Ls Vtec In CRX help/questions Please

[fmx_dbc]

I have a OBD 0 LS in my CRX and the valve guides just went out so it looks like I'm going to be throwing another head on.
I am extremely interested in doing Ls Vtec!
Would it matter if I used a OBD 1 or OBD 2 head? And reasons please.
I know I would need the head, distributor, Ls Vtec kit, conversion harness, and ECU. Is there anything other than what I listed that needs to be done?
I know nothing about doing Ls Vtec, so any information would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance!
:bananaman:

[2point6]

I have a OBD 0 LS in my CRX and the valve guides just went out so it looks like I'm going to be throwing another head on.
I am extremely interested in doing Ls Vtec!
Would it matter if I used a OBD 1 or OBD 2 head? And reasons please.
I know I would need the head, distributor, Ls Vtec kit, conversion harness, and ECU. Is there anything other than what I listed that needs to be done?
I know nothing about doing Ls Vtec, so any information would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance!
:bananaman:

Rod bolts... higher compression pistons.

[eddie12]

ok what im going to say is very long but anything to help.for one bad ass lsvtec build this is the guideline i would do i have built 3 in the last 3 years and all have ran 11 at the track all motor..i would use 92 gsr ecu p61,b18a 91 gs bottom end and a b16 vtec head. there are amny ways but i prefer this.1st your going to have to plug the oil supply hole if u cant do it ur self take it to the shop or tap it ur self. tap i 1/8npt plug make sure you lock it tight caus eu will damage ur head..lol.ur head gasket is very important trust me i know the first build we almost put the head gasket on the wrong way so make sure u pay attention.torque all your head bolts, then run a new oil lines to feed the vtec head might want to get some pic 4 that step.your going to needa section of braided stainless line, then cut with saw make sure u take ur time and dont fray the line. place the houseing of the an fitting over the lineSS sure to lube the line as well.place the end into the the an fitting inside the red houseing and screw them together. then run the line from the block to the tee mount in the firewall then the other to the 4an pt piting on the head i should be 3/8 or something there is 3 holes the last one u will need to plug with ur stock oil sending unit.use teflon tape on that bitch the threads get lose. make sure ur fuel rail is installed before u tighten ur ss fitting u will feel dumb and all that work. after that u might have to go buy a new oil sending wire to reach the firewall mounting.its about 4 bucks. now 4 the good stuff listen very close this might be expensive but if u want to be the fastest mo fo out there take ur time and do it right dont rush perfection..so this is what i did in my boys 11 sec ride.if ur going to boost the ls pistons r cool but 4 all motor there garbage throw em out or sell em.ur going to have to buy some dowel pins 4 the head use golden eaglethey stand up good.use teflon tape 4 that.get aftermarket forged pistons and /rods its not necessary but i would the stock are moe prone to detonition the afterMARKET but it helps.4 ur rigs get hASTINGS that what i used every time. get arp rod bolts ls bolts are the same too they come in d series motors if u got one around.the one main thing that goes wrong in a build like this is not the internals its ur rivet size rod bolts so just upgrade to arp or just shotpen the stock ones if ur low on $$$.then save up and get ur block balanced at a shop like i said its a hard build but worth every pennie when ur smokin dude with nos and turbo.p30 pistons and rings upgraded, cylinders honed,shotpeened ls rods if u decide to do that, arp rod bolts, rods resized,crank balanced,polished,and then knife edged.next head studs got to do this gsr/itr stud bolts dont use b16,b18 studs the length is way off so dnt waste ur time. make sure u kep the engine clean all the time beofre u work on it and after brake cleaner works wonders and compressed air.water pump is next upgrade to a oem itr gsr (72)pup. same 4 the timing belt itr grs or oem.has to be the samethe 72 i think has 22 or 23 teeth on it but the opposed to the ls that has like 18 -20 teeth not really sure but upgrade.UPGRADE UR WATER PIPES ans thermostat housing as well. u will thank me later.breather box needs to be 90-95 ls blocks it doesnt matter on the milage of the block u get because u just rebuilt it so look around 4 deal or givaways..know what i mean.work smart not hard.if u dnt have the breather box ur motor will have very high crankcase pressure no good.as far as ur pistons make sure they r at the top of ther stroke very important.better 4 timing belt in the ling run trust me again on that.now 4 the head take notes..damn im geting tired...ok so 4 the head slide the ls/crv 90-01 ls or even 96-00 crv head gasket over ur studs then dowel pins into EXHAUST SIDE,,,, then the head over everyelse.then washers nuts shit like that ur not dumb ...bolt em down.vtec soleniod need to be installed with ur temp senson gonna need that 1.k thats done next is pickin ur cams..i would do gsr cams cheap and easy to find stock compresion on the block.itr or ctr if u want to go big buts its not worth it.valve springs i use itr duel springs with the cams.ushould be at 11.5.1 after all that if ur higher check it out or take it to the shop.if u dnt have the money 4 itr cams maybe buddy club rocket or my fav skunk 2. but gsr work just as wel..4 ur mani i go with itr or b16 mani same bolt pattern gsr differnet unless u go with the gsr mani need to be the same..so dont forget...the b16 is what i preferits way better on power at 6 or 7 grand intake mani gaskets get them,,asap 1-5 hp increase.like 30-50 bucks not bad at all.use type r injectors.fuel rail aem all the way. dc headers.straight pipe. stock rails r good 4 500 hp but just upgrade u never know. get 310cc injectors..4 ur timing belt use gsr or itr if u got the money,msd ignition,intake skunk,good battery,thats about it if i forgot something just pm me but make sure u look 4 leaks on it.THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT THING I WILL SAY, WHEN U PUT THE MOTOR IN U WILL WANT TO RUN IT HARD PLEASE DNT TO MUCH MONEY AND WORK IN IT 4 U TO GO FUC$ IT UP.30W NON DETERGENT WHEN U 1ST GET IT THEN AFTER LIKE 100 MILES NON SYN GOT IT GOOD.AFTER ALL THIS U SHOULD BE AT LIKE 1000 OR 1200 DEPENDS ON HOW U SHOP AND HP FROM 200- 220 DEPENDING ON HOW U BEILT IT..GOOD HUNTING..

