NASA AZ @ Firebird East - June 2-3, 2012
 

Registration is now open!

Register here -->

This will be ran under our famous early morning format which is start super early and be done and back home in the pool before the triple digit temps kick in. If you thought INDE was bearable temps, this event will be no different (besides getting up super early!).

We will feature all groups:

* HPDE1
* HPDE2
* HPDE3
* HPDE4
* Time Trial
* Time Attack
* Race Groups


Draft Schedule - NOT FINAL - Do not print

Saturday

0 4:00 AM n/a Gates Open for all
0 4:15 AM n/a Tech Opens
0 4:30 AM n/a Registration Opens
0 5:30 AM 5:40 AM 0:10 Mandatory Drivers Meeting at the NASA AZ trailer
1 6:00 AM 6:15 AM 0:15 Race Group Warm Up (combined)
2 6:15 AM 6:30 AM 0:15 TT (Small Bore)
3 6:30 AM 6:45 AM 0:15 TT (Big Bore)
4 6:45 AM 7:00 AM 0:15 HPDE3
5 7:00 AM 7:15 AM 0:15 HPDE1 & HPDE2 (combined)
6 7:15 AM 7:20 AM 0:05 Time Correction (extra time will be given to HPDE1 if not needed)
7 7:20 AM 7:35 AM 0:15 HPDE4
8 7:35 AM 7:45 AM 0:10 Race Group Qualify (Small Bore)
9 7:45 AM 7:55 AM 0:10 Race Group Qualify (Big Bore)
10 7:55 AM 8:05 AM 0:10 TT (Small Bore)
11 8:05 AM 8:15 AM 0:10 TT (Big Bore)
12 8:15 AM 8:30 AM 0:15 HPDE3
13 8:30 AM 8:45 AM 0:15 HPDE1 & HPDE2 (combined)
14 8:45 AM 9:00 AM 0:15 HPDE4
15 9:00 AM 9:20 AM 0:20 Race Group Qualifing race (Small Bore)
16 9:20 AM 9:40 AM 0:20 Race Group Qualifing race (Big Bore)
17 9:40 AM 9:55 AM 0:15 HPDE3
18 9:55 AM 10:05 AM 0:10 TT (Small Bore)
19 10:05 AM 10:15 AM 0:10 TT (Big Bore)
20 10:15 AM 10:30 AM 0:15 HPDE4
21 10:30 AM 10:45 AM 0:15 HPDE1 & HPDE2 (combined)


Sunday

0 4:00 AM n/a Gates Open for all
0 4:15 AM n/a Tech Opens
0 4:30 AM n/a Registration Opens
0 5:30 AM 5:40 AM 0:10 Mandatory Drivers Meeting at the NASA AZ trailer
1 6:00 AM 6:15 AM 0:15 Race Group Warm Up (combined)
2 6:15 AM 6:30 AM 0:15 TT (Small Bore)
3 6:30 AM 6:45 AM 0:15 TT (Big Bore)
4 6:45 AM 7:00 AM 0:15 HPDE3
5 7:00 AM 7:15 AM 0:15 HPDE1 & HPDE2 (combined)
6 7:15 AM 7:30 AM 0:15 HPDE4
7 7:30 AM 7:55 AM 0:25 NASA Main Points Race (Small Bore)
8 7:55 AM 8:25 AM 0:30 UMS Tuning Time Attack / Time Correction
9 8:25 AM 8:50 AM 0:25 NASA Main Points Race (Big Bore)
10 8:50 AM 9:05 AM 0:15 HPDE4
11 9:05 AM 9:15 AM 0:10 TT (Small Bore)
12 9:15 AM 9:25 AM 0:10 TT (Big Bore)
13 9:25 AM 9:40 AM 0:15 HPDE3
14 9:40 AM 9:55 AM 0:15 HPDE1 & HPDE2 (combined)
15 9:55 AM 10:10 AM 0:15 HPDE4
16 10:10 AM 10:25 AM 0:15 TT (Combined)
17 10:25 AM 10:40 AM 0:15 HPDE3
18 10:40 AM 10:55 AM 0:15 HPDE1 & HPDE2 (combined)

Will be lurking around the shift fast tent this time...

