dyno comp

Please post dyno sheets, so we can see. That is pretty impressive, if it mostly just bolt ons!

What mods did you say you have?

Also, 20% drivetrain loss on a FWD auto Honda is probably more realistic, so that will change your crank HP a little bit.

And yes. 145 HP to the crank is the correct stock number.

[BlackStarPenguin]

its a stick and i/h/e, underdrive pulley's , 13 lb fly wheel, lvl one racing clutch, glass pack, off board coil pack, new sparks plugs, short throw shifter, thats it and once i get home i post my dynos and dyno comp is real good cuz they can do all wheel drive cars too

and i will try to get pic up on it too

[BlackStarPenguin]

one question what is a good way to improve the flow of the engine?

[owequitit]

its a stick and i/h/e, underdrive pulley's , 13 lb fly wheel, lvl one racing clutch, glass pack, off board coil pack, new sparks plugs, short throw shifter, thats it and once i get home i post my dynos and dyno comp is real good cuz they can do all wheel drive cars too

and i will try to get pic up on it too

That would be sweet, I would appreciate it! :tits:

What brand header do you have, and what size exhaust?

I suppose the pulleys and the flywheel make quite a bit of difference too.

As far as improving the flow, you basically need to allow it to pump air more easily.

Less restrictive Intake and intake manifold, less restrictive head, larger cam, less restrictive exhaust etc. And the correct tuning to go with it of course.

Or, you can boost it.

[BlackStarPenguin]

im lil sketchy about boosting a car that has over 130k miles on the engine, i know boosting is fun, and my dad taught me everything to take care of it,

the intake is aem v2 short ram, header DC, i think the exhaust is a good size, and there is a glass pack on it, but once the ecu ems is in my dad had a high cat that he is going to put back on

the pulleys really don't give that much hp, but what it does is makes it so you can accellerate and deaccellerate faster thats all

[BlackStarPenguin]

scott knows his shit. as for the axles... honestly I've never had a problem with autozone axles... had one set last me 40k on my old accord & then they replaced them for free because the cv boots tore, personally I don't mind replacing them every 40k if it's free anyways & likely majority of cars I own I don't own for that long...

as for the A head, there is no question that is definitely has more potential to flow better than a b1, but are you even going to do major head work? if the goal is 300hp then you can do that on either b1 or ax head without mods, but stock flow wise if i recall correctly the b1 flows better... not the intake mani though... either way the b1 has vtec yo! lol. jk. lol.

where & how are you getting this "178 @ the crank" #?

and yeah I wouldn't put an f/h in a civic, but that's just me, imo there are better engines matches with a civic chassis for better balance. but again I won't & don't own a civic... & again where are you getting the 143 & 140 #'s? did you dyno test your car & get that? if so damn decent #'s for bolt ons on an f22b1... odd that the tq is not higher though...

also doa leakdown/compression test if your going to just boost the stock f22 instead of a build+boost... boosting a GOOD stock f22 is much cheaper for the same power...

yeah i got it dynoed at dyno comp

[BlackStarPenguin]

That would be sweet, I would appreciate it! :tits:

What brand header do you have, and what size exhaust?

I suppose the pulleys and the flywheel make quite a bit of difference too.

As far as improving the flow, you basically need to allow it to pump air more easily.

Less restrictive Intake and intake manifold, less restrictive head, larger cam, less restrictive exhaust etc. And the correct tuning to go with it of course.

Or, you can boost it.

thats what my was thinking too, build it up so it draws more air in, and pushes more out
and i thinking of replacing the throttle body
if i still n/a i might rebuild the f22 because all i want is a good road car, right now it turns really good right now

[BlackStarPenguin]

the only thing that is really broken is the front engine mount lol its been like i think for a couple of years but we are going to replace those with oem also and get new inserts

[owequitit]

the only thing that is really broken is the front engine mount lol its been like i think for a couple of years but we are going to replace those with oem also and get new inserts

Be careful with which inserts. IMO, the prothane ones for our cars are crap. They are poly, but they are the really hard stuff, that is more like plastic.