[2point6]

ok what im going to say is very long but anything to help.for one bad ass lsvtec build this is the guideline i would do i have built 3 in the last 3 years and all have ran 11 at the track all motor..i would use 92 gsr ecu p61,b18a 91 gs bottom end and a b16 vtec head. there are amny ways but i prefer this.1st your going to have to plug the oil supply hole if u cant do it ur self take it to the shop or tap it ur self. tap i 1/8npt plug make sure you lock it tight caus eu will damage ur head..lol.ur head gasket is very important trust me i know the first build we almost put the head gasket on the wrong way so make sure u pay attention.torque all your head bolts, then run a new oil lines to feed the vtec head might want to get some pic 4 that step.your going to needa section of braided stainless line, then cut with saw make sure u take ur time and dont fray the line. place the houseing of the an fitting over the lineSS sure to lube the line as well.place the end into the the an fitting inside the red houseing and screw them together. then run the line from the block to the tee mount in the firewall then the other to the 4an pt piting on the head i should be 3/8 or something there is 3 holes the last one u will need to plug with ur stock oil sending unit.use teflon tape on that bitch the threads get lose. make sure ur fuel rail is installed before u tighten ur ss fitting u will feel dumb and all that work. after that u might have to go buy a new oil sending wire to reach the firewall mounting.its about 4 bucks. now 4 the good stuff listen very close this might be expensive but if u want to be the fastest mo fo out there take ur time and do it right dont rush perfection..so this is what i did in my boys 11 sec ride.if ur going to boost the ls pistons r cool but 4 all motor there garbage throw em out or sell em.ur going to have to buy some dowel pins 4 the head use golden eaglethey stand up good.use teflon tape 4 that.get aftermarket forged pistons and /rods its not necessary but i would the stock are moe prone to detonition the afterMARKET but it helps.4 ur rigs get hASTINGS that what i used every time. get arp rod bolts ls bolts are the same too they come in d series motors if u got one around.the one main thing that goes wrong in a build like this is not the internals its ur rivet size rod bolts so just upgrade to arp or just shotpen the stock ones if ur low on $$$.then save up and get ur block balanced at a shop like i said its a hard build but worth every pennie when ur smokin dude with nos and turbo.p30 pistons and rings upgraded, cylinders honed,shotpeened ls rods if u decide to do that, arp rod bolts, rods resized,crank balanced,polished,and then knife edged.next head studs got to do this gsr/itr stud bolts dont use b16,b18 studs the length is way off so dnt waste ur time. make sure u kep the engine clean all the time beofre u work on it and after brake cleaner works wonders and compressed air.water pump is next upgrade to a oem itr gsr (72)pup. same 4 the timing belt itr grs or oem.has to be the samethe 72 i think has 22 or 23 teeth on it but the opposed to the ls that has like 18 -20 teeth not really sure but upgrade.UPGRADE UR WATER PIPES ans thermostat housing as well. u will thank me later.breather box needs to be 90-95 ls blocks it doesnt matter on the milage of the block u get because u just rebuilt it so look around 4 deal or givaways..know what i mean.work smart not hard.if u dnt have the breather box ur motor will have very high crankcase pressure