New to Honda Motors..

[Mormon-BuiltEG]

Alright, I've many motors in my time, mainly SBC's. I just bought an 88 crx and a b16 bottom end. Now the bottom end is a runner, however it is knocking.. Haven't pulled it apart to look. Now I wanna build an all motor B16 high compression, I dont believe in using turbos or nitrous to make my car fast. I'm just new to Honda motors, anything I need top take into consideration with my rotating assembly or anything?? I know about gettin it balanced and shit, like I said I've built many motors before.. Any hlep will work!

[innivator99]

wht up hacksaw you got a b16a congrats see u in the streets real soon holla

[Daddy_Digital]

BUMP- help this dude out..would but i dont wanna give the wrong advice

[Mormon-BuiltEG]

wht up hacksaw you got a b16a congrats see u in the streets real soon holla

Haha hell ya man.. This B16a is gonna take a while to build.. but lets just say :0she'll be a little more than stock :0 :upyours: See you at a stoplight soon bro!! hahah

[boostedrex]

It all depends on the cash flow man, if u got it do a stroker kit and have it a 1.8 then just P&P the head then get a crowler head kit then do itbs and your will have a mean all motor car. I had a b16a bored over to 1.8 put itr pistons rods oil and water pump had head p&p & sk2 stage 2 head package and that thing moved for what it had . I did 13.2 and my buddy that got it did 12.5 with traction bars and a pair of MTs

[I Hate Import Cars]

I'll tell you this. I grew up on american motors and building straight drag cars/trucks, and the .2 of a liter that is the difference between a b16 and strokin it to a b18 is HUGE! I built a b16 and figured I'd make up for that .2 else where, and quickly found out a few things. The b16 is GUTLESS! Can be built well, but you will never see the torque that you will from a b18. Another thing to consider is this; you and I are used to SBC and SBF where the motor doesn't even come close to HALF of it's potential in factory trim, so when we do a GOOD port and polish job, get a bet more agressive cam(s) for it, pick up some compression, and make sure it's well balanced and well fed, and we go from a stock 250HP 350 to a 400+HP 350 and we're pleased as piss. With this mentality you will be severely disappointed in your b16 build. I know I was. the reason is this; while Honda's don't run to their MAXIMUM potential from the factory, they get pretty damn close. Honda puts together a hell of a motor, so any improvements you want to see, you're going to pay dearly for. I've SEEN factory Honda cranks take 756 WHP, just being balanced. They are bullet proof. The rods are the weak spot. A good set of forged rods and pistons, and you have a killer bottom end. Also, when you tear it down, check out the way the cylinders are connected to the block. It's only at the bottom. This can cause problems once you get up in the high rev and high HP zone because it allows the cylinders to walk around a bit. If you can afford it, sleeving is probably the best way to cure this problem, but it ain't cheap. If that's too much, you can get a block guard put in there, which basically acts as a girdle between the cylinders and the block. HOWEVER, I will be the first to tell you that because that will restrict coolant flow at the tops of the cylinders, you may have some cooling issues. Mine does, but not bad. If I'm on it pretty hard going up hill for a long time with the AC on, then it starts to get a little hot. But kill the AC til I'm over the hill and she's fine. you just gotta watch it. B16 heads are somewhat restricted in the runners for numbers 1 and 4 due to casting, so if you have it ported, make sure your porter uses a flow bench and matches everything to the highest flowing STOCK runner, because again, unlike SBC/SBF motors, these flow decently stock, so hoggin the shit out of it right outta the gate on an N/A motor is not a good idea. The air will get fat and lazy and then it's over. what else? The stock crank case breather (black box on back of block) is a nightmarish piece of shit that dumps oil vapors straight into the intake mani. get rid of this thing and make your own breather box/catch can. I did on mine. Best thing I ever did for it. These motors tend to build a little more crank case pressure than we're used to because they rev to 9K! there are very good and kinda easy ways to deal with this. PM me if you want more details on that. Get a good management setup, (I recommend Neptune, not only cause it's a kick ass tuning system, but Joe is a kick ass tuner and businessman) and you should be pretty well good to go. I know there's a shit-ton of info there, and I'm sure SOMEONE is going to argue with me, but I'm just giving you my input on what you're doing based on what I've done and having a common background. Hope this helps. PM me with any questions.

