Got car sputtering/P1298 code on my 2000 integra
 

I thought one of my hid lights were going bad as only one was working...disconnected both inverters...tried to run on high beams, and car started sputtering reminding me of an old crx project/head being warped. Haven't done a compression test yet. Tho had my alternator tested twice and passed. Relatively new battery is being charged at vato zone...from the code I got I reckon is the electric load detector going faulty? I can hear my car's main relay prime the fuel pump. But, not enough juice to start the car. So I push start it...and drop the clutch in reverse, and can maintain it fluttering the gas pedal making it pop/sputter. What is going on? I got a new O2 sensor to replace the secondary I destroyed awhile back hitting a dip not paying attention as my car is slightly lowered. BTW: my car is a salvaged 2000 integra gsr w/ B18B1 motor and LS trans/obdII ecu. So As I was trying to figure out whats wrong with my car or needing to be replaced I got an interesting slue of codes: P0135, P1298, P0500, and P0141. FYI I once upon a time had an issue w/ a no spark issue hired a lot of 2nd hand help/did the shotgun deal buying/replacing parts like changing CKF/crank shaft position sensor, distributor, etc. To no avail till I followed the shop manual "ICM" input test that had me check for continuity behind the cluster, etc not sure what I did or how I fixed it, but after doing that test my car fired up fine/had spark at the wires...do you guys think it could be a loose connection again possibly behind the cluster? Or have had experience, and can say for sure changing under the hood fuse box(eld) would fix my car's problem running the battery low? Btw: not sure what the current battery voltage was before taking it in to get it charged. But, I will invest in a volt meter as I misplaced my old one...:( it seems as if the cluster/window motors have low voltage...but alternator tested fine twice... Please help ppl

FYI: from searching online for this problem, and azht threads I've checked, and even swapped fuse #15 w/ another 7.5amp thread.

The same night my car broke down per se...the speedometer a 1/2hr before wasn't working my friend said I didn't think much of it....could all these problems simply be loose behind the cluster connections? Again as it was once were I had no spark at the plugs and tried everything including replacing the ckf sensor, timing belt, coil, distributor...and figured out was loose cluster connections...anyone?

Found this video on replacing the eld...
Reading the comments I too was told I have to buy the whole fuse box...I don't get it. I hate changing parts not knowing, or being sure how to properly diagnose the prob. The whole shotgun effect irks me as I've been there done that. Guess I'm going to check cluster connections behind. As my spedometer stopped working shortly before it started sputtering approx 45min b4 the headlights started going out. And going to check my coil (ohms/resistance) pack I replaced two years ago w/one from penny pincher auto parts for $15. Lol

sounds like a bad ground wire behind the dash causing these symtopms

Behind the dash? I know on the civic the engine harnes rubbed and grounded out on the intake bracket....
I just did a bswap on my civic and the harness is all hacked throwing eld high, o2 and vss... may need a new engine harness...

did fuse 15 blow again?