no good.as far as ur pistons make sure they r at the top of ther stroke very important.better 4 timing belt in the ling run trust me again on that.now 4 the head take notes..damn im geting tired...ok so 4 the head slide the ls/crv 90-01 ls or even 96-00 crv head gasket over ur studs then dowel pins into EXHAUST SIDE,,,, then the head over everyelse.then washers nuts shit like that ur not dumb ...bolt em down.vtec soleniod need to be installed with ur temp senson gonna need that 1.k thats done next is pickin ur cams..i would do gsr cams cheap and easy to find stock compresion on the block.itr or ctr if u want to go big buts its not worth it.valve springs i use itr duel springs with the cams.ushould be at 11.5.1 after all that if ur higher check it out or take it to the shop.if u dnt have the money 4 itr cams maybe buddy club rocket or my fav skunk 2. but gsr work just as wel..4 ur mani i go with itr or b16 mani same bolt pattern gsr differnet unless u go with the gsr mani need to be the same..so dont forget...the b16 is what i preferits way better on power at 6 or 7 grand intake mani gaskets get them,,asap 1-5 hp increase.like 30-50 bucks not bad at all.use type r injectors.fuel rail aem all the way. dc headers.straight pipe. stock rails r good 4 500 hp but just upgrade u never know. get 310cc injectors..4 ur timing belt use gsr or itr if u got the money,msd ignition,intake skunk,good battery,thats about it if i forgot something just pm me but make sure u look 4 leaks on it.THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT THING I WILL SAY, WHEN U PUT THE MOTOR IN U WILL WANT TO RUN IT HARD PLEASE DNT TO MUCH MONEY AND WORK IN IT 4 U TO GO FUC$ IT UP.30W NON DETERGENT WHEN U 1ST GET IT THEN AFTER LIKE 100 MILES NON SYN GOT IT GOOD.AFTER ALL THIS U SHOULD BE AT LIKE 1000 OR 1200 DEPENDS ON HOW U SHOP AND HP FROM 200- 220 DEPENDING ON HOW U BEILT IT..GOOD HUNTING..

Although some of your suggestions sound good, I call BS on your 11 second claims until you answer these questions: What Track did they run 11 at? What bore were the engines? What cars were the 11 second engines in? what Hp did you make with these engines?

[2point6]

I wouldn't call myself the expert of LSVTEC engines, but I have built a lot of them. IMO, there is only one way to build them and that is... pay attention to detail.

I would never recomend putting a VTEC head right onto a stock LS block. I feel that several changes need to be made to ensure the longevity of this type of set up. Here is a very basic rundown on some of the stuff I do when building this powerplant:

*Change the pistons combination to get a more desireable compression ratio.
*Resize the rods and add ARP 8mm rod bolts
*Check the crank! Make sure the journals are round and that it is a standard size. Have it balanced and micro polished. A "turned"or "ground" crank will work, but absolutely needs to be re-nitrited.
*Align bore the block. This makes sure that all the jounals are straight and can be tailored to a desired size.
*Deck the block surface
*ITR oil pump
*ARP GSR head studs
*GSR timing belt and water pump.

All the listed stuff above IMO is neccessary to ensure the life of the bottom end.

Building the engine is a measure, assemble, disaasemble, measure again, and assemble again process. Some engines get even more attention, but I will save that for my customers. I am sure there are those who will contradict my methods, but I feel I have had exellent success with these engines due to the detail I put into every one.

