zex nitrous kit

[crabby760]

i have a used zex nitrous kit... what is the best way to hook it up so it will work the right way on my 93 integra ls?

let me know what i need....

and how to wire everything in

[crabby760]

come on someone on here has to know how to help me out with this....

[92hndahatch]

hook it up on your intake. my friends is in through the hole for the breather hose on his intake

[bumpstick]

you have no instructions with it? i would probably try to get those before i did anything else

[I Hate Import Cars]

http://www.zex.com/

[kawgomoo]

the destructions tell you everything oyu need to know. there is only but one way to do it.

[Motorhead]

I want to save you the hassle of installing and then reinstalling the kit; these ZEX kits never work properly, especially the dry kits with vacuum input. I've had so many problems with the ones I've worked with. Sell the kit and get a NOS or NX; I like those two a lot better than the ZEX pile of crap.

[ondo]

i had a zex kit on my honda for years and it worked great. if you think the kit might be bad or dont want to risk it sell it and buy a dynotune nitrous kit. they are the best kits for the money. i have one on my c5 running a 220 shot with out a problem. they probably have the best service and you cant beat there prices. check out there site if you want dynotunenitrous.com

[kawgomoo]

zex kits are reliable if your not a complete idiot.

just read the instructions. wet manifold is not the way to go on a honda, and all dry manifold kits work the same way. a 220 shot on a c5 has nothing in common with zex on an import.

if you want puddles of fuel in your intake manifold and nitrous backfires then by all means sell the zex and get a single fogger wet like so many tell you to do.

[I Hate Import Cars]

if you want puddles of fuel in your intake manifold and nitrous backfires then by all means sell the zex and get a single fogger wet like so many tell you to do.

If you're LUCKY! Worst case scenario all that fuel ACTUALLY makes it into your motor, and all Hell ensues! Here's MY recommendation on nitrous setups, based on my experience with them in the past. Are you ready? Here goes; IF YOU'RE NOT GOING TO TUNE FOR NITROUS, DO NOT USE NITROUS. PERIOD. End of story. Nitrous is one of the easiest and safest power adders there are, WHEN USED PROPERLY. But if you don't know what the hell you're doing, it's also the fastest way to destroy a motor. I refuse to ever believe that there is a safe "bolt on" setup that will ever be created. Why? Because there are WAY too many variables in making nitrous power.

Now, as for the safest and most reliable nitrous setup on a Honda? I'm going to say that a direct port DRY nitrous setup, where the solonoid is triggered through the ECU, and the ECU adds the additional fuel via properly sized injectors, is going to be your best bet.

Dry single fogger is not ideal because the nitrous is sprayed in right above the number 1 runner, and as a result, 1 is about dead on, and 2, 3, and 4 get progressively richer in that order because the nitrous gets drawn into the previous runners first.

Wet single is no bueno because the same thing happens, only now you're sending fuel as well, but the timing curve is going to be for a full strength hit, so when number 4 gets a 1/2 strength hit, it's going to have too much timing.

Finally, a wet direct port is hard on a 4 cylinder because even dialed as weak as possible, you're still going to be starting at about a 100hp hit, and that's a big risk to START tuning there. The only way to go lower is to have custom made jet sizes for the fuel side, but then you run into the problem of your fuel jet oriface being SO small (0.011"!!!) that one tiny spec of dirt will clog it, and then you're going to be lean as hell, aka, BOOM! Trust me, I know all about this from experience. ;)

The point is, NO nitrous setup or "kit" is going to be safe and reliable if you don't bother setting it up for your application in particular. There is no "one size fits all" for this.