The make the car vibrate like an SOB.

Personally, I would rather replace the mounts more often.

[Agent Smith]

I still want dyno sheets. & seriously compression test that engine... sounds like it should make a perfect candidate for boost imo...

[owequitit]

I still want dyno sheets.

X2

[BlackStarPenguin]

i will try to get them up tomorrow

exhaust piping= 2.5 from the header
3 at the end

[BlackStarPenguin]

i won't lie i will get them up tomorrow

[BlackStarPenguin]

here my dyno of my car and my a/f ration also

[BlackStarPenguin]

also my friend recorded the dyno also

can't wait till that highflow cat and the ecu are on

[owequitit]

Sweet.

What kind of dyno do they have?

[Agent Smith]

also my friend recorded the dyno also

can't wait till that highflow cat and the ecu are on
some decent numbers, I love healthy f22's... anyways, I can't say this enough, get a compression test done!!!! hell I'll do it for free if you come to me, I'm curious to see how healthy this engine really is.

lol... & screw a high flow cat, just get a test pipe :) more power & better flow! lol. and what ecu are you getting & why? lol.

[BlackStarPenguin]

the aem ems can map your fuel and how its progressing, the thing i love is that if you on it full throttle no red limiter, but when your driving normally it puts it back, also you can hook lets say after a drag and see how your engine was running, like was it rich or lean

oh trust me man i was think testpipe my dad calls it that cuz we had it on before and man it was like an f1 car loud and awesome!!!!

[BlackStarPenguin]

Sweet.

What kind of dyno do they have?

Dynocomp is in scottsdale lol....LLLLLLOOOOONNNNNNGGGGGGG drive, but they put your car on rollers and they can adjust the speed of the rollers to get the most power out of your car, and they can do 1/4 mile simulations, and if you have an evo and sube, they are the only ones that can dyno all wheel drive cars

[BlackStarPenguin]

some decent numbers, I love healthy f22's... anyways, I can't say this enough, get a compression test done!!!! hell I'll do it for free if you come to me, I'm curious to see how healthy this engine really is.

lol... & screw a high flow cat, just get a test pipe :) more power & better flow! lol. and what ecu are you getting & why? lol.

here is what the aem ems can do for the engine:



Installs in minutes using Plug & Play technology—no wiring necessary!
Start-up calibrations included
Live help window eases tuning process
Set-up Wizard creates a custom base map for your car
System is fully enabled—Never pay for upgrades!
Free software updates on aempower.com
Uses all the factory sensors
Runs on Windows™ compatible software
Fuel table automapping
Programmable traction control
Onboard 512kb datalogger
Up to 10 cylinder sequential fuel injection
16 general-purpose outputs
7 definable switch inputs
Electronic boost control
Soft cut rev limiters
Two step launch control
Wet or dry nitrous control
Definable knock control
Full idle control
4 EGT inputs with fuel control
16/32 hybrid high speed processor

[Agent Smith]

lol.... I know all about aem ems... there are other cheaper alternatives that I like better, that is all :) so long as it's actually tuned properly, more power to ya!

[BlackStarPenguin]

yeah it does i like cuz i can store the data on to my laptop

do you have a shop?

[Agent Smith]

yeah it does i like cuz i can store the data on to my laptop

do you have a shop?
nope, only a home garage that sees more cars than some shops... lol.

[BlackStarPenguin]

lol thats cool as long as you don't steal lol cuz it has been stolen out of my drive way


and how does it take do the compression test on my engine

[Agent Smith]

lol thats cool as long as you don't steal lol cuz it has been stolen out of my drive way


and how does it take do the compression test on my engine

http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showArticle.asp?ArticleID=1086

it's easy as pie :)

and you come to me unless your local in tempe/gilbert (east side) & no I don't steal, read my posts, look at my feedback, I despise thieves with a passion & I try and be as upfront & honest as possible.