I am not going to tell people what bearings to use and how to set bearing tolerances as some do things different. These steps set engine builders apart from one another. I have a set standard I use and it has proven to last long and make power.

As far as the head is concerned... get one, any one. I prefer the GSR head, so I can run a flatter piston to promote flame propagation. Less dome on the piston means it can be made lighter. There is also more quench area that pulls heat out of the piston. This translates to higher static compression possibilities with less detonation.
I would get a good set of valve springs and retainers, then have them installed correctly measuring everything: Install height, retainer to guide clearance, and open and closed pressures.

Those are basics...

For more information check out this thread:
http://www.azht.net/forum/showthread.php?t=32270

[Gen2ITR]

I haven't seen any 11 sec all motor street car passes in AZ. I havent been to every event, but people around here would go apeshit and the phone would be blowing up it someone ran an 11.
Timeslips? Could this be 1/8 miles runs?

Ive seen a handfull of 11's or faster run in Race Cars. The times I wasnt there to see them, EVERYONE called to ask if I knew what they where...A 10 sec CRX from Nogales, etc.

[fmx_dbc]

What if I was to get a OBD 0 B16 head and run the Ls Vtec oil lines and get a ECU???
Could it be as simple as that? My motor is OBD 0 and I dont want to spend a ton of money.

[92hndahatch]

Although some of your suggestions sound good, I call BS on your 11 second claims until you answer these questions: What Track did they run 11 at? What bore were the engines? What cars were the 11 second engines in? what Hp did you make with these engines?

hahaha x2 i think scotts is one of the fastest all motor cars in az and he has a built h series and hes not even breaking 11's.

you would have to pretty muchly build your whole block and then get the head and oillines personally it sounds like a pain in the ass unless your going to bore it out with aftermarket high comp pistons rods and all that i would just get a vtec engine to start with find a gsr or a b16.

[Wholesaler]

hahaha x2 i think scotts is one of the fastest all motor cars in az and he has a built h series and hes not even breaking 11's.

you would have to pretty muchly build your whole block and then get the head and oillines personally it sounds like a pain in the ass unless your going to bore it out with aftermarket high comp pistons rods and all that i would just get a vtec engine to start with find a gsr or a b16.

Actually there is a few all motor guys running decent times... they just don't make a threads every lil thing they do. Johnb20 does mid 12's although he likes to say he does 11's, dohcgarage does 12's on motor, I've done a few 12.8 passes on motor and no2psi makes 11 second passes on motor.

And to the guy that wrote all that crap... lol I would like to know why he suggested itr injectors, all b series are 240cc.

[eddie12]

i feel asleep before i got done with the parts list.
ls rod blots
apr head studs
oem ls 90-01 b18c head gasket,new
acl ls bearings
shotpeen ls rods
oem ls piston rings
oem valve seals
hone cylinders
gsr water pump p72
gsr timing belt p72
gsr96+ b series oil pump
magnetic oil drain plug
oem ngk v power b16 spark plugs
11.5.1 compression
2.5 header cat back or 3 if turbo
intake mainfold gasket
cam gears cause ls vtec is always slightly off.
200+ power listen...
p30 b16 pistons forged
higher lift.longer duration cams
stiffer valve springs
skunk 2 manifold
port and polish head
anr headers
310cc injectors
then go get a super tune....
thats the super build

[2point6]

hahaha x2 i think scotts is one of the fastest all motor cars in az and he has a built h series and hes not even breaking 11's.

you would have to pretty muchly build your whole block and then get the head and oillines personally it sounds like a pain in the ass unless your going to bore it out with aftermarket high comp pistons rods and all that i would just get a vtec engine to start with find a gsr or a b16.

Thanks for the vouch, but my Civic has run 11.57 @ 116. Not the fastest, but we will be. As far as I know the IPH crx's were the fastest NA (claimed here in AZ) but I lost all respect for the NA claims after seing the hidden nitrous bottle first hand.

[Wholesaler]

Thanks for the vouch, but my Civic has run 11.57 @ 116. Not the fastest, but we will be. As far as I know the IPH crx's were the fastest NA (claimed here in AZ) but I lost all respect for the NA claims after seing the hidden nitrous bottle first hand.