[kawgomoo]

well .011 is not small at all. if you have particles of dirt that size getting past your fuel and nos filters something is terribly wacked out.

i agree dry is about the safest way to go. but triggered by the ecu, that can be a tough one on a honda. as long as you at least use window and wot switch to at least make sure you are at wot and above 2000 or so rpm all will be well.

being a little rich never hurt anything, so just add enough fuel to keep numero uno happy.

tuning for nitrous can be a bitch, since wide band readings are almost totally useless {oxidizer} all you really have to go on is reading the plugs and knock signal.

ive always had good luck with the juice, direct port wet is my preference. but for the casual user zex is nice. it assures teh basic safety parameters are met, it adds fuel direct port since its through the inectors. but much like an fmu the fuel tuning is course at absolute best.

nitrous is safe, but its way too easy to overshoot the amount of power the engine can handle and break shit. zex has always served my idiot customers well, gives them that 50-70 hp hit they are looking for and doesnt cost much.

there are better ways, but bang for the buck im sayin go with the purple box. its simple to setup, simple to use. any body can understand the destructions.

i have never seen an intake manifold blown apart, a filter mushroomed and on fire of a throttle plate folded over with a zex kit. i have seen this with every other wet kit on the planet....

the nos/nos xpress/wtf ever dry kits are ok, but installation is a compete pain due to all the micro switches and maze of unreliable crap you have to install to make it relatively safe.


also most hondas have 2 horn buttons on the steering wheel. i use a 3 way switch, steal the signl from the button. switch neutral beep the horn and the horn works, flip it down horn activates the purge, flip it up horn activates the juice. of course i always use a master power/safety switch just for safeties sake.

i agree there is no one size fits all solution. but we are talking a ls teg here. not a vette or a blown alcy big block. for the casual user safety is key. and zex has done most of the homework for you. those wet kits out there come with jetting based off carb'd fuel pressure of about 9 lbs. zex will tell you what "fuel" jet, what nitrous jet you need, how many degrees timing to pull and wether or not you will need to go to colder plugs for your application.

ive never grenaded an engine with the purple box. i have customers running them spraying about 1-2 bottles a month for several years with no problems. only issue i have had is the box going bad, and the new ones have the reset on them which seems to have solved this.

the more power you make the less time the motor will live. anyone that says running nitrous, turbo whatever will not shorten engine life is either a damned fool or a liar.

[I Hate Import Cars]

Agreed that anyone saying it will not shorten engine life is an idiot. DISagree that 0.011" isn't that small. The smallest comercially available jet is 0.014" for a reason. And I think that you may be surprised at how big of a hole a spec of dirt will block. I know I was. .018" jet clogged by a piece of dirt that could only have gotten in through the nitrous feed tube when changing bottles. Luckily it was on the N2) side so we went rich, not lean. This was how I learned yet ANOTHER important lesson about nitrous; check/clean the filter between the feed line and the N2O solonoid EVERY TIME you change bottles! Just a heads up! ;)

[kawgomoo]

there should be a nitrous filter with a little whip that connects to the bottle.

most people never purge/clear there lines before hooking it all up.

lots of people clog there shit up with teflon tape.

.011 is roughly 300 microns. nothing except pure carelessness allowed t hat bit of dirt past t he filters. no filter is that course. my fuel pre pump are 100, post pump is 40.

nitrous prefilters are 140 micron. aka .0055"

[explode13]

man you guys are making a big deal out of it go to zex website get the jet size i recomend a fogger system . pump 91 octane retard timing 1 degree for evry 25hp u use and run it. i ran nitrous on all my cars i went through evrything from blowing up the motor .melting one , just follow instruction and youll be fine honda cranks could hold a 150 shot easy .

[kawgomoo]

the cranks can hold 600 hp. its the rods and ever so brittle pistons that should worry you.

the zex instructions tell you all you need to know. i totally agree. if you follow what they tell you you wont have a problem.

wet kits are the fucking devil.

[Vtec_IN_3RD]

fuck using the bottle just boost it

[kawgomoo]

but the bottle is sooo much easier and cheaper.

[I Hate Import Cars]

wet kits are the fucking devil.

Direct port dry+injectors FTW!

fuck using the bottle just boost it

Gladly...when someone else wants to pick up the tab. ;)

but the bottle is sooo much easier and cheaper.

x123269458952109835!!! And anyone who says nitrous isn't a "legitimate power adder" is a "legitimate retard." Power is power. Who the fuck cares where it comes from?

