alarm and door lock problem

[Jenni]

Got sent to this forum by rufus....
anyone in the area wanna help me figure out what my friend Chris fucked up when helping me install an aftermarket alarm?

[f23a1]

well what is going on maybe i can help

[Jenni]

well what is going on maybe i can help

Well, the door itself is all fucked up (not literally).
Essentially, I have a lock and unlock button that is only on the driver side door.
The passenger side locks and unlocks just fine with that button, but the driver side does the exact opposite of what the switch should make it do (unlocks when I press lock, and locks when I press unlock).

NOW... I tried to install a car keyless entry/remote start/alarm.... and my friend did not put a set of wires in.... and I have no idea where or how to hook them up. (I have wired a car stereo, but nothing this complex.)

In the mean time, my car wont unlock with the keyfob (doesn't even make a mechanical noise in the doors when I press it....), the car will remote start just fine, and the alarm goes off too well (because it goes off every 30secs).

The wiring in the manual is horrible.... BUT this is what it kinda says for the set of wires that my friend didn't install:
Wire #1: Car door, switch of engine top (Activating of Negative)
Wire #2: Power Window
Wire #3: Connect to Lock head "Key On" position (Activating of Positive)
Wire #4: Connect to the Relay (Negative Output)
Wire #5: Red foot brake (Positive Output)

[Jenni]

Any help pleas?

[f23a1]

i need to know what alarm you/ your friend tryed to put in and what car it is going into.. i have hooked up 12+ stereos and 15-20 alarms some with remote starts... if you were in tucsin i could take a look at it for you... but i will try to help you as much as i can

[Jenni]

i need to know what alarm you/ your friend tryed to put in and what car it is going into.. i have hooked up 12+ stereos and 15-20 alarms some with remote starts... if you were in tucsin i could take a look at it for you... but i will try to help you as much as i can

I believe it was a tamarack alarm? (off eBay)
And I've got a 2001 Honda Civic EX Coupe.

The more ironic part is that I was planning on going to Tucson to visit family this past Saturday... hah....... Can't go again until the weekend though. (But then I'd have to plan it around Gay Pride.... x.x)
If you can give any advice or pointing, I'd appreciate it.

Also, I got it to stop alarming every 30seconds. My friend didn't install wiring that indicated to the alarm that the car was on...... so it fixed the alarming every 30 secs while driving problem:clapper:
My car still auto locks every 30 seconds while the car is off and sitting, and I have a door open. But I don't know where to wire in the senor wire at..... :( (two doors... the wire for my driver side door is green, and the wire for passenger side is light green/red....... so if I hook the door open sensor from my alarm to only the solid green wire at my door... will it still auto lock when the passenger door is open?) So then, do I hook it up to both wires? And are they both easily accessible near like... the under driver dash fuse box or soemthing!?!? :sad1:
ALSO.... the last problem is that my doors wont unlock with the keyfob. (You don't even hear the accuators kick in when I press the unlock button... just the alarm beeping once for disengaging)
I'm sure my friend just messed up that wiring..... x.x but I don't want to tackle it while I'm busy working through the week.

Alot to take in, and lots more questions I know........ BUT I learn quickly and easily......... so use lamen-ish terms, and I can follow you without a problem! :grin:
And f23a1, if you feel like you don't want to type this shit up... just call me or have me come see ya this weekend. :poke:
P.S. - PM me for my number... =D

[Jenni]

Also... here is the link to the alarm I bought on eBay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=380010239837
(Yes.... I still know I probably fucked up by buying such a cheap alarm...)

[f23a1]

this is the wiring for your car.. if you have a test light test the Door Trigger wires by opening and closeing the door you might have to try + and if you get nothing try - but i think there - if you find one that will wouk for every door use that.. i had to use 3 wires for my 92 civic hatch.. i just took all 3 wires and made them go to one then conected them to the door trugger wire on the alarm... your car is arming when the doors are open becouse the alarm is not seeing the door trigger + it sounds like the alarm is set to active arming.. i like active arming but if you want to change it.. the info chould be in your operation manual... if there is any way you could find me a link or some how get me a copy of your instalation manual that would help.... as for your door locks trere should be a plug with 2/3 wires on it that plug into the alarm one wire green the other red and maybe a black.. (look in your instalation manual) this is how it should be hooked up....

This is one of the most common type of door lock switch configurations found in most vehicles. In most cases you will not need to add relays for this type. Most of the newer alarms and keyless entries on the market today have both positive and negative 200 ma door lock outputs that are usually capable of activating the factory relays. Should you need to add relays for a "3 wire negative" door lock system, just change both normally open terminals (87) from 12V(+) to ground. If your alarm or keyless entry has positive outputs only, you will have to connect the other side of the coils to ground and connect your outputs as shown. The lock and unlock wires below refer to the switch wires, not the motor legs.
http://www.the12volt.com/12voltimages/3wireposlocks.gif
i hope that will kind of help

