smoking after 350 miles on rebuilt gsr
 

Title pretty much explains it. So i have around 300 plus miles I'm still smoking. Did the recommended break in. And Been babying it and I still seem to be getting blow by and smoke out the exhaust. Changed the oil today no metal shavings still looked still looked like out had some life to the color. Oil is also pooling at the tip of the exhaust. . Specs on the build are
B18c swap. Fully rebuilt bottom end by Basko out in mesa.
Top end
P72 head new spring style LMA's
New oem dual valve springs . Also new valve stems
New honda oem gaskets & O rings
Standard bore 81mm honda piston rings
I do have my turbo installed but disconected the charge pipe so it does build boost.
Any help this is my first well done full rebuild and tear down .any advice would help

Do a compression and leak down test. Did you read the spark plugs?


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If you have oil in your exhaust that is bad news, on a nice rebuilt motor you shouldn't have smoke coming out at all. Do a leak down, it will tell you where your issues are.

Daaaang! This happened to me years ago..bad valve :(

Sounds like you are leaking oil through your valvestem seals most likely. Oil collecting on the tailpipe would suggest that cause typically if its going into the combustion chamber it would be soot and if it was the chamber it would take alot of oil to beable to not be burned and pool up. Are you noticing a significant drop in oil on your dipstick?

Were your new valves lapped? Did you have your valvestem seals knurled with new valve replacement? Check the plug to make sure its not burning in the chamber. Check your throttlebody and and intake for oil. Check your pcv valve for proper function.

Did both types of compression test the leak down reads no leak and compression still ran 180 across the 4 cyls. Valves were laped when i had the head machined . And its not like a significant pool of oil but it is enuff for me to see oil residue on the tip. No drop in oil pressure I check the oil regulary to see if theres a significant drop or at least noticable drop in oil. Spark plugs where fucking charred. So I replaced them made some differnce. I will retry the comressor leak down and see if its pushing through the rings or pvc vent.

Lol basko

No leaks, then i would definately pull exhaust manifold and check to see if you have wet oil build up in the ports. Also i would boroscope intake ports to see if you find oil. Also boroscope cylinders with the valves opened to see if you can see excessive oil on the stems to see which are leaking. You do stock or forged pistons?

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To big of oil feed to turbo? 180 compression? Is that normal for a rebuilt motor considering my bone stock gsr 95 gsr was mid to low 170s?

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During break in. What were a/f ratios? What break in did u do?

Fucking right all they did right was the hone and balnce

Since compression is good but plugs were 'charred' I would definitely suspect valve guides and/or seals. If the turbo was causing it the plugs would be clean.


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Scratch that was thinking of my old build current was 240 240 230 240. Will check the a/f in the morning doesnt smell rich tho. First start up reved set the rings let it idle for about an hour changed the oil
Then after 100 then another oil change today. The turbo has a small feed line not sure what size at the momment .

Bad turbo seals

we will do a compression test and do a a/f check tomorrow. i have the testers.

Debating on removing th e turbo . Only reason why was I ran some stock headers it b4 I thru my turbo back on and thats whe the smokeing came back. I rebuilt the turbo when I had my ls vtec swap on it and it there no oil drip on the outside comresser housing . But ill take it apart today while were doing the compression test .

you dont rev to set the rings... you dont let it idle for long periods either on a fresh motor....

Rev to set the valves my bad. . And wouldn't leting it idle be a lil better than straight driving. I mean with all the metal shivings and all. That was my asumption . Like I said first real build beside lsvtecs andd mini me swaps

load on the motor sets the rings into the cylinder walla... idling for extended times you will just ruin that

Start it up check for leaks, let it heat cycle shut down, change oil, go put a load in 5th. Done

Granted a/f are good and everything

You might also wanna cheap how your turbo return line is routed , I've had a problem like that and it turne dout the return line was way to long and bent so oil was going last the exhuast seals in the turbo back into the exhuast. After I fixed the line it was all good.

Update the compression test detected zero leaks . Cylder Compression test came looking about the same . The smoke seems to have decreased the more and more I drive it but im still getting oil residue at the exhaust. Its not like a pool at the tip like before now its like a light coat on the inside of the tip. Turbo seems to have a lil more shaft play than it did b4. Gonma take it apart and check the seals.A/F ratio was14.2. no visible leaks aside one very small drip that is at the corner of the block where the head and block meet .so i want to question my headgasket .but not sure what to think seeing how the compression test came out fine and ther is no water in my oil ..

true but oil in a cylinder can help you seal and get a good compression reading. ive seen a head gasket leak the same way you described. it was on a LS I helped a friend who broke a spark plug in his head and he didn't want to purchase a new head gasket to install the spare head I had. the result was it was leaking oil in the front corner. I didn't like it so I re-did the job w/new head gasket and fixed.
but like cray said if your letting it idle for long periods, and not putting load on your rings its not going to seal correctly.

Removed the turbo installed ae stock headers and exhaust piping not a fucking puff of smoke has been seen since

your welcome

Or bad return line/too much feed.

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Instead of starting a new thread ill just ask my question on this one. I recentlly instalelled a b20 in my civic and it idles ridiculously hight . As soon as i start it jumps to 2000rpm and when i stop to put it in neutral it still continues to idle. All my vacum hoses and checked for any leaks. I disconected the iacv and the car died could this be my problem.t

Might seem like a no brainer buti thought id ask, but did you check your throttle cable to make sure it wasn't to tight?

If it has a fitv (fast idle thermo valve) on the bottom side of the throttle body. Take off the cover plate on the firewall side, and make sure the plastic assembly is screwed in tight. If this doesn't make sense google it.

how is it rebuild if it stayed std? what your piston to wall clearance. did they hone it?