[FabricatorX]

It's better when it comes from me. Boost is better lol

[I Hate Import Cars]

It's better when it comes from me. Boost is better lol

Jimmy, EVERYTHING Is better when it comes from you! ;) :snookems:

[kawgomoo]

i like that avatar.. how come my tungsten doesnt make the pretty pink arc... unless im using chem sharp ;)

[explode13]

bottle is the best. boost is a waist of time , boost have to much factors in them
plus turbo lag sucks you have to wait for the boost to kick in , nitrous is ready set go

[V10KLR]

ok, i have a B18C JDM with ITR pistons ... an i want to run 50shoots ... will that be possible? im definetly goin to get ECU from locash an gettin tuned for it , even dont expect to be usin it every 5 minutes i may use it every other weekend, but im gettin a wideband, better injector, fuel pump, fuel gage, i definetly dont want to blow the shit out of my motor ... so what else u guys think shud i get?

This is the kit im talkin about ..

http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=100

http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/ProdImages/universal_we_kit_large.jpg

so what u guys thin, first of all .. i will be safe on this set up with the ITR pistons or not ?

[I Hate Import Cars]

Don't waste your money on a wideband unless you are getting a complete stand alone management system. Stock Honda ECU's (even if chipped) cannot read the switching fast enough to use a wideband. Just FYI...

[V10KLR]

Don't waste your money on a wideband unless you are getting a complete stand alone management system. Stock Honda ECU's (even if chipped) cannot read the switching fast enough to use a wideband. Just FYI...

So u recommend me to get something like this then ?

http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/ProdImages/AF_SWITCH_LARGE.JPG

DynoTune Air/Fuel ratio Lean Shut-Down switches Perform!!!

Can You Afford Not To Run One?

DynoTune Air/Fuel Lean shut-down switch is the original and only A/F switch available. This tiny stand alone device(you need nothing else to make it work other than your factory o2 sensor or wideband controller) is a Microprocessor controlled Air/Fuel ratio Lean shut-down switch that will shut off the nitrous system if it goes lean during a Nitrous run and best of all, It works with your existing OEM oxygen sensor! (0-1v oxygen sensors)(or 0-5v wideband controllers).

With its built in Wide Open Electronic TPS Switch it makes installation a snap.

When a Lean condition occurs the Switch will shut down the nitrous system or boost controller and the Optional Red status indicator will illuminate for a short period(20 seconds) to tell the Driver what has happened. The display will flash "LLL" to let the drive know a lean condition has occured. The switch will reset and be ready for another run automatically.

The driver can then recall and view the min and max Air/Fuel ratio during the run, right on the display.

A fuel pressure safety switch is nice but it just does not work well enough, a bad fuel solenoid or clogged fuel jet, and its all over.

There are only a few wires to hook up and it's very simple. Typical installation takes less than 30 minutes! The switch is compact and will mount almost anywhere. For the ulitmate in accuracy, get the Innovate wideband controller and use this system to monitor your A/F ratio with its built in A/F Display.

Using the units built in Air/Fuel ratio Display will allow real time monitoring so the need for an additional gauge is eliminated.

Vehicles with Carburetors, Fuel injection, Blowers, Turbo’s, Nitrous,this switch is a must!

It's the purchasers job to ensure thier factory oxygen sensor is a 0-1V style, standard o2 sensor. This will not work with factory wideband sensors found in some new cars.

Works with Innovate, FJO and all other programable widbeand systems.

An addtional 0-1V oxygen sensor can be purchased from dynotune.

