Head work

[bmxican]

Quick question, wondering if you go FI, say 350-425whp, what is some head work you should expect to rebuild/replace if you are boosting a stock GSR. 80k is on the gsr.

[taggart_lumpy]

if any valve springs and retainers just for piece of mind but in all honesty you really dont need to do anything to the head for those numbers

[I Hate Import Cars]

ya depending on your cam choice, I'd just make sure your valvetrain is up to the task of running what those cams are going to throw at it and at whatever RPM you're planning to take this thing to. Other than that, I'd put my money elsewhere on a FI motor first, then once you've milked every bit of power from other places you can, start working the head. Here's why; on FI apps, you're FORCING air through there at a higher rate than the motor could breathe on it's own. So all the gains you can expect from port work in a n/a motor are not going to show up a prevelently on a FI app. In other words, you don't need it. It's already being forced through. Does that make any sense? I'm too fucking tires. I gotta go to bed...

[I Hate Import Cars]

tires=tired. I'm outta here. my bed's calling my name...

[JdmNateGsr]

SUSPENSION! hp isnt that good without bad ass suspension

[HEADSHOT]

yeah dude. honda heads are good for about 500 or more hp stock.

[bmxican]

Good to hear. Thanks for the good info.

[Motorhead]

The air isn't being forced in at a faster rate. As a matter of fact, charge velocity is lower on force inducted motors than on normally aspirated motors due to quite a few reasons (the poor pressure ratios between manifolds, diffusing design of the turbo charger discharge,...). The reason you see boost is because air is denser, not because it's moving faster.

There is always gains to be had from doing head work, no matter what type of induction you have; it makes your engine work more efficiently.

With your power goals, you can get away with the stock head.

[thaiphob]

i had my bottom end build and didnt plan on doing any head work at all. but just to play it safe i went with a full skunk2 valve train an had a valve job done to the head. wasn't necessary but it wont hurt either.

[bmxican]

for bottom end, just pistons and rods.

[dougvtect]

I ran built, sleeved bottom end with a GSR head and it was tuned on a Dynopack to around 360 or 365whp on 15.6psi.

But changing pistons from 8.5:1 to 9:1 (with HG was at about 8.8:1), boring from 84.5 to 85, moving from stock gsr intake to skunk 2, and fully building the head with Supertech and a 3 angle w/ P&P was able to produce 405whp on same PSI (15.6)

[GNU]

yeah honda heads are bomb from the factory. If i were youd id go this route its mild but will see some nice gains when turboed. ITR/CTR cams, cam gears to play with the overlap, Springs and retainers so your not going to expierience valve float and possibly ruin everything youve worked hard for.

[allmotorgsr]

yeah honda heads are bomb from the factory. If i were youd id go this route its mild but will see some nice gains when turboed. ITR/CTR cams, cam gears to play with the overlap, Springs and retainers so your not going to expierience valve float and possibly ruin everything youve worked hard for.

x2, and of course... forged pistons and rods....
unless shes gonna be on race gas or methanol... in which case...
get a BOMB tune!:blunt: