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Old 08-04-2011, 03:31 PM   #1
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Tein Flex/ASR rear subfram/sway Installation**

So I made a little purchase these last few weeks and picked up some goodies.

Purchased:
Tein Flex Dampers coilovers 96-00 ek
ASR Rear subframe
ASR Rear sway bar with some ASR endlinks




I have a 2000 civic ex 5 speed coupe 134,XXX Bone stock*.

The only aftermarket things I have on the car the following:

3 point front password jdm strut bar
4 point rear password Jdm strut bar



So with that said. After I get the rear subframe/sway/and tein coilovers in the mail, I have to figure out how to install them myself.


Any suggestions on what else I should replace while im adding these? (bushings, washers) Any tips would be nice as this is my first coilover suspension and first sway bar.




Thanks!
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Old 08-06-2011, 08:08 PM   #2
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probably want to go with bushing if you have some money.. the trailing arm bushings are probably due if they are original to the car..and i would get OEM ones as well. make sure you clock them.. if you drop your car a lot youll rip them in no time. and also after you install all you goodies. i strongly recomment an alignment but you probably know that.
have fun
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Old 08-07-2011, 10:03 AM   #3
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X2 ^ not familiar with the phrase "Clock them" but defiantly make sure you torque the lower control arms ect once the car is sitting on the ground. Don't tighten shit while it's still up in the air or on jacks or whatever, or you'll be ripping your new bushings. Let us know how you like the Tein goodies. I've been looking at upgrading my civic. BTW B.A.P sells a solid trailing arm bushing I've had a lot of luck with.
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Old 08-07-2011, 10:28 AM   #4
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you need a press to do the rear trailing arms bushings...

seeing as he is not familiar how to even do just the coil overs i wouldnt suggest you take on this task on your own... not to mention he has to drop the whole thing. i wouldn't do it all, you got low miles on your car. i have yet to change out a single set of trailing arm bushing, and i all my cars have been low if you have seen them.

tein flex's dont go that low, i had them on my vsm... i suggest take out all the perches but the last one before you put them on that way if you decide you want to go low you dont have to pull the whole thing out just to pull out the rings. if your not going low then just leave all the perches in so you can pre load the spring. tein has life time warranty to dont worry about blowing them lol, but you wont.

please keep your fender lining, just use a razor blade to cut the center section... i cannot stress how much better a car looks with fender lining than without.

GL
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Old 08-07-2011, 12:22 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ej6pusha1998 View Post
X2 ^ not familiar with the phrase "Clock them" but defiantly make sure you torque the lower control arms ect once the car is sitting on the ground. Don't tighten shit while it's still up in the air or on jacks or whatever, or you'll be ripping your new bushings. Let us know how you like the Tein goodies. I've been looking at upgrading my civic. BTW B.A.P sells a solid trailing arm bushing I've had a lot of luck with.
Clocking the bushing means if you drop your car the angle of the trailling arm changes..so the bushing has to turn..if you don't it put stress on the bushing it will eventually rip it.

Every single Honda I bought in the past year had both left and right trailling arm bushing ripped. All of then had 190 k + anyways...
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Old 08-07-2011, 01:58 PM   #6
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Quote:
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you need a press to do the rear trailing arms bushings...
You can actually do it with a mallet, just takes a few hits and they pop out. Theres a youtube video on it I found a few years ago on made by someone from dseries.

I had to do it on my car when it only had 70k on it. One of them was completely blown out when I went to put my coils on. I replaced it with a cheap bap one and 6 months later when I went to do my rear discs. The bap one was already ripping, the rubber is super soft compared to oem. So before I put the new trailing arms on I replaced the bushing with the ES rta bushings. Only down side is you have to re-use the ring and wish bone from the oem bushing. Takes a,while to cut the rubber out if you dont have a torch to do it. But its worth it.


If you have any specific questions on anything just ask and I can try to give you a walkthrough sometime when im not posting on my phone.



Other then that its all very straight forward. Goodluck buddy.
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Old 08-07-2011, 03:00 PM   #7
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The ones from B.A.P I was talking about was the SOLID ploy bushing they carry, not the $10 O.E style ones. You don't have to clock those because the center "pin" is completely surrounded by polyurethane, free floating in other words.
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Old 08-07-2011, 03:00 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chinky View Post
you need a press to do the rear trailing arms bushings...

seeing as he is not familiar how to even do just the coil overs i wouldnt suggest you take on this task on your own... not to mention he has to drop the whole thing. i wouldn't do it all, you got low miles on your car. i have yet to change out a single set of trailing arm bushing, and i all my cars have been low if you have seen them.

tein flex's dont go that low, i had them on my vsm... i suggest take out all the perches but the last one before you put them on that way if you decide you want to go low you dont have to pull the whole thing out just to pull out the rings. if your not going low then just leave all the perches in so you can pre load the spring. tein has life time warranty to dont worry about blowing them lol, but you wont.

please keep your fender lining, just use a razor blade to cut the center section... i cannot stress how much better a car looks with fender lining than without.

GL

I definitely plan on going low. Just not too too low. I want to be able to drive on streets without stressing too much. Your rides are definitely low lol.
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Old 08-07-2011, 03:13 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirt McGirk View Post
You can actually do it with a mallet, just takes a few hits and they pop out. Theres a youtube video on it I found a few years ago on made by someone from dseries.