Checkout all these features:

--Microprocessor contolled

--Built in Air/ fuel ratio display(narrow and wideband)

--Built in TPS (WOT) Switch

--Peak and Min A/F memory during the run

--Multiple outputs 12V and Ground

--Multiple Trigger inputs 12V and ground

--Programable trip points

--Adjustable delay to let lean spikes settle

--6 Foot wire harness Light Weight

--12 Volt Operation

--Fast response

--Super Low Current

--Draw Micro Package Mounts Anywhere 1.8" Wide x 2.4" Tall x .9" Deep

http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=67

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I really want to be safe heheehehe

[I Hate Import Cars]

Well, here's my take on that; Good idea, don't get me wrong, but if you have your system properly tuned, and you prpoerly maintain the system, I don't see why you would need it. I mean, it's a great "feel good" part, but I don't think it's entirely needed.

[kawgomoo]

fuck that dyno tune kit. its a single fogger wet. the exact thing you need to stay away from. run a zex kit in the 50-65 hp range. follow the instructions in the manual and you will be completely fine.
------

dynotune uses a micro switch on the throttle, a true bitch to install and adjust. the zex kit is designed to be nearly fool proof as it is triggered off tps voltage. the micro switch can get out of adjustment, and cause flakey nos activation. not to mention you end up with wires and shit running everywyere. that kit is just a el cheapo kit with some fancy internet marketing behind it. a kit is a kit is a kit. you spray fuel and nitrous in specific amounts in relation to each other to achieve the proper a/f ratio. the size of the nos jet decides how much power you are going to make, the size of the fuel jet keeps the relation of fuel to nitrous proper.

zex installation is power, ground, wire to the arming switch and a wire to the center pin on the tps. cut the vacuum line to the fuel regulator, install the tee and vacuum line from the zex box. run the nitrous hose from the trunk to the zex box, run the fogger line from the box to the fogger which is about 6" from the throttle body. voila your done.

dynotune kit requires installing a relay, which can be daunting to the uninitiated in itself. then you have to find a place to install the micro switch where it wont get tangled in teh throttle cable/linkage. then you have to run 2 wires from that over to the relay, you need power and ground for both solenoids. you need power and ground for the relay, you need to wire it all correctly so the relay has to see the arming switch is armed, then the micro switch is depressed and finally a trigger button unless you only want the micro switch to control the spray.

this is a series of analog events that allows much room for error. the zex kit is microprocessor controlled. all of this happens inside the box where its nice and clean and controlled. you dont have miles of wire running everywhere waiting to get tangled up or pinched somewhere. lets say you ground trigger the dyno tune, you can easily get a wire pinched and activate the nos on accident. or worse yet you have postive triggers for the micro switch and everything else. now you have a high pressure fuel line that has been cut and hose clamped, just waiting to pop off and spray fuel everywhere, power wires running all over the place just waiting to get shorted out and melt down and or start a wire fire..

its endless.



if you want to spend some money on something useful get a zex kit, get a bottle warmer and a remote bottle opener and a purge kit. then you will have everything you need.

SINGLE FOGGER WET KITS ARE THE FUCKING DEVIL.

if you want a wet kit get a 4 fogger direct port.

zex is only good to about 70hp because you can only add but so much fuel through the injector by raising fuel pressure. after a certain point the injector is saturated. reguardless of pressure it wont flow anymore fuel without being held open longer. this is where triggering the nitrous through the ecu and adding enrichment that way comes into play.

stock rods and pistons are only good for so much. so why waste money on all that other crap if the motor can only handle 50 or 60hp shot safely anyhow?



i cant believe this discussion is still alive.

[kawgomoo]

If you're LUCKY! Worst case scenario all that fuel ACTUALLY makes it into your motor, and all Hell ensues! Here's MY recommendation on nitrous setups, based on my experience with them in the past. Are you ready? Here goes; IF YOU'RE NOT GOING TO TUNE FOR NITROUS, DO NOT USE NITROUS. PERIOD. End of story. Nitrous is one of the easiest and safest power adders there are, WHEN USED PROPERLY. But if you don't know what the hell you're doing, it's also the fastest way to destroy a motor. I refuse to ever believe that there is a safe "bolt on" setup that will ever be created. Why? Because there are WAY too many variables in making nitrous power.

