fuel delivery problem....

[justanls]

its a 90 teg ls, has a b16a in it, also has vafc2....

here goes...

a few months ago, it started acting up. bogging down when i would push on the gas more than 25%. it wouldnt rev above 2500 rpms, and would staul if i didnt give it a little gas. eventually it just stopped running period.

so i changed the fuel filter, fuel pump, and had the gas tank hot tanked. i just put the new filter in today. the old fuel filter was only pushing about 2 psi if that at the tank.

car started fine, then i drove it about 1/8th of a mile fine. turned around to come home and it started bogging down again if i stepped on the gas. as long as i kept the throttle under 25% it ran fine. would pick up fine, hit vtec fine. then it stauled on me againg and wouldnt rev above 2500 rpms, and will staul again if it doesnt get gas.

the new fule filter is rediculously loud when i turn the key on. i dont think it was this loud the first time i started it. and its loud enough to where i probably would have noticed. its only loud until it builds up pressure.

im going to check the main fuel relay tonight. then maybe get a new TPS. im just wondering if im going in the right direction. im thinking if the fuel relay is good i will just take the fuel pump back tomorrow.

also i was wondering if the main fuel relay is the black 1"x1" relay under the dash, or the 2.5"x1" brown relay.

this car was bought from a guy on aztegs. ravi knows the car and a few others from that site know the car. its pauls old red DA

any help will be appreciated. thanks in advance.

[90civicsi]

with the new filter do you know the psi's on fuel press.?

[*inFamous*]

pauls as in Scoobyz?

If so i'll be happy to take a looksee for free free when i get back back :)

[justanls]

yeah ravi, scoobyz. wish i never bought it...been nothing but problems. you gonna come all the way out to cali to look at my car???? lol....

as for the pressure now...i dont know, but it is definately getting a lot of fuel at the filter.

[crx_family]

Have you checked the distibutor? That sounds Like a distributor problem to me.....rotor messed up or ignitor unit not working correctly or Coil???

[justanls]

yeah, the dizzy is brand new. and im getting spark just fine. it has to be fuel delivery. whether its a sensor or the pump itself, or what i dont know.

[Type - O]

well if your getting fuel at your filter theres not a lot of things inbetween, maybe bad injectors?

[justanls]

well if your getting fuel at your filter theres not a lot of things inbetween, maybe bad injectors?

thats what my buddy said. but as far as i know the injectors have less than 2500 miles on them. it almost seems like its flooding, like with the carborated engines.

could it maybe be the throttle position sensor?

[Type - O]

i say change out your TPS first. my moms car did what you discribed for awhile, then i changed that MAP sensor. everything worked like clockwork after that.

[*inFamous*]

damn cali foo,

hmm i'll ponder and if u want hit me up on AIM

shiftfastaz - aim!

[azcrx]

i had the same problem on my hf motor. bad ecu. wouldnt let me rev over 3500 rpm. check to see if you're throwing any codes. specifically a code 1.

[Type - O]

isnt that an o2 code?

[justanls]

thanks guys. i will hit you up on aim ravi. the ecu is fine. i have tried 2 different ecus.

[justanls]

ok, got it to start again. but its still bogging down under load. its idling just fine. been idling for half an hour now. but when i put it under load it tries to staul.

[BigBlockCrx]

How about remove the vafc and see how it runs without it?

[Type - O]

what about the map sensor?

[justanls]

How about remove the vafc and see how it runs without it?

thats what i was wondering. but i dont know how to do that. never installed or uninstalled a vafc. and i dont have the manuel for it.

i was also wondering about the throttle position sensor. but DAs dont have a TPS. but i have a type r IM and TB. it looks like there is a TPS sitting on the back side of the throttle body. anyone know more about this?

[justanls]

what about the map sensor?

could the map sensor be causing that? what is the map sensor and what does it do.

i have a main relay coming tomorow that my friend is going to let me try without paying for it (she manages carquest here).

also im taking my fuel pump back because it is WAY to loud. going to get a bosch one instead of the napa brand.

