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EG Civic/Del Sol + DC Integra Civic (92-95), Del Sol (93-97) and Integra (94-01) Discussion

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Old 12-18-2016, 07:40 AM   #1
KillerDragn
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Unhappy 96 GSR Cyl1 Miss

Posting this in the Integra section since the car has a 1996 GS-R Swap. If this isn't acceptable, please spank me hard and move me to the appropriate trashcan.

Specifics:
96 B18c1 (Unknown Mileage) w/ I,H,E
?? LS Trans
P72 ECU
00 Civic CX Hatch Chassis (160,000mi)
00 Civic CX Engine Harness
GSR D3197 Stamped Distributor (9pin 2plug, converted to 99-00 8pin 1plug)

Issue:
Cylinder 1 misfire at idle, clears up with throttle, car can be driven and taken all the way to limiter with no hesitation, no sputtering, no breakup. Cylinder 1 Misfire Code (Flashing CEL) and P1399

What ive done before or after this issue arose in no specific order:
New Delco Primary O2 Sensor
IACV Cleaning
Inspect and move plugs (No change, plugs only 5k old, NGK Iridium @ OEM Gap)
Cap and Rotor
Fuel Filter
Seafoam & Redline Injector Cleaner

The distributor looks to have been entirely original besides the modded plug, TEC TC-08a Coil, NEC Brown ICM, Original Honda Cap and Rotor based upon the markings before I swapped the cap and rotor with some new ones.

This issue arose after doing a couple pulls back to back last night, However about a week ago, the vehicle began suspiciously throwing a CEL for Cyl 1, 3, 4 randomly, after sitting at idle for around 5 minutes. However the idle itself was smooth, no hesitation and the vehicle drove fine at any RPM any Throttle any Gear, yada yada. I didn't pay it much mind, I figured the car was just being a PITA since it drove with no impact.

I ordered a new TC-08a Coil to arrive on Monday, and will report back after that. In the mean time I plan to hit up vatozone later today for some plug wires in hopes its just something simple.

Any ideas? If I forgot anything obvious feel free to flog me. I got a multimeter handy if testing any plugs is suggested, I gotta dig around for a long enough flathead to use as a stethoscope to see if Injector 1 is functioning properly at idle.

Winner gets a .mp3 of me moaning their name/username until im yelling.
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Old 12-18-2016, 08:39 AM   #2
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oem cap and rotor?
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Old 12-18-2016, 08:23 PM   #3
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AutoZone wires will exasperate the problem. Oem or ngk wires only
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Old 12-18-2016, 08:29 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbaracing View Post
AutoZone wires will exasperate the problem. Oem or ngk wires only
agreed. I've had my fair dealings with autozone distributor, autozone cap, autozone rotor, autozone wires... i was left stranded every few months until later I realized a used oem distributor, new oem honda wires, new oem cap and rotor were actually just as cheap if not cheaper and performed much better..
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Old 12-18-2016, 08:29 PM   #5
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Get some ls copper plugs and get rid of the iridiums

Reset ecu and clear code. Turn car on and let run in driveway until cooling fan turns on. Turn car off. Turn car on and drive
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Old 12-19-2016, 09:50 AM   #6
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OP - You forgot the most critical test of them all. Have you done a compression test? You can rent a tester at vatozone and get your deposit making the test free-monies. If you have low compression in one of your cylinders, your can would still rev throughout the powerband, but low RPM/ Idle you'd get hickups from lack of compression.