Now, as for the safest and most reliable nitrous setup on a Honda? I'm going to say that a direct port DRY nitrous setup, where the solonoid is triggered through the ECU, and the ECU adds the additional fuel via properly sized injectors, is going to be your best bet.

Dry single fogger is not ideal because the nitrous is sprayed in right above the number 1 runner, and as a result, 1 is about dead on, and 2, 3, and 4 get progressively richer in that order because the nitrous gets drawn into the previous runners first.

Wet single is no bueno because the same thing happens, only now you're sending fuel as well, but the timing curve is going to be for a full strength hit, so when number 4 gets a 1/2 strength hit, it's going to have too much timing.

Finally, a wet direct port is hard on a 4 cylinder because even dialed as weak as possible, you're still going to be starting at about a 100hp hit, and that's a big risk to START tuning there. The only way to go lower is to have custom made jet sizes for the fuel side, but then you run into the problem of your fuel jet oriface being SO small (0.011"!!!) that one tiny spec of dirt will clog it, and then you're going to be lean as hell, aka, BOOM! Trust me, I know all about this from experience. ;)

The point is, NO nitrous setup or "kit" is going to be safe and reliable if you don't bother setting it up for your application in particular. There is no "one size fits all" for this.

i really wonder what you are smoking sometimes. the problem with wet kits on hondas is the air has to change direction so many times to get to the valve. the nitrous is fine, but the fuel begins to fall out of suspension and form droplets. they stick to everything and you get big ass puddles of fuel in the intake. during the overlap of the valves you get a source for ignition and voila a nitrous backfire. thats why you see shroomed air filters and blown up manifolds. it has nothing to do with too much fuel in your motor. too much fuel equals rich condition and low on power. the fuel not making it in there leads to lean condition and melted pistons.
if your motor is tuned well you dont need to tune for nitrous. as i said earlier you tune the kit before its installed. you know the fuel pressure, you know the bottle pressure. its simple chemistry.

dry kits assure the ratio remains constant because the fuel is added at the back of the valve where it should be. on a wet kit the fuel and nitrous seperate so you dont know which cylinder is getting what.

you guys are gonna confuse the hell out of this poor kid and hes gonna end up with some blown up shit.

look at a v8 carb manifold. now look at a honda manifold. you are comparing apples to oranges my friend.

the only tuning you need to do is pull a few degrees of timing to assure there is no knock.

a/f is NOT the end all be all of tuning.

the variables you speak of... are not so many. really the only variable is bottle pressure, as the colder the bottle the less pressure. but as long as you jet for a full bottle your good, because it will only rich out from there.

a honda engine has an ecu. the air fuel is predetermined. so adding 50 hp on a stock engine is simple. there no magical tuning needed. you know how big the injectors are, you know how much fuel they can flow when the fuel pressure is raised 20 lbs. you know how much bottle pressure there is and you know the orifice of the nitrous jet. i dont see how you believe these all to be variable. it sounds to me you have suffered from many poorly setup nitrous systems. this kid only needs 50 hp. not a 2 stage 750 shot on his big block.

you refuse to believe because you lack experience. zex has done there homework. they know the amount of fuel needed to keep the kit safe. the instructions tell you what "fuel" jet to run, what nitrous jet, what temp. plugs you need and how many degrees of timing to pull for each hp setting. there figures are conservative. you could strap it to a dyno and squeak a little more power out of it for sure. but there guidelines are SAFE.


lets see if we can kick a dead horse some more.