Yea, that was a very cleaver lil n20 setup

[2point6]

i feel asleep before i got done with the parts list.
ls rod blots
apr head studs
oem ls 90-01 b18c head gasket,new
acl ls bearings
shotpeen ls rods
oem ls piston rings
oem valve seals
hone cylinders
gsr water pump p72
gsr timing belt p72
gsr96+ b series oil pump
magnetic oil drain plug
oem ngk v power b16 spark plugs
11.5.1 compression
2.5 header cat back or 3 if turbo
intake mainfold gasket
cam gears cause ls vtec is always slightly off.
200+ power listen...
p30 b16 pistons forged
higher lift.longer duration cams
stiffer valve springs
skunk 2 manifold
port and polish head
anr headers
310cc injectors
then go get a super tune....
thats the super build

Sorry eddie, but you are telling a lie here... 11.5/1 comp will not get you over 200 whp... sorry, but it's not going to happen. A typical 11.5/1 comp NA LSVTEC will net you 170-180 whp. If your head is ported exceptional, then may be closer to 200 whp, but even so this so called "super build" will not get you into the 11's.

[kawgomoo]

getting into the 11's isnt all about the motor. especially on an n/a car. there is absolutely no mention on how much the car weighs. what was done for traction etc. not to say i believe anyones claims, but still there needs to be more specifics before you can credit or discredit his claim.

NEVER upgrade rod bolts without having the rod big end resized. same goes for main bolts. studs have higher tq rating which makes the holes elliptical. they need to be resized at the new torque value.

all these guys are talking about spending stupid money. get any ole vtec head, get a cometic head gasket made for ls/vtec combo you end up with. repin the dowels or get those adapter ones.

the only thing that makes power in a na car is the compression and the volume of air/fuel that can flow into the cylinder during any given valve opening. an engine is just an air pump the easier and more efficiently it can get air in and out of the engine the more power it will make.

if you plan to replace the valve springs use any old head, if you want to use the stock stuff i recomend an obd1 or 2 instead of obd0 head... just due to the age of the springs.

static compression is not a true measure of the compression in the cylinder of a running engine. your cam choice and degreeing will affect the dynamic compression greatly.

jason hunt ran an ls/vtec crix with a bottle and nothing else in the 10's for years. you can too.

[2point6]

getting into the 11's isnt all about the motor. especially on an n/a car. there is absolutely no mention on how much the car weighs. what was done for traction etc..

You are right, but I was going to let him explain those things. I wanted my first questions answered, which haven't been...

Just a question for you... because you seem to know a lot more than I for what it takes to run 11's NA, what did you do?

[no2psi]

Thanks for the vouch, but my Civic has run 11.57 @ 116. Not the fastest, but we will be. As far as I know the IPH crx's were the fastest NA (claimed here in AZ) but I lost all respect for the NA claims after seing the hidden nitrous bottle first hand.

Tell me more about the hidden bottle!
Anyways I grew up in Sierra Vista. Buena High School blah blah blah.
I was just waiting for him to say that he ran 11's all motor with a 1.8 street car pump gas
in Sierra Vista. LOL!
Forgetting Sierra Vista has mile high elevation!
You dont have to lie to kick it buddy.

[2point6]

Tell me more about the hidden bottle!
Anyways I grew up in Sierra Vista. Buena High School blah blah blah.
I was just waiting for him to say that he ran 11's all motor with a 1.8 street car pump gas
in Sierra Vista. LOL!
Forgetting Sierra Vista has mile high elevation!
You dont have to lie to kick it buddy.

Haha... Dave I wish you had been there to see the bottle, then you would have felt the way I did. Totally let down. I have videos that show IPH Dave's crx running 11.0 here in Tucson and they brought down a silver crx that went 11.3. Both were very very respectable for "back in the day". It wasn't till I went to look at a header Randy (RMF) was making me when he popped the "spring loaded" stock cover to access the old fuel pump from inside the car and there it was... a "sneaky pete". This was intentional to show me what could be done with a very little shot of N20. The underside was flat aluminum, so there was no way to see the bottle. I was almost crushed because I respected those cars so much and to find out one was a running a 30 shot... it broke my heart. From that point I decided I was going to do it without the help of persons who were so willing to give me that little extra...
Anyway, Dave (no2psi) as far as I know you had the fastest NA "street car" that I heard of around this state, running I believe 11.82 @ 116. I believe that was run against me at NOPI a couple years back, right? and here comes these guys with claims of running 11s with a very basic set-up. BULLSHIT! I do know of the "Jods" CRX from Nogales that has run 12.0 @ 109 here in Tucson, and he is running a LSVTEC, but that is an Erick's Racing built engine not a basic LSVTEC like the one listed above.

