Door Speaker Help
 

So both my speakers in my doors are sounding "off" I was hoping someone with expertise and free time could help me get it all working properly again...let me know...

Explain off? Stock speakers? Sound blown? Scratchy? One side louder than the other? one side seems delayed?

If not stock, amped? Crossover(s)? Bass blockers? Ground loop isolator?

Could be a simple adjustment, speaker replacement, bad ground or even a shorted wire but need more info first.

I'll type it when I get to my pc...I posted this from Best Buy in a fit if rage lol

If this is not resolved in a couple weeks Joe, you can stop by my new house and I will take a look lol.

Ok,

I have Alpine Type-S Component 6.5 speakers in my door panels. The tweeters are run separately through their own analog crossover.

I went to get my subwoofer replaced and during the audio testing I found that my driver's side door speaker was not responding. Also, my passenger side door speaker does not sound like it is operating clearly. I am not sure if either of them were out of phase or not.

I do not have an amplifier for these speakers, they are being powered by the Head unit which is a 75w x 4.

If someone has the proficiency and confidence to assist me in taking off my door panels and troubleshooting this problem I would appreciate it and compensate accordingly

so your probably pushing 40w rms to speakers suggested for 80w rms each.

Everything else is stock? saw you mentioned sub, bose system or stock with a line out converter and aftermarket amp/sub?

I know it is underpowered, I just haven't wanted to wire up a whole other 4ch amp. Honestly it has been sounding really crisp on its own.

I have a Kenwood Monoblock 900w pushing 1 10" alpine Type R 10 in the back @1ohm

So there's an aftermarket amp pushing the fronts already? You said other 4ch amp just checking.

I've been trying to find a good time when i'd be able to check it out for you but im busy like 20/7 working two jobs right now.

I only have a monoblock amp for the sub, nothing else. nothing is pushing the fronts, but they still sound pretty crisp though, I have no idea what the door speaker stopped working.

Probally wire came loose. If ya want I can check it out.

I just really hate taking off my door panel is all

Door panels will have to come off. Basic troubleshooting says to bypass your stock speaker wire. White wires power your left door speakers and gray for the passenger door speakers. Get some scrap speaker wire and connect the white and gray wires directly to the crossover. Don't worry about making it look good. Just run a B-line from the dash to the crossovers. If it sounds fine then you need to rewire your speakers. While you're at it, you might as well just get an amp installed. The hardest thing will be getting the speaker wires from the trunk through the rubber boots in the door jambs.

T

Couldn't I use my stock speaker wire as a Taxi of sorts to route the newer speaker wire in?
Also, I have refrained from installing a 2nd amplifier because I didn't have any preferred place to mount it except to the back of my rear seat, which would look tacky unless someone was clever at routing wires.

My tweeters in the dash are separately hooked up to the crossover, they would not need an amplifier right?

So essentially I would have to buy an amp, amp kit, and speaker wire?

You have a passive setup, not an active. The amplifier would go before the crossover and would power the midwoofers and tweeters. Leave the stock speaker wires there unless you really feel the need to remove them. Yes you could tape the new wires to the old ones and yank the old ones out, pulling the new ones in. If you have a molex plug in the door jamb, you sometimes have to remove the door from the body, drill out a hole in the molex plug, and run the wire that way. I'm not sure about your specific car.

T

So If I have a 4channel amp, it will power my 2 door speakers, and my 2 sail panel speakers, how will my tweeters be involved in this?

Does the speaker wires for the door panels go to the crossover first then back to the door?

Signal goes like this. You will need to run RCA cables from the head unit back to the amplifier. A two-channel amplifier is all you need. The speaker wires go from the amp, routed through the door jambs, and to the crossover input terminals. Then you wire each midwoofer / tweeter to each crossover.

T

ok, the crossovers are already wired, so I can leave them alone right? Just changing the source from the HU to the amp?

Also, How come I only need a 2 channel and not a 4 channel if I have a dash tweeter, a door speaker, and a sail panel speaker on both sides?

After a simple search I came across this thread about point source:

Got any pix of this setup? Where are the tweets? Not sure why you have multiple speakers up front.

I basically replaced all my stock speakers with Alpine Type-S

my dash has 2 tweeters in it, one on each side by the windshield. They are currently Alpine type-s component tweeters, connected to a crossover.

my door panels each have a 6.5" alpine type-s speaker, the driver's side is currently not working and the passenger side quality is dismal.

my sail panels by the rear seats each have a 6.5" alpine type-S speaker and work excellent.

the sub is an alpine type-R 10" in a ported box with a monoblock kenwood amp powering it.

I do wonder if I had any of my speakers out of phase also

there is the speaker layout for my car and even how to remove them lol

Okay.. sail panel speakers are the rear speakers. Just remove them and sell them. I had to do some digging in my old CDs for this link...

Butchered archived version of an awesome tutorial....

I read that but realize it is from 2002

I have music that utilizes all 4 speakers, plus the fill is necessary, also my front speakers projected sound is blocked off partially by the dash and my legs.

from that thread: "Rears might not be nessasary, but they do create fill. if your running a four channel amp just offsett the gain to favor the front speakers. As for time delay, the delay is going to be so short it won't make a differance. If for some reason you can hear the time delay, alpine's new digital amps all have Digital time correction."

Car / home audio is to recreate the experience of going to a live show. Regardless if you go to a show in 2002 or 2011, you face the stage and the speakers are in front of you; there are no rear speakers in your favorite club, venue, stadium, etc. If you have enough power up front and the speakers will handle it, you will get all the reverberation you need from the angles in the rear of the car.

I do see that I could leave my rears hooked up to the head unit and leave them less powered than my fronts?

then I could use a cheaper 2channel amp for the front...would that work as well?

That was always my suggestion to people not wanting to get away from rear speakers. Just use your head unit power.

if my HU has a 75x4 output, could it be combined to 150x2? that would be ample power for the rear speakers.


how many installs have you done for amps and such including sound tuning/equalizing?

Your head unit is NOT putting out 75x4. Do not believe the marketing. Look at the size of a true 75x4 amp and tell me how they put all that in the size of a head unit, along with the cd player, preamp, tuner, etc. You cannot . Realistically you might get the equivalent of 15 or so watts per channel. Yeah, it will put out more power. What's the point of saying it will put out more power when the sound is already distorted by that point?

T