Battery (+): WHT + IGNITION HARNESS
Starter 1: BLK/WHT + IGNITION HARNESS
Ignition 1A(+): BLK/YEL IGNITION HARNESS
Ignition 2A(+): BLK/RED + IGNITION HARNESS
Accessory (+): WHT/RED + IGNITION HARNESS
Tach Sensor: BLU AC AT CONNECTOR NEXT TO BATTERY
Door Trigger: GRN/RED DRIVERS KICK PANEL
Trunk Trigger: BLU/BLK - DRIVERS KICK PANEL
Parking Lights: RED/BLK + TO RIGHT OF STEERING COLUMN
Headlights: BLU/RED - AT HEADLIGHT SWITCH
Pwr Door Lock: WHT/BLU - DRIVERS FUSE PANEL
Pwr Door Unlock: WHT/GRN - DRIVERS FUSE PANEL
Horn: ORG - STEERING COLUMN
DR. Mtr Unlck: YEL/GRN + DRIVERS FUSE PANEL
DR. Motor lock: YEL/BLK + DRIVERS FUSE PANEL
OEM Anti-theft: TRANSPONDER
Anti-Theft System: RF ACTIVATED SYS.
Neutral Safety: LT GRN - DRIVERS FUSE PANEL
Brake: WHT/BLU + AT BRAKE SWITCH
Reverse Lights: GRN + DRIVERS FUSE PANEL
Speed Sensor: BLU/WHT AC PIN 25 AT PCM BEHIND FUSEBOX

or try this one
Wire/Function Colour Location/Description Polarity
PASSIVE ANTI-THEFT YES TRANSPONDER SEE NOTES
12 VOLTS White In ignition switch harness +
IGNITION Black/yellow In ignition switch harness +
ACCESSORY Black/red In ignition switch harness +
STARTER Black/white In ignition switch harness +
KEY SENSE Red/white On 16-pin green connector above driver's kick -
This is the factory alarm connector and is present even if vehicle has no factory security.

TACH SIGNAL Blue At tach test connector AC
This plug is located on the passenger side of the engine compartment between the battery and the headlight. Set your remote starter for 4 cylinders.

FUEL INJECTOR Opposite of Yellow/black At any injector on engine AC
LOCK White/blue/2 sil. Dots On 20-pin gray connector above driver's kick -
These wires require up to 750 milliamps to activate. Some products do not have strong enough doorlock outputs for this. You may need to install relays to provide a stronger ground. See the diagram in the available graphics.

UNLOCK White/green/2 sil. Dots On 20-pin gray connector above driver's kick -
These wires require up to 750 milliamps to activate. Some products do not have strong enough doorlock outputs for this. You may need to install relays to provide a stronger ground. See the diagram in the available graphics.

DOORPIN SEE NOTES
GREEN is driver's door, LT.GREEN/RED is passenger door. GREEN/WHITE catches rear doors. All wires are found on the green 16-pin connector above the driver's kickpanel. This is the factory alarm connector and is present even if vehicle has no factory security.

TRUNK PIN Red/2 sil. Dots On 16-pin green connector above driver's kick -
This is the factory alarm connector and is present even if vehicle has no factory security.

BRAKESWITCH White/black On 4-pin plug at brake pedal +
PARKLIGHTS Red/black In harness clipped to left side of fusebox +
HAND BRAKE Green/orange/1 sil. Dot In harness running above diag. plug under dash -
HORN Orange/2 sil. Dots On 16-pin green connector above driver's kick -
This is the factory alarm connector and is present even if vehicle has no factory security.

DRIVER WINDOW UP Red/black At 20-pin plug on switch in driver's door REV POL
DRIVER WINDOW DOWN Red/yellow At 20-pin plug on switch in driver's door REV POL
PASSENGER WINDOW UP Blue/red On 20-pin gray connector above driver's kick REV POL
PASSENGER WINDOW DOWN Blue/white On 20-pin gray connector above driver's kick REV POL
LEFT REAR WINDOW UP Brown/white On 20-pin gray connector above driver's kick REV POL
LEFT REAR WINDOW DOWN Brown On 20-pin gray connector above driver's kick REV POL
RIGHT REAR WINDOW UP Blue/orange On 20-pin gray connector above driver's kick REV POL
RIGHT REAR WINDOW DOWN Brown/yellow On 20-pin gray connector above driver's kick REV POL
HEADLIGHTS Red/yellow In harness on right of steering column +
You can also find a BLUE/RED (-) for the headlights on the green 16-pin security connector taped up behind dash above the kickpanel.

VSS WIRE Blue/white At cruise module above kickpanel
TRANSPONDER IGNITION Yellow/black At 7-pin plug on Ignition switch assembly +
TRANSPONDER DATA 1 Red/blue Pin-2 at 7-Pin connector DATA
TRANSPONDER GROUND Brown/yellow Pin-1 at 7-Pin connector -

[Jenni]

Awesome! Best info from anyone so far!!!
I'll be looking at that stuff as soon as I get my car out of warranty repairs........ BUT that'll be by Friday, and by then I'll be able to understand every stich of what you posted =D
I understand the unlock and lock things I will have to look at, and I now understand where it is I need to tap into the door wires.... I'll even take a look for that trunk release wiring, because that would be nice........... and convenient. Thanks a bunch!
Be sure you leave that up for anyone else.... cuz that is some good info.

[f23a1]

your welcome if you need more help just let me know

[f23a1]

did you fix it

[Jenni]

I actually had my car in for warranty repairs for over a week.... just got her back last wed. I haven't gotten to the rest of the alarm yet....
so my alarm still goes off because it doesn't sense the doors yet.
I really need to get under there and fix that before it drives me NUTS!

Do you happen to know how to jump the 4 little connectors to bypass the clutch?
I understand what that means, and the potential danger there is doing it.
But since I started driving (which I started off with a manual), I always parked with my emergency brake on, and the stick in neutral.
My friend did it, but ya...... shitty work (the jump wire he made for it fell off).
If you don't want to tell me, that's ok.