[I Hate Import Cars]

i really wonder what you are smoking sometimes. the problem with wet kits on hondas is the air has to change direction so many times to get to the valve. the nitrous is fine, but the fuel begins to fall out of suspension and form droplets. they stick to everything and you get big ass puddles of fuel in the intake. during the overlap of the valves you get a source for ignition and voila a nitrous backfire. thats why you see shroomed air filters and blown up manifolds. it has nothing to do with too much fuel in your motor. too much fuel equals rich condition and low on power. the fuel not making it in there leads to lean condition and melted pistons.
if your motor is tuned well you dont need to tune for nitrous. as i said earlier you tune the kit before its installed. you know the fuel pressure, you know the bottle pressure. its simple chemistry.

dry kits assure the ratio remains constant because the fuel is added at the back of the valve where it should be. on a wet kit the fuel and nitrous seperate so you dont know which cylinder is getting what.

you guys are gonna confuse the hell out of this poor kid and hes gonna end up with some blown up shit.

look at a v8 carb manifold. now look at a honda manifold. you are comparing apples to oranges my friend.

the only tuning you need to do is pull a few degrees of timing to assure there is no knock.

a/f is NOT the end all be all of tuning.

the variables you speak of... are not so many. really the only variable is bottle pressure, as the colder the bottle the less pressure. but as long as you jet for a full bottle your good, because it will only rich out from there.

a honda engine has an ecu. the air fuel is predetermined. so adding 50 hp on a stock engine is simple. there no magical tuning needed. you know how big the injectors are, you know how much fuel they can flow when the fuel pressure is raised 20 lbs. you know how much bottle pressure there is and you know the orifice of the nitrous jet. i dont see how you believe these all to be variable. it sounds to me you have suffered from many poorly setup nitrous systems. this kid only needs 50 hp. not a 2 stage 750 shot on his big block.

you refuse to believe because you lack experience. zex has done there homework. they know the amount of fuel needed to keep the kit safe. the instructions tell you what "fuel" jet to run, what nitrous jet, what temp. plugs you need and how many degrees of timing to pull for each hp setting. there figures are conservative. you could strap it to a dyno and squeak a little more power out of it for sure. but there guidelines are SAFE.


lets see if we can kick a dead horse some more.

Did somebody hire you to follow me around and shit-talk EVERYTHING I SAY? Sweet fucking hell, you're rediculous. What are you trying to prove here? Are you looking to have all of us tell you that you're right? That you're the nitrous king? "ALL HAIL kawgomoo, KING OF THE NITROUS!" Is that better?

All I am trying to show this "poor kid" is that running nitrous on a motor is not just some shit that you decide on a whim to do, then do it. You need to undertstand what's going on and why it's going on before you go jumping into it. I'm sure that if you're only running a small shot (50hp was your reference) then you can get the MAP to read it and add fuel quickly enough to compensate for it. But if you want to make a considerable amount of power on a Honda with a nitrous setup, a single fogger system, wet OR dry, just isn't going to be ideal. It's just like you said, there are WAY too many changes in direction to be made before the valve is reached. And with the best MAP in the world it's not going to be able to read the HUGE increase in air and react by adding fuel to that air before the air (nitrous) gets to the valve. It's just not going to be fast enough. I know it WILL catch up, but that just means you lean out for a second before the additional fuel is calculated and added.

Now compare that with running a direct port setup DRY that is triggered through the ECU, and adding fuel through the injectors. Now the ECU (which controls fuel) is deciding when the nitrous comes on. That way YOU get to choose when the additional fuel comes on, whether that's a split second BEFORE the nitrous, or instantaneously WHEN the nitrous comes on, whatever. Also, you have total control over the spark timing and curve involved in the entire event. Now, REALLY consider this; you have TOTAL control over your 3 main factors in nitrous safety AND power through the ECU; FUEL, NITROUS, and IGNITION. I can't honestly think of a safer way to do it. Can you?

The other option in this line of thought is to run direct port wet, still triggered through the ECU. The only problem with that is that the lowest that you can jet a direct port WET setup is around 100hp, and that's kinda risky to START there.

Either way, direct port is the safest way to run because you are ensuring that what you meter for each cylinder is making it into THAT cylinder. This is important anywhere, but ESPECIALLY on applications with a "log" type manifold that puts the cylinders progressively further away from the initial air source.