Can I work Saturday to pay for HPDE1 Sunday?

PM Topramn he handles that shizz

whaaat?! i didn't know that was a option. and were they always 15 min sessions? in for Sunday. i also will lurk around shiftfast (if thiers room) haha:drive:

Yes I do. It is actually better to email me though.


They will make room for you for sure. Plan on being there.

Our summer series runs a compacted schedule in efforts to beat the heat. We have been doing these morning events for well over 5 years and our records show that we have never reached triple digit temps before the final checkered flag flies for the day.

Working for credit is an option but let me make a few statements regarding my worker program. First off, I will not pass up any of my current workers who have dedicated months or even years to me to hire someone new. Not trying to be a dick, just setting the expectation. I have no problem adding people to the list but you must understand that it takes time and dedication. I ask that all new workers work 1 full training day before being allowed to work on their own. This is not always required but a preference. The training day is a volunteer day. After you have completed the training day, I will give you more details regarding working for credit. Due to the length of Summer events, it takes 2 summer mornings to earn a full day. I also manage Porsche Club of Arizona and other various club events in the spring and fall that I host training at and any training done at those events is considered 1 day. All worker requests and information is done by email so please make sure you have an email and check it! To be added to the worker list, email me at .

E-mailed

Camp Shift Fast is a pretty large area usually :) Just show up on time and we pretty much save spots for about 6 team members and then have allotted areas around us for anyone else who wants to join in on the good times! All Makes and models are always welcome as long as you are there to make friends and have fun, we welcome you! Our goal is simply to build relationships through racing and to have fun! We are here to help you with your experience at NASA AZ.

I personally will be there, but as usually am fairly occupied helping out with my students, TT, TA, and operations details so please bear with us if you need help setting up. Just look for the Type R and the NSX and a few mazda's and you know your in the right place. Our banner should be up as well.

Cheers!

Must
Fix
Overheating....
:smokin:

I'll be there. Hopefully running more than one lap at a time. Grrr

this is were the cool kids hang out with the geeks and the cool kids are treated as equals :wave1:

i feel your pain i maybe 5 laps in on pro auto. :smackself:

i passed hpde1 but seemed to miss placed my hpde passport. so wha can i do? take hpde1 again or?...

I could only get a 50% warm-up lap, an 80% warm up lap, and then a lap or 2 of 100% before limp mode @220*


Need bigger, better radiator and oil cooling.

Wow 220 limp mode? Considering water boils at 212, seems like thats a bit low? Granted I've seen Ravi's nsx run with 0psi on the cooling system and never touch 205.

Yes and no.

But I took into consideration the fact that most of the cars I've been working on lately (chrysler/fiat/mopar), their fans turn on at 220. Fan is forced on at 180 no matter the speed, and it hit 208 way too fast. But it's not like all the water is going to evaporate as soon as it hits 212... anyways. 220 I felt was the max I wanted it to reach, since that's where locash set the original overheating temperature. (I kinda just talked in circles, having trouble concentrating)

But ya. Was fine the 10 times it got to 220 and I let it cool down. Didn't make the 2+ hour drive to tucson and pay 200$to putz around the track in 4th all day. Water level stays the same, no loss of compression, no water/oil mixing. I'll upgrade/change a few things, and should do better.

Wait.

What do you mean, a bit low? What temperatures do you operate at while on track?

My point was, that a automotive system usually has 15+ psi of pressure on it to keep the boiling point of the water as high as possible to prevent airation of the cooling system. 3 degree's per every psi of pressure... so figure your cooling system was not going to allow water to boil until 212+45 = 257 degree's... The oxygen in a system of this design will stay in solution until that temperature. So seeing 220-225 would not be unheard of.

I believe Ravi's "crap" temperature is 230 and he then backs off for a lap or two. The Fans on his oil coolers come on at 200, and 215ish for the radiator.

I know on his RX7 he ran them a little different since it was a multistage fan...

220 is just... 8 degree's above the boiling point of water, and really not an extreme in terms of water temperature. 230 seems to be the 'yellow' for most and 235 and above tends to be the danger zone.