[onefst91hatch]

thats what i was wondering. but i dont know how to do that. never installed or uninstalled a vafc. and i dont have the manuel for it.

i was also wondering about the throttle position sensor. but DAs dont have a TPS. but i have a type r IM and TB. it looks like there is a TPS sitting on the back side of the throttle body. anyone know more about this?

all B series use a TPS. i doubt its the TPS anyways. mybe your FPR took a shit?? it could be your map sensor as well. but you can unplug the TPS and your car wil still run. i say its either a bad ground, map sensor, or the dizzy. check your plug wires as well. one way to check your wires is to spray them with windex as that will make them arc out on the closest thing metal and show you where any cracks are!

[justanls]

dizzy is good. ecu isnt throwing any codes. FPR (fuel pressure regulator?) will check my plug wires, but i just replaced them about 6 months ago along with spark plugs.

i followed the wires for the fuel pump this morning, no shorts anywhere. the wires are in good shape. is there a way to bypass the FPR? just to see if that is the problem? i know i could on my old prelude.

thanks again alot guys for all your help. keep it coming. im one of the guys that actually appreciates ALL the input.

and i called acura today, they told me that the DAs dont have TPS.

[onefst91hatch]

dizzy is good. ecu isnt throwing any codes. FPR (fuel pressure regulator?) will check my plug wires, but i just replaced them about 6 months ago along with spark plugs.

i followed the wires for the fuel pump this morning, no shorts anywhere. the wires are in good shape. is there a way to bypass the FPR? just to see if that is the problem? i know i could on my old prelude.

thanks again alot guys for all your help. keep it coming. im one of the guys that actually appreciates ALL the input.

no you cant bypass the FPR. i have a stock one if you want it. pm me!

[justanls]

omg im lost now. i just started it. revs fine. so i backed it out of the driveway fine then went to pull forward and it tried to staul. so i figured what the hell...i backed up the street a couple hundred feet with the gas pedal floored. it was fine. then put it back in first pulled forward and it tried to staul again.

i sprayed the spark plug wired with windex, no arching going on. so they must be fine.

i just realized that i have a hose that is kinking a little bit, but not much. it is a fuel line. it goes from the firewall on the drivers side to the driver side of the fuel rail. i thought it was to the FPR, but isnt the FPR on the passenger side of the fuel rail?

[onefst91hatch]

omg im lost now. i just started it. revs fine. so i backed it out of the driveway fine then went to pull forward and it tried to staul. so i figured what the hell...i backed up the street a couple hundred feet with the gas pedal floored. it was fine. then put it back in first pulled forward and it tried to staul again.

i sprayed the spark plug wired with windex, no arching going on. so they must be fine.

i just realized that i have a hose that is kinking a little bit, but not much. it is a fuel line. it goes from the firewall on the drivers side to the driver side of the fuel rail. i thought it was to the FPR, but isnt the FPR on the passenger side of the fuel rail?

yes its to the FPR. thats the return fuel line. tighten up the clamp or what ever you need to do to stop that leak and it might run fine!

[justanls]

well i tightened it, there is still a very very small kink in it where it connects to the FPR. and the car is still screwing up.

any idea whats up with it running fine in reverse?

[Type - O]

well i tightened it, there is still a very very small kink in it where it connects to the FPR. and the car is still screwing up.

any idea whats up with it running fine in reverse?

smaller gear ratio, probably less load on the engine. a MAP sensor is the manifold absolute pressure sensor. it basically tells the ecu how much fuel to put into the mixture based on how much air is going through the manifold. bad sensor = bad fuel mixture = bad engine operation

[justanls]

cool, thanks againg everyone, i will check that out. is it the sensore on the intake manifold? and should i get the Map sensor for the type r mani9fold? or for the b16? or for the DA?

[Type - O]

im not sure where it is, i think it is the sensor on the #3 (3rd from the dizzy i think) cylinder intake arm.

[justanls]

thats what i was thinking. anyone have one laying around. i really dont want to pay 250 for a new one if i dont have to.

[Type - O]

ya, did you look on autozone for that shit, thats fucking expensive for a little sensor

[fivesfe]

i skipped threw alot of the post on this.

i would check the settings on a vafc, make sure your not goign rediciulously rich at 2500rpms

[justanls]

its not the fuel relay. i just got a brand new one and tried it. same problem.

fivesfe, it worked fine before, no setting have changed on the vafc.

