Arp vs Golden Eagle head studs
 

I'm looking to see if anyone on here has had experience with both of these manufacturers. Both seem to be about the same price and I have always used arp before. But the GE stud looks to be a bit beefier and has a Dog point bottom that's supposed to relieve pressure on the block. Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks. Oh this will be on a turbo LSV around the 500+hp mark.

I don't agree with the beefier comment, both are made of the same material and tensile rating.

Where did you read about this "dog point" helping relieve pressure in the block? I can't find any info on this

Arp is proven. If ge's studs are anything like their sleeves they are china junk.

whoa.. pretty sure their studs are made from

The GE's are way better then arp's IMO but the are pricey. They feel alot more solid when torquing them, and the are not coated to get a more accurate torque reading. Plus they have the dog point which allows the point of the stud to bottom out on the block instead of the threads bottoming out.

Heres what I read on the Golden Eagle studs...


"Made from 4340 material heat treated to 180 KSI minimum These Kits have been race proven and tested to over 1000 WHP! Golden Eagle head studs feature the "Dog Point " bottom the relieves stress from the stud and the block during clamping. This is F1 technology that is used in top rated motorsports worldwide. Golden Eagle head studs use the factory torque specs and sequence for much less block distrortion. ARP uses a torque spec that is WAY beyond the factory spec."

Coating as in what like a phosphate and oil coating? ARP and GE both give specs with lubricant added. You never torque a dry fastner


This to me sounds like they do some kind of relief to let air excape as the stud is inserted into the block.

Really? I always torqued my head studs dry, I just figured the lube was for special time. :smackself:

It's a black oxide coating on the threads, and is only there to prevent rust. It increases varience in torque readings from fastener to fastener, GE's dont have it.

From what I understood was that on the GE's the stud bottoms out on the "dog point" when installed into the block, instead of the treads running all the way down the stud and bottoming out like the arp's.

yup

I don't believe that. I doublt ARP would coat their fastners with a product that would affect torque ratings. And if it does, I'm sure it's calulated into their specifications. If that was truly an issue they would just use a substance like cosmoline that comes off with solvent easily

I think arp is tried and true for years past. GE just seems cheap and is a newer company. I'd never use any GE product for some reason it just seems like a generic company.

If so, then why do you think it's not used on rods bolts where the torque accuracy in much more important?

If you look at the link I posted, the products from that company are far from "generic."

Because the proper way to do rod bolts is with a stretch gauge anyhow.....

sure is....but you think everyone does that?

Interesting comment, but I'd like to hear the backstory, this isn't BWR crap we're talking about.

I have used both studs with no problems, and currently use the GE studs (which I feel are nicer, and are made by A1 I think) AND we use Golden Eagle sleeved blocks in all of our race cars currently. No problems, and obviously our cars probably make 3-4 times the power than those crappy single cams you're playing with. :)

Trust me, if they were junk, I wouldn't be running either of them, nor consistently making 1200+ horseypowers in multiple cars. We aren't sponsored by them, nor am I friends with them, but I buy what works, regardless of price.

Thank you gentlemen for all your input... I'm gonna go with the golden eagle studs. It's really nice to get opinions people, such as locash, who have had hands on experience with both pieces. And I am aware of the immaculate reputation that locash has and think very highly of his opinions. Once again thank you all.

I'm just a smartass that says whatever he wants. :)

Although it does help that I have a reputation for making these things fast. I break a few parts here and there as well..

I can assure you that Golden Eagle sleeves are NOT china junk. Everything is done in house at their facility in California, including the manufacturing of the sleeves themselves. They've probably been sleeving Honda blocks longer than most in the business.

I am BREATHLESS to hear what your experience with GE sleeves and their being "China junk" is. My guess is that it's just you running your mouth about something you don't know shit about, as usual, and perpetuating the rumors and outright bullshit that gets thrown out around here instead of giving REAL answers to someone like OP who is simply looking for answers from people who have actual experience with whatever the question was about. If you don't know, how about just not saying anything, huh?

Golden Eagle doesn't fuck around. Those guys know what they're doing and they know how to do it. I have dealt with them multiple times in the past and have nothing bad to say about them. Yes, sometimes their prices can be slightly higher than other options, but why shouldn't they be? They've done their due diligence to make sure their parts will serve their intended purpose, they have every right to name their price.

3-4 times more power..... Well that sure does sound like alot of power.
So Why are people saying paying for your tune is just paying for the hype....



Ps: all of y'all didn't have to come and make him look stupid now this silly child won't post anymore

Boom

Bam

Kapoww!!

A little late to the party

I like to make an entrance

I've never had any problems with GE parts, but haven't used their studs. I've always used ARP studs (for the last 10 years, or so) and they have never given me a single issue. I currently have ARP studs on my car and will continue to use them because I know I'm not the guinea pig.

If hype is why my cars are the fastest in the state, so be it.

Well hot damn!!:word:

Lol just like ksport right?