[92hndahatch]

Thanks for the vouch, but my Civic has run 11.57 @ 116. Not the fastest, but we will be. As far as I know the IPH crx's were the fastest NA (claimed here in AZ) but I lost all respect for the NA claims after seing the hidden nitrous bottle first hand.

oh yeah sorry i forgot you got the motor in the hatch now. i was thinking accord still.

but yeah no way you got a ls vtec running 11's all motor with out a fully built block and head and a weight reducted car, so dont be making up excuses that arent true it makes you sound dumb

[fmx_dbc]

I did a compression check on my cylinders to see where I'm at and I got a result of 185 psi on all 4 cylinders. Is this a good compression result for a 91 LS B18A with 100,000+ miles?

[fmx_dbc]

bump

[fmx_dbc]

bump
any help?

[kawgomoo]

i dont run na, much less 11's. my car was a pathetic 490whp 1st gen eclipse best 11.76

my buddy runs 12 flat all day long in a 95 civic coupe. street trim with slicks. built to the ever elusive "endyn" specs back in the day. i havent raced a honda in nearly 5 years. it wouldnt be out of reach for a lightweight car with the traction all sorted out to run in the 11's on pump gas. the key is getting just the right amount of traction. too little you spin too much you bog. he ran those 9.5" small slicks. and generally could drive his ass off. you can probably find him on dragva.com or hondatech kids name is scott camp.

ive heard of alot of the pro teams shaking down n/a chassis with essentially stock engines running all over the 11's and low 12's

11 seconds is not that fast. its all about everything working together. chassis weight, gearing, tires, and most importantly the driver. alot of time is lost on people that cant shift well, cant launch well and dont spend the time to optimize every little thing.

[eddie12]

1st of all i ran with the fastest crew in california in 05 "ZERO LIMITS"2point 6..IF U WANNA CHECK THAT OUT AND ASK AROUND GO TO MERCEDIMPORTS.COM..they will all say i build the best motors in 209..i dont care where u work i ran my lsvtec all motor 12.9 with not even half those parts with super tune.3 months later turbo 10 pounds got me 11.8 the lsvtec that i built i put in an 88 crx it ran in california at cmi..sacramento..209...where the big boys play so dont question how i build motors if u wanna see what my 91 teg can do put ur money with ur mouth is pm.set up a race and well see what my new lsvtec build up runs..without boost or juice...

[2point6]

1st of all i ran with the fastest crew in california in 05 "ZERO LIMITS"2point 6..IF U WANNA CHECK THAT OUT AND ASK AROUND GO TO MERCEDIMPORTS.COM..they will all say i build the best motors in 209..i dont care where u work i ran my lsvtec all motor 12.9 with not even half those parts with super tune.3 months later turbo 10 pounds got me 11.8 the lsvtec that i built i put in an 88 crx it ran in california at cmi..sacramento..209...where the big boys play so dont question how i build motors if u wanna see what my 91 teg can do put ur money with ur mouth is pm.set up a race and well see what my new lsvtec build up runs..without boost or juice...

Before I own you in this thread, don't get all butt hurt. Running 11's all motor in CA is a bit easier to do than where I live. I questioned you because your statement claiming that you built "3 LSVTEC engines that all ran 11s." You claimed it was all motor,

i have built 3 in the last 3 years and all have ran 11 at the track all motor...

but now you say it was on boost...

.3 months later turbo 10 pounds got me 11.8 the lsvtec that i built i put in an 88 crx it ran in california...

So running 11's on boost makes even more sense. Clarify your statements and there is no question at all.

I congratulate you on your expert engine building qualities, that have gotten you renowned status in the "209", but you are in AZ now... so, who are you now? Nobody...Anybody. Don't take that the wrong way, but prove yourself here in AZ, then you will get my respect and I am sure others as well.

