PDA

View Full Version : Swap Info


auex
11-07-2007, 01:35 PM
This is all in an ep3.

Does anyone have any actual fact/write ups that aren't full of questions or arguing? After checking the plugs in my wife's car I am starting to worry a bit about how long the a3 has left.

I have read every topic that had k24 in it from ephatch. From what I have read is that I probably want the k24a1 out of a crv for upgrade ability. I will also need k-pro and a mount from the crv to install. I also have read that it is recommended to replace the k24 oil pump with a k20.

Also I have read that are issues with using a rh. Are there any issues using a dc shorty and stock/high flow cat?

Anyone have anything to add?

DirtyEP3
11-07-2007, 02:45 PM
i would think with a shorty and a cat some part of the exhaust would have to be extended. due to the deck height of the k24. a a2 oil pump or better i would also, so you can get more revs out the motor without spinnin a rod bearing. you can also get th motor out the accord. i think it is also a a1.

auex
11-07-2007, 03:21 PM
I think the k24a4 comes from the accord/element. If I went that route I would have problems with upgrading to an A2 head in future due to the piston's shape. I would also have to deal with a water/egr issue if I went with the accord. I know Hasport has a adapter plate that goes betwen the head/IM that fixes it.

Is this correct? This is the reason I want to double check what I have read.

EPthree04
11-07-2007, 07:22 PM
ok heres a little info:

-k24a1 can be used with a2 head if you get chain tensioner and oil pump from an a2.
-k24a4 can be used with different pistons and rods. without these the piston will hit the valves on an a2 head.
-k-pro is basically a must if you dont want your car to run like shit and fall out of vtec all the time.
- most headers or exhaust manifolds will work on it if you take the heatshield on the firewall off and the swaybar off or the use of a toda or coupe swaybar. i would just go with a dc race header. it is cheap and if you are swapping and tuning the motor with k-pro might as well tune it with a full length race header. or get one of your choice.

heres a post on ephatch that is pretty straight foward with a k24 swap:

http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?t=127040&highlight=diy+k24

auex
11-07-2007, 08:14 PM
heres a post on ephatch that is pretty straight foward with a k24 swap:

http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?t=127040&highlight=diy+k24

Thanks, I definately bookmarked that link.

If I removed the front sway bar, would my ksport coilovers be good enough to compensate or would I need to get something stiffer to compensate?

Another question I have, is it possible to pass obd2 emissions running Kpro? Specifically the plug in test, not necessarily smogging it.

DirtyEP3
11-07-2007, 11:32 PM
Thanks, I definately bookmarked that link.

If I removed the front sway bar, would my ksport coilovers be good enough to compensate or would I need to get something stiffer to compensate?

Another question I have, is it possible to pass obd2 emissions running Kpro? Specifically the plug in test, not necessarily smogging it.

your obd 2 port still works fine with k-pro. and your obd readiness is good to with k-pro, as for front sway, i would say you probly wont like haveing it off the car. u'll have more body roll up front. but you can run without it, your coilovers a little stiffer setting should compensate a little bit for it.

EPthree04
11-09-2007, 12:23 AM
youll be okay without that front swaybar. the front on full stiff and no swaybar will just have a stock-like bodyroll to it. nothing major

auex
11-09-2007, 12:36 PM
In your opinions, would it be better to buy k24a4 and upgrade the rods/pistons and a2 head or buy the k24a1 and swap the head over and maybe upgrade the pistons? The reason I ask is that I can find the A4 for half the price of the A1. Also there are tons of A4's around and I have only found 1 A1 in state. I can't find a K24A2 in state.

DirtyEP3
11-12-2007, 10:34 PM
well if you can get a a4 and upgrade rods and pistons for less then a a1 i would go for it. i think that the a4 wont have oil squirters but those can be installed on that block. it would be good to ugrade your bottom end with a type-s oil pump also so that u dont spin any rod bearings.