A few questions on a full rebuild.(GSR)

[Acurazor]

Ok here it goes, I have a 95 GSR with 143k on it. Smokes badly(anyone that went on the Globe run can vouch for that haha), burns alot of oil. Oil gets black after like 500 miles after an oil change. Anyway, I've come to the conclusion, I'm going to rebuild instead of buy a new one. A full rebuild, bearings, pistons & rings, oil and water pump, valve seals, valve job, springs and retainers, and any gasket or seal I can find haha.

Number 1, do I have to rebore to 81.5 or can I just rehone? If I have to bore how much does a shop usually charge for that? About how much does a shop charge to shotpeen rods?

Number 2, how do I check for bearing clearences(rod and main)? How do I know what size to order? Which bearings should I get? OEM or aftermarket?

Number 3, I plan on getting a valve job done, but what is the difference between a 3 and 5 angle job? Should I replace the valves themselves?

I have done alot of engine work, plenty swaps, ls/vtec conversions, t-belts etc, just haven't done alot of internal work, especially in the block. So I just need to get a few things clear before I start ordering parts. Plans for this motor are nothing crazy, I think I'm just gonna put JDM ITR pistons in and ITR cams. What kind of HP would that yeild? Anyone have a good idea. I know there are some engine nerds on here that can help me out. Any help at all will be greatly appreciated.:):clap:

[18c]

I think you just need to get a rehoning, but you need to bring in the pistons to get the final hone. I think shot peening is pretty pricy but not quite the price of new eagle rods, i think it may have been around 25 to 35 bucks per?

As far as bearings, you need a really high quality micrometer to measure really accurate clearances, but there are other ways to get a pretty accurate measurement. I use the plastigauge method and then measure the thickness with a caliper.
On the Bottom of your block there will be letter stamps like mines say BBBBB and then on the crank there will be numbers, so mine were 22323. The helms tells you where to find the numbers on the crank and block, but so now the bearings i need are B2, B2, B3, B2, B3. So you look in the helms book and it tells me i need 3 yellows and 2 greens. Heres the thing, aftermarket bearings are usually all honda green standard size. So you will not have the proper clearances if your block calls for anything but green bearings although green is the most common. Acl, king, clevite are all good brands, however the clearance is what is most important here. This is why OEM is the best way to do it.

It is the amount of cuts on the valve seat. A 5 angle is more blended then a 3 angle. A 3 angle should be fine, replacing the valves isnt necessary but you can do it.

I would think putting ITR pistons and cams would have it flowing very similiar to an itr engine.

[Acurazor]

Thanx alot, anyone else have any input? So you your saying probably aroung itr power?

[Acurazor]

Nothing? dang

[Sparkles]

what 18c said is pretty much everything. You won't know alot of stuff before you get in there and look around. If the cylinder walls look good then you'll only need a rehone which is probably the case, but who knows.
Your plan is pretty comprehensive but why do you want to shotpeen the rods? Do you plan on spinning the motor to 10k or something? Otherwise I would (being the cheap bastard that I am) leave the rods alone and spend that money on something else and there is always something else. You could use ARP rod bolts for some extra insurance.
Your valves might need to be replaced if your valve stem seals are leaking like mine were. A couple of my exhaust valves were so coated in burnt oil that I just got some new ones.
Good luck. You're going to have a great time rebuilding this motor.

[ILIKETODRIVE]

ITR cams/pistons in a GSR will put it closer to ITR numbers, but not at/over.

[Sparkles]

I don't know if you've got one of not but go buy a helms service manual and have nearly all of your questions answered.
Its like the bible of your car.

[Acurazor]

Cool thanx guys. Yeah I plan on arp head studs and rod bolts. I want to shotpeen for the same reason as the arp hardware. Just extra insurance. And yeah I wanna be able to hit 9-9.5k if I want to. Simon, why do you say it won't hit R power? Just because of the head cast of what? Isn't the R head a slightly polished pr3 head? What if I port and polish my p72? Maybe get rid of the IAB system and get an s2 IM??

[Sparkles]

Well if you want to rev it to the moon you should go with some other cams; those CTRs are going to peak WAY before 9000 rpm. Hell my skunk2 stage2s peak at 8100 so reving any further than 8500 is pointless. So you should port the head because its just gonna run out of flow at 9500rpm and get an intake manifold to support that.
Anyhoo, I'm not trying to tell you how to build your motor if just sharing my expiriences. Good luck

[Acurazor]

Thanks for the advice. I just wanna go to around 9. anyone know of a set of cams that will make power until 8800-9000?

[18c]

jun 3's or any other really big cam would probably make power up that high but they are race cams and your car will probably have a really lopey idle. Are you looking for a street cam or a race cam?

Ive always been pretty impressed with the quality of Blox stuff, i dont know if you would consider buying their cams, but they are from what i understand copys of various cam profiles but much much cheaper.

[Acurazor]

It's just my dd. So I don't really want a set of race cams, but honestly I love a lopey idle it wouldn't bother me.

[gcboy90]

i thought type r motors revved to 9k all day without problems?

[Acurazor]

i thought type r motors revved to 9k all day without problems?

Yeah but they stop making power before then.

[gcboy90]

yea i figured

[18c]

any specific reason you want to go that high? I mean rpms kill motors. Ive always liked Jun and Toda parts, although i cant tell you the cam profiles of them off the top of my head because all motor isnt really my thing. But also in race cams the powerband is shifted way up so driving around in traffic and stop light to stop light is kind of wierd.