Think of it this way. Let's say you want to add 100 grams of nitrous to a motor (just throwing out numbers, stay with me now.) Ideally, that would mean that you'd be getting an additional 25 grams of nitrous to each cylinder. You have 2 delivery options. You can;
A) Jet a single fogger nozzle in the intake stream for a 100 gram hit and HOPE that each cylinder gets 25 grams AND hope that the MAP input was fast and accurate enough to account for the full 100 grams, knowing that the ECU ASSUMES that each cylinder will get it's 25 grams when it calculates the additional fuel. Or you can;
B) Jet 4 direct port foggers for 25 grams each, trigger that through the ECU, then program the ECU to add the additional fuel that is needed KNOWING that each cylinder is getting it's 25 grams.

And that's not even getting into spark timing and curves!

Now, which one sounds safer to you? I'm going to go with the theory that "knowing" is better than "hoping" ANY DAY! THAT is the point I'm trying to make here.

And for the record, this horse has been dead for A WHILE.

[kawgomoo]

i dont follow you around, i just happen to post on alot of the same threads.

what map has to do with nitrous injection, do you mean map as in fuel and spark map, or manifold absolute pressure sensor. a map sensor has nearly nothing to do with nos injection as the pressure doesnt rise like it would in FI.

sure the safest way is to run EMS that triggers the nos and has a seperate spark curve. i still feel direct port is better than through the injectors, since you at least have starting point that is chemically correct. when you add through injectors its basically an educated guess since most ems read arbitrary numbers 0-255.

but here we are discussing dry manifold single fogger kits. its a 50 shot, the fueling is added by clamping off the FPR. the size of the "fuel" jet determines how clamped down it gets thereby raising the fuel pressure.

you can pull a few degrees of timing at the dizzy, and or run a colder plug. sure off the bottle performance may suffer ever so slightly, but i can pretty much guarantee your average user will not notice it.

this is a zex vs wet single fogger discussion. talk all you want about ecu activated blah blah blah. zex is safer and easier for the average consumer than a single fogger wet. period.



i do like the all hail kawgomoo king of the nitrous thing though. has a nice ring to it ;) ive never had any job other than building go fast cars in one form or another. i do this crap each and every day, all day. i hate to say it. but i know when im right and generally wont give in. tenacious bastard i b.

i have however blown up more hondas on the bottle than i would ever care to admit. ive learned the hard way that is for damn sure. i just like zex cause its easy... and most importantly, its easy. but a sohc with a 4 fogger direct is the ultimate rush :) too bad the hood latch gave out before the motor. lol

if someone was willing to pay me to talk shit, id be a fuckin millionare by now.



i kick this horse no more.

[I Hate Import Cars]

i dont follow you around, i just happen to post on alot of the same threads.

what map has to do with nitrous injection, do you mean map as in fuel and spark map, or manifold absolute pressure sensor. a map sensor has nearly nothing to do with nos injection as the pressure doesnt rise like it would in FI.

sure the safest way is to run EMS that triggers the nos and has a seperate spark curve. i still feel direct port is better than through the injectors, since you at least have starting point that is chemically correct. when you add through injectors its basically an educated guess since most ems read arbitrary numbers 0-255.

but here we are discussing dry manifold single fogger kits. its a 50 shot, the fueling is added by clamping off the FPR. the size of the "fuel" jet determines how clamped down it gets thereby raising the fuel pressure.

you can pull a few degrees of timing at the dizzy, and or run a colder plug. sure off the bottle performance may suffer ever so slightly, but i can pretty much guarantee your average user will not notice it.

this is a zex vs wet single fogger discussion. talk all you want about ecu activated blah blah blah. zex is safer and easier for the average consumer than a single fogger wet. period.



i do like the all hail kawgomoo king of the nitrous thing though. has a nice ring to it ;) ive never had any job other than building go fast cars in one form or another. i do this crap each and every day, all day. i hate to say it. but i know when im right and generally wont give in. tenacious bastard i b.

i have however blown up more hondas on the bottle than i would ever care to admit. ive learned the hard way that is for damn sure. i just like zex cause its easy... and most importantly, its easy. but a sohc with a 4 fogger direct is the ultimate rush :) too bad the hood latch gave out before the motor. lol

if someone was willing to pay me to talk shit, id be a fuckin millionare by now.



i kick this horse no more.


