98 D16y7 will not start
Car was running fine, then stubled, stalled and died. Backfired. Started back up, ran for a few and did the same. Wouldn't start again. Was getting a tow, and let the clutch out in gear and it started again, but stumbled, died and stayed dead.
I have looked through multiple forums, and tested EVERYTHING. The injectors are firing, the distributor is new, I am getting spark at the plugs. I tested the IACV and the MAP, both are working and in spec. The only thing I can think of is the PCM, It's a P2E from a 96 DX. Throws codes, but an OBD2 reader for some reason will not communicate with the PCM. |
Timing?
Dizzy is new but what brand? Is the rotor on secure? I had an autozone dizzy and it was the worst 250 ive EVER spent on a car part. Constantly warranting it out 6 months at the most.. |
The injectors are firing what? Gas?
Check for fuel |
If its running and backfiring wouldn't it be getting fuel? To me seems like a timing or firing timing issue.
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It is an O'Reilly dizzy, it's all I could get on short notice. I did test it with some methods I found online, and it all checked out, though. Fuel injectors are getting fuel to the manifold.
At this point, it doesn't even seem like it's trying to fire, it just turns over. I did check for spark from the wires, and did see spark, but I'll check again when I can. I'm just stumped. I even got a P2P yesterday to see if it made a difference, and nothing. |
Try a known good oem dizzy and check timing belt
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you should never have to replace a honda distributor. well maybe every once in a while if the bearing seizes up. 2 things go bad inside. coil or ignitor. replace those and keep the distributor.
most people know the distributor is the weak link in hondas and if honda had a hard time getting them right how do you expect aftermarket to be any better :autored: |
take the timming cover and see if the timming belt spins over.
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Timing belt is good. I read today it could be camshaft/crankshaft sensor? sound plausible at all?
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since it is throwing a code but you cant read it with a reader then you can jump the 2 pin connector by the passenger kick panel and count the blinks of the check engine light to get the code :autored:
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It's been a while since I got to work on the car, but I have been unable to pull the codes, either. I'm still at a total loss on this.
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you need to get the codes and that will tell you what is wrong and what needs to be fixed :wizarddragon:
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I tried to find the 2 puns, but didn't see a 2 pin jump to pull codes like I had on my eg a while back. Would I be able to get codes putting the ecu in another car? I guess the problem with mine is the code reader isn't connecting
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I'll do that. The battery died, the codes should be saved, right?
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ok, got 8 long, 5 short then 9 long 2 short
I should add, the check engine light never blinked, the SRS light did |
Well now I'm sad. I got a new cap and rotor, and there is for sure spark to the plugs. I did a compression test, and came out crap. 110 95 80 and I din't bother doing the 4th, because I don't know how to do a head gasket or whatever the hell is wrong, now.
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