[BigBlockCrx]

make a visual check of the wiring to and from the vafc

[justanls]

how much pressure should i be putting out at the return line from the FPR?

[1lowtacoma]

I dont see why you would even want to measure that. Have a shop look at the vafc for you or something.

[jdm90civic]

try changing ecu

[justanls]

shops charge way too much...

i checked the timing. its looking like it is 180 degrees off. unless the guy that did the engine put the cam gears on wrong. the up arrow is pointing down and slightly to the right.

i sent ravi some pics. so hopefully he will be able to tell me whats up.

[Type - O]

dude just post the pics here. that doesnt sound right tho, i think they should be pointing up

[Broskiballa]

are you throwing and codes wat soo ever?

guage at fuel filter? might help..

check out that tps man..

you should be getting somewhere between 35psi and 40 psi. thats very close to stock settings, do you have any aftermarket valvetrain componets?

[justanls]

no codes at all. thats what is tripping me out.

the pressure at the filter is fine. also, looking at the valve springs, it looks like the #1 set of valves are closed.

[justanls]

here are the pics.

[justanls]

will a map sensor, TPS, and FPR from a h22 work on my b16? just to see if one of those is the problem?

[Type - O]

ya dude, that shit is way oof. fix ur timing

[onefst91hatch]

ya dude, that shit is way oof. fix ur timing

not tru. it could be right. since your crank rotates twice for every one rotation of the cams. he could just not be set on TDC. pull #1 spark plug and put an extension or screw driveer in the whole and rotate the engine till the piston is at TDC and line up the mark. then check your cams. basicly you cant be 180 out on the cam timing. even if you line the crank up to TDC then did your cams 180 out. what would you be at if you rotated the crank 180 degrees?? perfect timing!

[onefst91hatch]

ya dude, that shit is way oof. fix ur timing

not tru. it could be right. since your crank rotates twice for every one rotation of the cams. he could just not be set on TDC. pull #1 spark plug and put an extension or screw driveer in the whole and rotate the engine till the piston is at TDC and line up the mark. then check your cams. basicly you cant be 180 out on the cam timing. even if you line the crank up to TDC then did your cams 180 out. what would you be at if you rotated the crank 360 degrees?? perfect timing as it takes 720 degrees to make one full cam revolution. right??? i would just det the crank at TDC and re-check it.

[Type - O]

^^^true, but i assumed he was at TDC

[onefst91hatch]

.

[onefst91hatch]

^^^true, but i assumed he was at TDC

well either way. if the crank is lined up and the cams are 180 out. rotate the crank 360 to tdc again and the cams will be lined up. right?? i didnt think about it in my previous post but if that mark on the crank is lined up then it has to be a TDC. but not TDC on the right stroke!!

[Type - O]

i was always told that when you do timing that you always lined up the crank timing mark up with the stationary mark, then you line up your cams. i thought that no mater what your cams and crank lined up with there respective timing marks at the same time. is this not the case?

[onefst91hatch]

i was always told that when you do timing that you always lined up the crank timing mark up with the stationary mark, then you line up your cams. i thought that no mater what your cams and crank lined up with there respective timing marks at the same time. is this not the case?

well yes but only if the crank is on the right stroke. ill explain it more later when you come over. i have an engine on the stand!!

[Type - O]

sweet!

[onefst91hatch]

sweet!

shit im bord just come over right now!! lol beat the traffic!! :clap:

[Type - O]

lol seriously?

[onefst91hatch]

lol seriously?

its up to you bro. im up. i got nothing else to do. if you wanna come right now then just pm me. but dont call cuz the wifes asleep and she will be pissed if she gets woken up! shes gotta be to work at 8 and she didnt go to sleep til like 2 or 3

[BigBlockCrx]

take off dist. cap and make sure rotor is at #1 in the cap to make sure its tdc compression not tdc exhaust

[justanls]

its at TDC, im going to get a map and tps from a local junkyard. if that doesnt work, im taking her in.

thanks again guys, really appreciate the help.