^dude that sucks, if you had an f or h I'd have a pan for you all day long lol

There is an error in your math.

I think you're right lol my chicken scratch math made the 8 look like a 3. The static CR would be about 0.8 higher with the longer rods, not the 0.3 as I stated above. But again the ratio isn't a deciding factor for me when I look at the gained room for error and reliability gained with sticking with my shorter rods.

By my calculations you are going to be around 6.8/1 compression with the piston in the hole .040". That is assuming you are using a 1.2 cc dome piston that would have been intended for a stock f22 @ 9/1 compression. Unless you are using a much larger dome cc... which you may be, then your original numbers are off or something else is wrong.

I suppose it doesnt matter what i say... you have made up your mind about the shorter rods, so all i can do is make my suggestions and wish you the best on this project. In my opinion you could do a lot better but its your engine, time, and money. I respect that.

Hmm no I think mine are pretty accurate, if i switched rods with the above math I would be pushing it more with the pistons 0.020 above the deck, same as I was before I found out my block was warped. I had no problem then with running a 0.050 head gasket but I also took some off the head when it got resurfaced and I feel I'm just further screwing myself. I would just much rather not even let it be an issue and accept the fact that I screwed this one up from the get go. Chalk it up as a lesson learned and play it safe from here on out so I know all the time and money vested won't end me in a heap of broken parts. But I was curious as to what compression calculator you were using? I was using this one

all my leaks are making me mad fix 1 gain 1 lol and have you dropped this motor in your car yet? and how far r u u into it
and who's a good honda mech i can trust to fix the leaks i'm done cranking on this thing for a min

I'm not done putting it together yet, I do it on my days off so ill start wrenching on it Tuesday probably. I have to pick up a few gaskets too. As for a mechanic, I don't know of anyone in the Buckeye area. But his site is full of helping hands.

i noticed, its nice , so you bringing your ride to speed worls next month

I doubt ill have it boosted by then but you never know! I'm getting my wastegate Tuesday then ill need to order a BOV and Hondata MAP sensor then I can take it to AFI and have them do the piping. Are you going?

i'm real good friends with ricccc or how ever he wrote it down lol so i'm going to be there i just have to fix all my efffin leaks fixed and if i can my some coilovers trade my plus 10 dr27s for something i can tuck try to lay frame and make it to speed world if not i'll still be there just wont like the stance and all but good luck and hope you can make it there and we can have a drink or so

i wsh i could upload my car pix i dropped alo of time in this ride just to have it piss on my driveway damn accord lol

Hit up EFfective. He is a honda tech that can fix whatever you need done.

sent from my vtec popping droid

That would be great, Its far for me but to get to chill with some cool Honda guys I'd be down.

You should bring your ride too jaque

Let's keep this thread free of non Rza bizzness.
I'm saying your choice of rod and crank combo are not the best. Not saying the parts you have are no bueno. You know better than most what you have. I'm just stating my opinion. Enjoy your build and I'd love to see this thing running some day. But as stated before, couldve been done differently. That's it.

Yeah I hear you on that. Don't get me wrong I would like to use the h rods but I don't want to use them under the conditions I put myself in. Good thing for me all is not lost and I can still easily make my desired power with what I have, just not the best way of doing it. I'll get em next time coach! Lol

so how much longer you got til it in your car and running

looking nice i want to see it running lol :)

I'll post a vid of it on the dyno when the time comes

Put the engine in yesterday, took me four hours because my driver side CV decided it wanted to pop out and it was a pain to get out. I ended up having to drop the whole control arm to make enough clearance for it to come out. After I rebuilt it everything was good again. I did end up breaking one of my plugs that goes by the resistor box, that took me a few minutes to figure out the order of the wires.
I started it up and she idles nicely, but is rough around 2000-2750. I know I have a sensor issue and timing issue. I still need to order a timing gear to get myself back on track, and I'm gonna play with my S300 today and check out the sensors.

I'm impressed :thumbsup:

Great. So I should see this thing at our lil meet in April. Good to see some of us finishing up our projects!

Engine looking goo man

I hope I have that day off. My schedule blows but I will be at the Casa Grande meet on April 7th, it would be great if you came but its kinda far for you though lol.

Thank you sir.

can't wait to see the car dude!

Thanks Billy, I just can't wait to get it boosted.

sorry to bring up an older thread but i was hoping the op might chime in on this and maybe some others that have built an f. i had to get a new bottom end as i bent a rod and messed up my crank in the a6. but ne ways i found a dsm and pulled what i could and im going turbo now. ive read alot of stuff as far as what i need and what not but i was curious as to one thing i never heard ne one talk about. but would i benefit at all by removing the oil orfice thingy on the block? ill be running a t off the back where the oil sensor is to feed the turbo. would this help with better oil preasure or will it not make a difference? or would it hurt me?