[infamous91]

hey new in town i got 200$ i need b18 a1 block asap some one help .

[IntensePower]

I'll tell you this. I grew up on american motors and building straight drag cars/trucks, and the .2 of a liter that is the difference between a b16 and strokin it to a b18 is HUGE! I built a b16 and figured I'd make up for that .2 else where, and quickly found out a few things. The b16 is GUTLESS! Can be built well, but you will never see the torque that you will from a b18. Another thing to consider is this; you and I are used to SBC and SBF where the motor doesn't even come close to HALF of it's potential in factory trim, so when we do a GOOD port and polish job, get a bet more agressive cam(s) for it, pick up some compression, and make sure it's well balanced and well fed, and we go from a stock 250HP 350 to a 400+HP 350 and we're pleased as piss. With this mentality you will be severely disappointed in your b16 build. I know I was. the reason is this; while Honda's don't run to their MAXIMUM potential from the factory, they get pretty damn close. Honda puts together a hell of a motor, so any improvements you want to see, you're going to pay dearly for. I've SEEN factory Honda cranks take 756 WHP, just being balanced. They are bullet proof. The rods are the weak spot. A good set of forged rods and pistons, and you have a killer bottom end. Also, when you tear it down, check out the way the cylinders are connected to the block. It's only at the bottom. This can cause problems once you get up in the high rev and high HP zone because it allows the cylinders to walk around a bit. If you can afford it, sleeving is probably the best way to cure this problem, but it ain't cheap. If that's too much, you can get a block guard put in there, which basically acts as a girdle between the cylinders and the block. HOWEVER, I will be the first to tell you that because that will restrict coolant flow at the tops of the cylinders, you may have some cooling issues. Mine does, but not bad. If I'm on it pretty hard going up hill for a long time with the AC on, then it starts to get a little hot. But kill the AC til I'm over the hill and she's fine. you just gotta watch it. B16 heads are somewhat restricted in the runners for numbers 1 and 4 due to casting, so if you have it ported, make sure your porter uses a flow bench and matches everything to the highest flowing STOCK runner, because again, unlike SBC/SBF motors, these flow decently stock, so hoggin the shit out of it right outta the gate on an N/A motor is not a good idea. The air will get fat and lazy and then it's over. what else? The stock crank case breather (black box on back of block) is a nightmarish piece of shit that dumps oil vapors straight into the intake mani. get rid of this thing and make your own breather box/catch can. I did on mine. Best thing I ever did for it. These motors tend to build a little more crank case pressure than we're used to because they rev to 9K! there are very good and kinda easy ways to deal with this. PM me if you want more details on that. Get a good management setup, (I recommend Neptune, not only cause it's a kick ass tuning system, but Joe is a kick ass tuner and businessman) and you should be pretty well good to go. I know there's a shit-ton of info there, and I'm sure SOMEONE is going to argue with me, but I'm just giving you my input on what you're doing based on what I've done and having a common background. Hope this helps. PM me with any questions.


Dude, run on sentence from hell. There is good info in there but, it gets lost in the punctuation.

[I Hate Import Cars]

Dude, run on sentence from hell. There is good info in there but, it gets lost in the punctuation.

Really? That's kind of a bummer. I usually pride myself on being one of the few people on here that CAN write well! Maybe it shouldn't have been one big PARAGRAPH, but is it THAT poorly written? :( This makes me sad. :(

[Slow_EJ1]

I had a b16a bored over to 1.8 put itr pistons rods oil and water pump had head p&p & sk2 stage 2 head package and that thing moved for what it had . I did 13.2 and my buddy that got it did 12.5 with traction bars and a pair of MTs

Why would you drop the compression with itr pistons when your building an almotor car? And what magic crank did you use to get itr rods to work in a b16 block?

[I Hate Import Cars]

^^^Good call.^^^ And PS, you don't BORE a B16 to get the same displacement as a B18. They both have 81mm bores. Just an FYI.

[Slow_EJ1]

You could but good luck going 84mm on stock sleeves