[BlackStarPenguin]

i would go to you but im in phoenix lol


but i do go past east tempe on my way to work all the time lol

[owequitit]

No offense or anything but test pipes are dumb.

With a full exhaust system, they do very little.

With a decent high flow cat, you can accomplish the same amount of power, and you aren't needlessly stinking people out, and destroying the already iffy Phoenix air quality.

Besides, you won't have to worry about emissions testing either.

[BlackStarPenguin]

No offense or anything but test pipes are dumb.

With a full exhaust system, they do very little.

With a decent high flow cat, you can accomplish the same amount of power, and you aren't needlessly stinking people out, and destroying the already iffy Phoenix air quality.

Besides, you won't have to worry about emissions testing either.

actually when my dad had the high flow cat on the car it sound awesome but he couldn't get past emissions cuz of the O2 senor

[Agent Smith]

No offense or anything but test pipes are dumb.

With a full exhaust system, they do very little.

With a decent high flow cat, you can accomplish the same amount of power, and you aren't needlessly stinking people out, and destroying the already iffy Phoenix air quality.

Besides, you won't have to worry about emissions testing either.

agreed, but $20 vs. $200... I'll take a test pipe for $20. I'm a cheap bastard. & as for emissions, according to ADOT I live in Prescott up by you! lol.

[BlackStarPenguin]

i always wanted to speed up to prescott

[owequitit]

agreed, but $20 vs. $200... I'll take a test pipe for $20. I'm a cheap bastard. & as for emissions, according to ADOT I live in Prescott up by you! lol.

I just paid $40 for a 2.5" Magnaflow. Even when I have the flanges welded on it, it will be well less than $100.

Still worth it IMO.

And don't get caught without a cat...

[BlackStarPenguin]

lol we have the cat already sitting on the side of the house :bananaman:

[BlackStarPenguin]

i got a question is it better to do an engine swap at your house or go to a shop??

[Agent Smith]

i got a question is it better to do an engine swap at your house or go to a shop??
lol.... same results, it's just a matter of do you want to do the work or do you want to pay someone else to do the work...

[BlackStarPenguin]

can i do a remote setup for the turbo so its not around the heat of the engine??

[Agent Smith]

can i do a remote setup for the turbo so its not around the heat of the engine??
lol.... you can do anything with $$$.... personally I think that's a big waste or money & retarded. lol.

[BlackStarPenguin]

oh ok well i was just wondering but if i do turbo it and i might for the intercooler i might go with air/water since its so hot here

[Agent Smith]

oh ok well i was just wondering but if i do turbo it and i might for the intercooler i might go with air/water since its so hot here
lol. u funny.

[BlackStarPenguin]

lol why is that hey man im reading the book lol

[Agent Smith]

lol why is that hey man im reading the book lol
I'm glad your reading the book, definately keep at it... but if you intend on driving the car for any real length of time & are to save $$ I'd still go with an air-air intercooler, some water-air intercoolers are still fully functional, but ehh... not worth the hassle imo.

[BlackStarPenguin]

well im point is during the summer my turbo would run correctly, correct

and is there any other books on turbos??

[Agent Smith]

well im point is during the summer my turbo would run correctly, correct

and is there any other books on turbos??

lol, everything is in tuning, yes you can run a turbo in the middle of 120 degree heated az weather, I've done it, it's ok :) that;s what tuning is for! and as for other books, there's tons, but to me that is my turbo bible, lol. read up on accordinglydone.com through old post on various turbo builds & don't be afraid to pm people asking the what's and how's & what they would have changed if they were to do it again...

[BlackStarPenguin]

ok well my dad had the car already go through the compression test he told 190 all the way accross the board

[Agent Smith]

boost that bitch!!!!!!!!!!!!

[BlackStarPenguin]

im still thinking lol but im going to do that test again to make sure lol