G22 build ... help with info and the right parts
 

ok so i have a cb7 with a stock f22a1 engine and i want to do a g22 swap with a h22a head but i have a few questions on what i will need.

first off the piston bore on my block is 85.00mm but the h22 has a 87mm bore is that a problem??

seconds will i need a new ecu ?

third, where can i get eagle rods and whats the best low compression pistons for a f22 block

fourth, should i use the same tranny or can i install a h22 tranny with shorter gears.

i dont want to do any machine work on my block (i dont want to take it out), its also my DD

but my goal for this, is to hit at least 500+hp with turbo

so if anyone on here has done a g22 swap can you please give me some pointers

(please leave all negative comments out)

The bore difference won't be a problem.

ECU, well, yes you would need one to get it tuned.

You can get eagle rods everywhere for $300

As far as compression, I would stick with 9.5

Trans, you will make lots of torque so you could probably stick with the stock trans, but they are long gears.

Your going to have to hone the block for the new pistons but, you can do it at home.

Good luck, not too much info on it, and who knows if the sleeves will hold that much power.

thanks you kind sire.. info helps a lot

My opinion... you are going to go through a lot of effort for the g22 build. Honestly you can make the same power or more with what you have already. Trust me I know a thing or 2 about the F22. There is more potential with the cylinder head you already have. Also, don't even worry about the "old school" thinking of low compression and turbo. Tuning is key and there is no longer a reason to build a "lazy" engine with low compression.

If anyone wants to dispute what I am saying, go for it. I have examples that stand solidly on their own.

^^^^ This mans absolutely right son. I've built several H22's, H23's, F22's and a hybrid G23 and the stock F22 head is a better head for a forced induction application. The way the valve angles are designed in the F22 head allows for more aggressive lifts than a DOHC head. Just cause the DOHC head has vtec doesn't make it the best. Just get a better intake manifold and some nice port work and your golden. The stock 8.8:1 cr is low enough. When you put the H22 head on the F block it drops even lower. Use a compression calculator to determine what your CR will be once you have your parts. Then get back to us.

I would do as Scott suggested and stick with the F22 and build it up.

mmmmm.. but arent twins better then having one girl?

now i have another problem my car is miss firing right now .. for example if my car is sitting on N it doesnt stay at a steady RPM . it rises and drops but very little like two lines . but when i try and go it starts to shake a little and kinda wants to choke up on me.... back story on the engine { monday morning i changed the valve gaskets because there was oil inside the sparkplug holes so when i did that i checked the spark plugs and they were covers in oil and all burnt up and black with rust. after i changed out the seals i cleaned all the holes , spark plugs and wires and put it all back together and it ran fine. but then yesterday night when i wasnt about to go home i turned my car on and it idled fine but once it warmed up and i tried to leave my car started to shake a lot and wanting to die out on me. So today in the morning i drove it to autozone thinking it was only the sparkplugs because they were probably already gone (worse drive in my life). when i got there i changed them out and cleaned up any left over oil i didnt get. but when i put them back on and started the car it wasnt shaking anymore but when i tried to to rev it a little it shook an it felt like it wanted to die out once i let go of the gas (when the rpm dropped). so i took them out again and checked everything an it was fine but now i think it might just be the wires ( i hope) but if im wrong what do you guys think it can be? also when im driving it at a steady rpm it wants to choke up on me but it doesnt. say im at 2000 rpm and then it slowly drops to 1800 an goes back up again.

I'm currently building one right now. Very bad idea sticking new pistons into an old block. Honing will not do the job period. 500 hp motor needs to be solid if you plan on it lasting more then a month. Even with new pistons jammed in a 100k + mile bore only time will tell when those piston skirts are chewed up.

Miss fires check compression, leak down, valve adj, cap rotor, coil, ignitor, tdc sensor will all cause a missfire. High milles check compression and leak down first. Quick and easy, isolate that before you start spending money on tune up parts.

Omg a motor will actually be shipped from you? Amazing

i havent started the build yet, i was planning on just getting a new block that has been fully rebuild with zero miles.

i already checked all that and the problems stayed. but a buddy of mine says my CAT might be clogged. which makes kinda sense because there's air leaking out of it and it never use to do that so today im going to pull it apart and check it an maybe just run straight pipe for now.

No updates?