HAHAHAHA!!!! Alright, alright. I think we're through here. And yes, I was talking about the MAP sensor, because for anything OTHER than the ZEX kit, that's how the additional fuel is calculated. I just have a REAL hard time trusting a MAP sensor to read the amount of air (nitrous) that is introduced quickly enough to compensate effectively, but that's just me. And yes, you're right. That is EXACTLY where the ZEX kit kicks ass on the others, because it adds fuel via the regulator instead of counting on the MAP sensor to read it and add fuel. I guess I was trying to give general info on nitrous setups AT ALL, and not just focusing on the Zex kit.

I'm with you on the fact that all I have done since I was old enough to turn a wrench was work on gnarly motors, A LOT of them with nitrous...And yes, I've hurt a few of them ("hurt"...now THAT'S the understatement of the year!) As for the "ALL HAIL kawgomoo" thing, for a small fee I can post that somewhere different every day... ;) What do ya think?

[kawgomoo]

As for the "ALL HAIL kawgomoo" thing, for a small fee I can post that somewhere different every day... ;) What do ya think?

i got five on it... ;)

map cars are reffered to as a speed density system. you arrive at the fueling and spark "cell" by cross referencing map signal and tps. this is how load is determined. a good ecu would switch to a seperate fueling map that is triggered by the nitrous activation switch. as a safeguard it would not activate unless tps was at 100%. map doesnt really increase with nitrous... not like it would with a boosted car that relies more heavily on map signal for fueling changes.

nitrous doesnt pressurize the intake like turbo. it just increases the amount of oxygen because its.. get this. an oxidizer. lol go figure.


let me get this party started...
ALL HAIL KING KAWGOMOO!! god of all that it is reciprocating {except wankels, fuck those things}

[I Hate Import Cars]

i got five on it... ;)

map cars are reffered to as a speed density system. you arrive at the fueling and spark "cell" by cross referencing map signal and tps. this is how load is determined. a good ecu would switch to a seperate fueling map that is triggered by the nitrous activation switch. as a safeguard it would not activate unless tps was at 100%. map doesnt really increase with nitrous... not like it would with a boosted car that relies more heavily on map signal for fueling changes.

nitrous doesnt pressurize the intake like turbo. it just increases the amount of oxygen because its.. get this. an oxidizer. lol go figure.


let me get this party started...
ALL HAIL KING KAWGOMOO!! god of all that it is reciprocating {except wankels, fuck those things}



HAHAHAHA!!!!! Fair enough. I'm with you on that. That's why in my car we trigger the nitrous with the ECU so that the MAP isn't relied on for the additional fuel.

You wanna hear something that's a trip? Did you know that if you are running direct port on a big enough hit, that the nitrous moving into the cylinder can ACTUALLY register on the MAP because it will create a vacuum? Is that CRAZY? I kid you not, I've seen it on a dyno. CAr kept fucking up and they couldn't get it to run right, (they were running a 400hp hit direct port wet). Everytime the squeezed, it would get rich and misfire. They tried to jet it out but it didn't change anything. Since they were data logging the tune, someone started looking REAL close at everything, and noticed that when the nitrous was activated, manifold vacuum IMMEDIATELY jumped up, but NOT in proportion to
throttle input and RPM. So they set up a manifold (off of a motor) and put the same jets in it and put a vacuum gauge on it, then hit the nitrous and sure as shit, it pulled a vacuum. So what was happening was that the massive amount of air (nitrous) being introduced into the intake and directed AWAY from the throttle body was creating a void behind the nozzles and the MAP was reading it, adding fuel and it was going rich. Is that CRAZY?!?! But granted, that's with a 400+hp hit. I don't see any of US running into that problem! :)