Also, what type of oil are you using... be sure you haven't increased the viscosity too much if you haven't added any additional oil cooling devices to remove the heat that a higher viscosity oil will hold in.

Hit him up, he's usually at work during the weekdays and would be happy to explain the physics of it.
480-204-2717 <ravis work #

-john

what size radiator do you have Dead Bird?

I'm running a full radiator and the fan is wired constant because I haven't put a fan switch in my lower hose. coming off track I'm sitting like 180-190degrees at the top hose.

No biggie. PM me your name (or post it here) and I'll look you up in the system. If you're there, then I'll reply confirming that you're in the system and cleared to sign up for DE2.

:drive:

What radiator do you have in there right now?
Are you FI or NA?
I'm sure you've seen these thread:
Lots of helpful advice in there for troubleshooting overheating woes on track


FWIW: 220 is a pretty safe temperature for your ECU to put the engine in limp mode. You can absolutely go higher, but the higher you go the more apt you are start breaking stuff.

Using 10w30. Didn't want to thicken it too much before oil cooling system is installed.
Can't remember the exact mixture of coolant/water right now, but I wanna say between .25 and .5 gallons of coolant, and the rest distilled water. Gonna switch that up a bit too after new radiator goes in.

I misread your statement at first. I didn't realize how "okay" 220 is I guess, so I began explaining why I was letting it get to that hot, when you were telling me it is okay to run that hot and hotter. I understand the relationship between pressure and boiling point of water, along with most of the other science involved. But it's always nice to see it spelled out just to freshen mahh memories.

Oem EG half size, with the bottom half of the fins pretty ugly.

N/A k20a3 block, k24a2 (tsx) head, k20z3 cams, RRC Intake manifold, k-tuned header, stock DC integra exhaust, all cooled through an OEM Civic eg half-size radiator with the lower portion of the fins all damaged up. A whopping 180whp and 130wtq.

I set it at 220 to keep it relatively safe. I assumed that while the limp mode came on at 220, it probably climbed a little bit more before it started cooling down. I was comfortable with 220, and it worked out okay. The track was crap that day anyways, so I wasn't too disappointed in the car, especially for the laps i was cooling down, just cruising in 4th, i was still on plenty of people's rear ends.

I was kinda surprised by this, but when I didn't have the fan switch plugged in, my fan still came on when it was supposed to. IDK if the wiring circuitry is that different between our chassis, but I feel like Kpro would handle that for you if you wanted it to not be always on.

Hondata can programed to override the fan switch.

Pretty much anything will be better than your current radiator. :) I'm sure you'll see better temps at the next event.

What jumper harness are you running? I have a Hasport harness and I just jumpered the fan because I don't thinK the ECU will turn on the fan or if it does it probably only turns it on after its to hot. On the other had if the fan switch is unplugged then that part of the circuit is open and that means voltage doesn't travel to the relay right?

Crossing my fingers i can make it out to this one.... more so in the hatch.... if i do make it ill be crashing at the shift fast area per usual

when i went to high comp lsv i cha ged my eg stock radiator for a full size after market one. your na like me so that won't be too hard to change over. the other plus with running a full size radiator is you can run two fans and hookem in one of two ways. you can put both on the fan relay(that how i did mine) or just have one ran direct second the second second fan to the fan relay. I'm sure either will help your problem. also I'm running about 70% coolant as well. you have to remeber the oem radiator was meant for daily commute on a single cam(which made 80hp in its prime)

driving air flow = radiator fan on

if you properly direct air flow to the radiator with a box or equal(sides/top/bottom) then youll notice extreme cooling efficiency over adding fans. Fans are for when youre in street traffic or kick the AC on. Just saying.

oh what i originally came on this thread to say was.... its on bitches!!! SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY!!!!! Changes probably more rear toe and hopefully 2 more new tires!!!!

Hasport Conversion harness as well.

Oh I do forget you don't have kpro though.

that's true and some might argue that putting. wo fans will block more air flow(i put my fans on the front) plus my car was a daily that why i did the two fans.) what do you mean about the box? i got. a cover that suposidly redirects air flow to the radiator is that what your refuring to?