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Old 04-15-2015, 08:49 AM   #1
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Oil catch cans when?

So i have a question, at what point is a catch can really necessary?

I THINK my current setup i am at around the 12:1 or 11:8 comp level.
I am still breaking in the motor but i seem to get most of my smoke on deceleration not acceleration. Im guessing i have alot of crank case pressure.

Should i just wait it out until the motor is completely broken in, or should i install a catch can now?

I did a comp test yesterday with engine cold and got 240-245-250-250 across

nothing has changed in the head.

OR

Could it be my oil rings didn't set correctly or i put them to close together on install?

What do you guys think or suggest?
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Old 04-15-2015, 02:00 PM   #2
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I think you should install the can now. It will keep the gunk off the head and keep it clean. Also, I don't know how you broke it in, but the last motor I put together I let it warm up made sure no leaks and went out and did multiple pulls at different rpm vs speed vs gear. Basically drove it hard then changed the oil and did that was it. I don't understand why people take the soft way to break them in, rings will seat in like the first 20,minutes of the motors life.

What was your break in procedure?
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Old 04-15-2015, 03:01 PM   #3
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started her up made sure rpms were at 2k. made sure no leaks let it run for like 10-15 min at that rpm. drained oil and replaced filter. Ive been driving it to work doing different loads and engine braking. the smoke seems to be going away little by little but it is still annoying. i dont want to have to do it all over again.
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Old 04-15-2015, 03:41 PM   #4
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Does your engine have the black box?

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Old 04-15-2015, 03:41 PM   #5
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What was your ring gaps and did you have a machine shop hone it?

Also, how many miles have you put on it?
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Old 04-15-2015, 03:53 PM   #6
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I have a black box

Don't remember ring gap unfortunately.

I honed it my self

And I have approximately 112 miles on it.

How ever I just thought I may not be having smoke out of my exhaust it may just be coming from under the car. The pcv valve isn't very secure. I need to have my wife drive behind me to confirm.
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Old 04-15-2015, 04:58 PM   #7
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What is your current crankcase ventilation setup now?
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Old 04-15-2015, 05:53 PM   #8
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I have some extra fittings for the back of the block if you decide to do a catch can.

I just installed an endyn catch can myself and im just running the filter on the can but um going to get a pcv valve and grommet and replace the filter with that and see how it works. Sorry kinda off topic.

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Old 04-15-2015, 05:54 PM   #9
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Or I have my factory pcv set up if yours is messed up somehow

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Old 04-15-2015, 06:05 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueTeg View Post
What is your current crankcase ventilation setup now?
Valve cover to intake

Big nipple in front of IM has hose connected to pcv valve, pcv valve to black box.
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Old 04-15-2015, 06:32 PM   #11
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Do a hot compression test and see where its at. But cold one looks good. Just keep driving like you are at varying speeds and loads.

And you should definately run a catch can.
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Old 04-15-2015, 07:14 PM   #12
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Warmed car up to normal operating temperature.

Numbers from left to right standing in front of car
First number closest to dizzy
TB wide open

250. - 245 - 230 - 240
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Old 04-15-2015, 07:17 PM   #13
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Spark plugs look like this

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Old 04-15-2015, 07:21 PM   #14
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How they get worse? Have you honed a block before?

I say drive it for a couple hundred more miles and beat on it then see how its doing. I think OEM maxx difference is 25psi between cylinders? I need to look at my manual.
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Old 04-15-2015, 07:24 PM   #15
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That doesn't look good. Definately burning oil. I pulled the plugs from the motor I rebuilt after 55k miles and they looked better than that. Go out and bet on it.
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Old 04-15-2015, 07:25 PM   #16
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I got a great engine builder if this ends up needing to be redone.
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Old 04-15-2015, 07:40 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZ_CIVIC View Post
I got a great engine builder if this ends up needing to be redone.
We don't quit that easy lol. New rings and a fresh hone will do wonders. But that's thinking way in advance.

Plus, the motor seems to be running good besides the comp numbers.
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Old 04-16-2015, 07:46 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by king06 View Post
That doesn't look good. Definately burning oil. I pulled the plugs from the motor I rebuilt after 55k miles and they looked better than that. Go out and bet on it.
To be honest idk how many miles are on these they came with the b16 motor. They were full of oil when o first finished and I cleaned them off and now they have this light charcoal look to them. Maybe I'm running a little lean?


Quote:
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I got a great engine builder if this ends up needing to be redone.
Thanks I do most of my own work. Worse case I buy new rings and do it all over again. It can be done in a weekend.


I'm going to just drive it a little harder and finish off this tank of gas. Of its still the same by the end of my tank of gas which should be 300 miles. Im pulling it apart, getting a new/different hone and re-doing the rings
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Old 04-16-2015, 10:22 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4dr_ed3 View Post
To be honest idk how many miles are on these they came with the b16 motor. They were full of oil when o first finished and I cleaned them off and now they have this light charcoal look to them. Maybe I'm running a little lean?




Thanks I do most of my own work. Worse case I buy new rings and do it all over again. It can be done in a weekend.


I'm going to just drive it a little harder and finish off this tank of gas. Of its still the same by the end of my tank of gas which should be 300 miles. Im pulling it apart, getting a new/different hone and re-doing the rings
Sweet, sounds like you got it all figured out then.
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Old 04-16-2015, 11:45 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4dr_ed3 View Post
Valve cover to intake

Big nipple in front of IM has hose connected to pcv valve, pcv valve to black box.
1) plug intake nipple.
2) Buy a baffled catch can. I like the Endyn (which is a modified Moroso) can. It's a $100 if you buy just the can from them, or like $200 if you buy all the other crap from them.
3) run a line from the nipple on the valve cover to a baffled catch can.

4) plug the nipple on the intake manifold
5) remove/delete the black box and replace with a plug. I like the one from Full-Race (support local business!) but you can get BWR or some other brand and save $5
6) run a line from the nipple (that used to feed your black box) off the back of the block to your catch can

7) remove one of the hex-freeze plugs on the back of the block and replace with a fitting from Locash to run -10 AN line or a Prelude nipple plug if you want to run half inch hose. You'll use that for the drainback and also run (a thicker) line from there to the bottom of the catch can.

The brass fittings used for the catch can, can be purchased from any home improvement store.
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Old 04-16-2015, 11:50 AM   #21
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Awesome info man!
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