I am happy to oblige you in an "all motor" race at the track. I will put $500 up, right now. If you beat me under NHRA rules for Pro all motor, then you can have my money... straight up. Your Next oppritunity will be at SIR (Tucson) on Dec 28th 07, so if you can put a few bucks up let's do it.

[kawgomoo]

what are all the tracks in cali downhill?:poke:

[2point6]

i dont run na, much less 11's. my car was a pathetic 490whp 1st gen eclipse best 11.76

my buddy runs 12 flat all day long in a 95 civic coupe. street trim with slicks. built to the ever elusive "endyn" specs back in the day. i havent raced a honda in nearly 5 years. it wouldnt be out of reach for a lightweight car with the traction all sorted out to run in the 11's on pump gas. the key is getting just the right amount of traction. too little you spin too much you bog. he ran those 9.5" small slicks. and generally could drive his ass off. you can probably find him on dragva.com or hondatech kids name is scott camp.

ive heard of alot of the pro teams shaking down n/a chassis with essentially stock engines running all over the 11's and low 12's

11 seconds is not that fast. its all about everything working together. chassis weight, gearing, tires, and most importantly the driver. alot of time is lost on people that cant shift well, cant launch well and dont spend the time to optimize every little thing.

Either way I think that is more than respectable for the Eclpise. I would not call that pathetic in any way.

As far as my question to you running 11's...

I agree that all needs to work together... efficiency is key when you run NA. That is why I questioned eddie here. There are very few all motor cars running those times here in AZ.
I have no doubt there are people who have done it elsewhere. Running 11's all motor here in AZ, now that's respectable.

[2point6]

what are all the tracks in cali downhill?:poke:

If you are commenting on me saying it is "easier to run faster times in CA', it was in relation to altitude... which makes a bit of difference.

[2point6]

I did a compression check on my cylinders to see where I'm at and I got a result of 185 psi on all 4 cylinders. Is this a good compression result for a 91 LS B18A with 100,000+ miles?

Yes, that sounds pretty good. Sorry for jacking your thread.

[kawgomoo]

yeah alt. matters, but we are only 1650 ft here. even our alcy banshees tuned here dont need rejets when at sea level, and if there was ever a more finniky bitch than 140hp shee... i dont even want to know. baro matters too... that cali air is cooler but its wetter too. i think the big problem is the lack of decent tracks here in az. ive only been to speedworld or whatever it is up there in northwest phoenixish. that place is a fucking dump.

oh yeah compression sounds good, its more important that its even within 5% all across than the actual number. make sure you do compression test with the dizzy unhooked so you are not spraying fuel into the motor {wet test will bring up the compression} also make sure the throttle is wide open... not that i ever do it with the plate open, but if you get an odd reading its something to keep in mind.

[2point6]

yeah alt. matters, but we are only 1650 ft here. even our alcy banshees tuned here dont need rejets when at sea level, and if there was ever a more finniky bitch than 140hp shee... i dont even want to know. baro matters too... that cali air is cooler but its wetter too. i think the big problem is the lack of decent tracks here in az. ive only been to speedworld or whatever it is up there in northwest phoenixish. that place is a fucking dump.


Southwest International Raceway (SIR), here in tucson is at 3100 ft. I know that our times at Speedworld are typically about .4 sec faster than times run here in Tucson. Our best time with the Civic was 11.57 and that was run here in Tuscon. I am not going to claim my car is any faster than that at Speedworld, since woulda, coulda, shoulda... doesn't count.

SIR is actually a really good facility, just the high elevation is why people think it isn't so good. I think Speedworld is decent, but the track is a bit rough. Firebird is about the same, but the pits suck. Supposedly they re-paved the starting line, so hopefully that helps a little.

[kawgomoo]

yeah its tough to have a nice track out here... theres just soo many fucking people. lots of wear and tear on teh surface. not to mention all the broke pos's leaking a/f, oil and god knows what else all over the place.

last time i was at speedworld there were cracks all over the track, and all the blowing dust out here really makes it hard to keep the track tacky.

back home we have Virginia motorsports park. really nice facility. yeah yeah im homesick i admit it.

ive never been to tucson, but a buddy of mine from back home moved out there. if im in town the 28th ill cruise down and watch you guys run.