As Cbaracing said, stick with NGK copper plugs. They are the best plugs you can use for your N/A stock motor. If your compression test comes back, post the numbers here. Say your compression is within good ratios of each cylinder, I would go the route of replacing OEM rotor, cap, and NGK wires if possible. Also, have you ever changed the PCV valve? Those guys can get clogged up REALLY good especially being a used unknown mileage motor. That is ALOT of blow by gases sitting in your engine and can cause a mess of problems related to slow deterioration of that engine as a whole.
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Old 12-19-2016, 09:52 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broskiballa View Post
OP - You forgot the most critical test of them all. Have you done a compression test? You can rent a tester at vatozone and get your deposit making the test free-monies. If you have low compression in one of your cylinders, your can would still rev throughout the powerband, but low RPM/ Idle you'd get hickups from lack of compression.
that has nothing to do with cylinder misfire
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Old 12-20-2016, 08:58 AM   #8
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So you're saying a cylinder with low compression will not cause misfire? Doesn't lack of cylinder pressure mess with the air/fuel mixture? There fore, in some cases can cause misfire.
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Old 12-22-2016, 05:51 PM   #9
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Hey guys. Thanks for the suggestions, Unfortunately a new Distributor+Adapter harness to make it work didn't cure anything (Just to note, the Rywire 10/9? Pin OBD2 to 8pin OBD2 will cause no tach signal atleast in my case, doesnt matter, since it didnt cure it im returning the distro and harness and slapping my old one on since its not the problem). I jumped the gun abit so I took a step back and attached a old spark plug to Cyl1's wire, healthy blue spark. Still missing on Cyl1, same code. Shoulda done this right away, I know, but it was wishful thinking the distro was the issue, easy fix.

I'll head to vatozone on my next day off and pick up a Compression tester and timing light if they have both available to loan aswell as some NGK Copper plugs, can't afford new ngk wires atm but they're on the list.

@Cbaracing: Whats the logic on the "Reset ecu and clear code. Turn car on and let run in driveway until cooling fan turns on. Turn car off. Turn car on and drive"? I can understand resetting the ecu but the rest perplexes me alittle as to what it accomplishes.

Recap: New distro, No dice. Clean spark on Cyl1. Injector firing (Garage reeks of fuel).

Next: Compression Test, Timing Check.

If timing jumped during redline, wouldn't the engine run like shit as a whole? (Not just cyl1 misfiring)
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Old 12-22-2016, 06:52 PM   #10
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Valve adjustment possibly, me and another member here found out that valves that are not properly adjusted can actually cause cylinder not to fire at all. We adjusted it to spec and boom no more problem.

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Old 12-22-2016, 10:15 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Littlejon1378 View Post
Valve adjustment possibly, me and another member here found out that valves that are not properly adjusted can actually cause cylinder not to fire at all. We adjusted it to spec and boom no more problem.

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I just picked up a 32pc Feeler gauge set, ill see if I cant borrow a friends jack to check (Car is too low for my normal jack to fit under)

Are these clearances correct? If anyone knows off the top of their head lol.

  • B18C1
  • Intake .006 - .007 in
  • Exhaust .007 - .008 in
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Old 12-22-2016, 11:15 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KillerDragn View Post
I just picked up a 32pc Feeler gauge set, ill see if I cant borrow a friends jack to check (Car is too low for my normal jack to fit under)

Are these clearances correct? If anyone knows off the top of their head lol.

  • B18C1
  • Intake .006 - .007 in
  • Exhaust .007 - .008 in
Yes those clearances are correct also you do not need a jack to do a valve adjustment. Google "Gsr valve adjustment" and the first link is a how to, also Eric the car guy has a video of him doing a valve adjustment on a Gsr.

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Old 12-27-2016, 06:29 AM   #13
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Ive been busy with work (Working Christmas eve and day). Work nights so things get alittle all over the place.

Anyway, Ive conceited that its something valve related, the rpm's smooth out right around 3k rpm and it stops missing, so ive begun the head pull process. I just need to jack up the car to disconnect the header from the mid pipe, drain fluids, remove strut bar, PCV & Brake Booster and 1-2 additional plugs. Crack the headbolts loose and the head is ready to come out. Not hard at all, took me maybe 1 1/2 hr of half-hearted wrenching at 1am in my frigid garage but very easy (Thanks honda).

I'll report back with pictures once the head is off to show the damage.

New thread: www.azht.net/forum/showthread.php?p=3269790 , but ill be checking this one still.
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