[no2psi]

Haha... Dave I wish you had been there to see the bottle, then you would have felt the way I did. Totally let down. I have videos that show IPH Dave's crx running 11.0 here in Tucson and they brought down a silver crx that went 11.3. Both were very very respectable for "back in the day". It wasn't till I went to look at a header Randy (RMF) was making me when he popped the "spring loaded" stock cover to access the old fuel pump from inside the car and there it was... a "sneaky pete". This was intentional to show me what could be done with a very little shot of N20. The underside was flat aluminum, so there was no way to see the bottle. I was almost crushed because I respected those cars so much and to find out one was a running a 30 shot... it broke my heart. From that point I decided I was going to do it without the help of persons who were so willing to give me that little extra...
Anyway, Dave (no2psi) as far as I know you had the fastest NA "street car" that I heard of around this state, running I believe 11.82 @ 116. I believe that was run against me at NOPI a couple years back, right? and here comes these guys with claims of running 11s with a very basic set-up. BULLSHIT! I do know of the "Jods" CRX from Nogales that has run 12.0 @ 109 here in Tucson, and he is running a LSVTEC, but that is an Erick's Racing built engine not a basic LSVTEC like the one listed above.


Wow, I had no idea about the bottle!
This guy is funny with his claims. I would love to get in on a race against his Integra. :thumbup:
Yea, I ran 11.82 at the NOPI event back in 06.
Should go a little faster with the new set up.
I did have a Pro all motor car back in the day. Around 1999 to 2003 or so.
Maybe you remember it.
Here is vid.

http://www.imagestation.com/4423875/4129999722

[pitbike.boy]

People who build 11 sec all motor cars dont put ebay suspensions on their rides.
Do you know some one who can tat a salamander or grenade on my booty??

[kawgomoo]

People who build 11 sec all motor cars dont put ebay suspensions on their rides.
Do you know some one who can tat a salamander or grenade on my booty??

ok thats random.. i have to admit im lost.


just because its on ebay doesnt mean its junk. i mean it more than likely is, but there was a good deal on there once...

so i heard.

[no2psi]

People who build 11 sec all motor cars dont put ebay suspensions on their rides.
Do you know some one who can tat a salamander or grenade on my booty??

Actually I do have some 40.00 ebay coilovers on the car right now.

[bobbbbbbbbbbo]

Actually I do have some 40.00 ebay coilovers on the car right now.

How are those working out for ya?

[kawgomoo]

a spring is a spring. all it does it hold up the weight of the car.... shocks are what do all the work...

[no2psi]

How are those working out for ya?

Ok.
The problem is that my sixty foots are inconsistent.
Anywhere from 1.55 to 1.79
I am in the process of upgrading right now.

[kawgomoo]

dang thats a pretty good 60 foot. my turbo teg had skunk 2's c/o's and autocross slicks. we got a best of 1.6's launching in 2nd.

anyone know when teh next event is here in phx? id love to see some of you guys run.

[no2psi]

dang thats a pretty good 60 foot. my turbo teg had skunk 2's c/o's and autocross slicks. we got a best of 1.6's launching in 2nd.

anyone know when teh next event is here in phx? id love to see some of you guys run.

Yea, when it hooks it really hooks.
Just dont know when its gonna be! ha ha
I will be headed to the track in a week or 2 or when ever my new gears show up.
I bought a YS1 tranny that turns out to be a LS instead of a GSR.
GRRRR!!!!!!! :pissed:

[kawgomoo]

lol aint that a bitch.... only good thing about runnin turbo. the cheap trannies wide gearing works well :)

lemme guess, you got it off ebay..:bananaman:

[no2psi]

lol aint that a bitch.... only good thing about runnin turbo. the cheap trannies wide gearing works well :)

lemme guess, you got it off ebay..:bananaman:


no, i bought off a friend. Who bought from Josh Brown over at Science of Speed. My friend Tyler took care of me on the deal by giving me some money back. So I bought a trashed b16 hydro and took some gears out of that, and bought a sleeve set thru work, and bought a 3.070 first gear. Turned out to be a pain in the arse but i think my gears ratios will be awesome when im done.

[redwidow]

a spring is a spring. all it does it hold up the weight of the car.... shocks are what do all the work...

very true I got Ebay coil overs and kyb's adjustable shocks and my car feels very firm.