I had to do it on my car when it only had 70k on it. One of them was completely blown out when I went to put my coils on. I replaced it with a cheap bap one and 6 months later when I went to do my rear discs. The bap one was already ripping, the rubber is super soft compared to oem. So before I put the new trailing arms on I replaced the bushing with the ES rta bushings. Only down side is you have to re-use the ring and wish bone from the oem bushing. Takes a,while to cut the rubber out if you dont have a torch to do it. But its worth it.


If you have any specific questions on anything just ask and I can try to give you a walkthrough sometime when im not posting on my phone.



Other then that its all very straight forward. Goodluck buddy.
My bushings appear to be fine. I don't see any rust or corrosion. They should be good meantime.



Question: So when I finally get my rear LCA's back on. Do not torque them until the car is on the ground correct? In addition, is there any other part I should be careful with? 2000 ek coupes do not come with rear sway bars. So Should I get all that installed finger tightened, and then torque swap bar endlinks after as well?
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Old 08-07-2011, 03:45 PM   #10
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Everyone - Thanks alot of tips and ideas to research.
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Old 08-07-2011, 04:07 PM   #11
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yeah man slightly snug all the bolts down then put the car on the ground, it's always a good idea to joust the rear end up in down to get every thing seated nicely, then with out raising the car back up crawl under there and torque everything to specks, the ASR sub frame should come with everything you need to install your sway bar minus end-links.
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Old 08-07-2011, 11:18 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ej6pusha1998 View Post
yeah man slightly snug all the bolts down then put the car on the ground, it's always a good idea to joust the rear end up in down to get every thing seated nicely, then with out raising the car back up crawl under there and torque everything to specks, the ASR sub frame should come with everything you need to install your sway bar minus end-links.
I made sure I got the ASR Endlinks with the package :P Thanks for the tips! I was planning on doing something along that to make sure everything is even*.


This should be alot of fun. Should I install the coilovers first then the sway bar? I need to measure the height to ensure the car is balanced properly on all sides. Would make sense that way at least.
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Old 08-07-2011, 11:35 PM   #13
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Very informative thread here fella's. Keep up the good work!
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I'm sure a red bull can with jb weld would work too if you really wanted it to.
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Old 08-08-2011, 12:09 PM   #14
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Will have pictures of the full installation and any issues I run into. Should be getting the packages Wednesday.
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Old 08-09-2011, 05:50 PM   #15
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You will need integra lca's for the sway bar install.
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Old 08-09-2011, 06:09 PM   #16
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Quote:
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You will need integra lca's for the sway bar install.
+1

forgot about that or after market
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Old 08-09-2011, 06:26 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by lowriderferio View Post
You will need integra lca's for the sway bar install.
Thats only for eg. All 96-00 models came with lcas with the hole for the sway.
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Old 08-09-2011, 06:29 PM   #18
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Quote:
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Thats only for eg. All 96-00 models came with lcas with the hole for the sway.
^^^Truth.
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I'm sure a red bull can with jb weld would work too if you really wanted it to.
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Old 08-09-2011, 06:40 PM   #19
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Thats only for eg. All 96-00 models came with lcas with the hole for the sway.
my bad.
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Old 08-09-2011, 06:54 PM   #20
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my bad.
Its all good man.


You should still get some aftermarket lcas just to floss with the asr brace.
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Old 08-09-2011, 11:19 PM   #21
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in.
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Old 08-09-2011, 11:50 PM   #22
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Just got everything in the mail. lol, dunno where to start. Pics soon**


I have to double check that I have holes on the LCA's.
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Old 08-09-2011, 11:56 PM   #23
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Its all good man.


You should still get some aftermarket lcas just to floss with the asr brace.
They're honestly not necessary in my opinion.




I just checked, my lca's. They have holes for rear sway already. So looks like this should be an easy add-on. Hopefully I got everything I need for now.
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Old 08-10-2011, 07:17 PM   #24
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^ sounds like you do big homie, shitty ass pic but it sounds like your set up is very similar to mine, hit me up if you got any questions on how shit goes.



note the blocks of wood under the tires, i did that so my fat ass could move around under there better while torquing all the bolts down.
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Old 08-10-2011, 10:14 PM   #25
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Will do thanks. Took picssss! Will post them in the morning
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Old 08-11-2011, 06:28 PM   #26
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And the funnn begin's........................


I preloaded each spring EVENLY just enough so that they are snug




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Old 08-11-2011, 07:17 PM   #27
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Im jelly as fuck!!!
I want that subframe brace soooo bad....
Soon, soon I tell you!
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I'm sure a red bull can with jb weld would work too if you really wanted it to.
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Old 08-12-2011, 12:22 PM   #28
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Im jelly as fuck!!!
I want that subframe brace soooo bad....
Soon, soon I tell you!
Feels extremely strong. Definitely do not need a rear lower tie bar after having one of these installed. I personally dislike how rear lca's/ rear tie bars are soo flashy on hondas. It begs "STEAL ME".


But any who, I need to figure out which setting of "Dampening Setting" I should start off. They are all set to maxim stiffness at this time. I'll probably start at setting 2 all around, and work from there.


Tip: 1-16 clicks on the top of the strut*

Tighter = stiffer (clockwise)
Loosen = softer (counter clockwise)

Starting by the most stiff setting by tightening (carefully ** never over tighten or over loosen). Then will start to loosen untill im at 14 clicks. Which will be 2 clicks into stiffness.


This is going to be a huge stiff change from stock suspension to Tein flex.
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Old 08-14-2011, 04:17 PM   #29
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*********UPDATE, SUNDAY 8/14***********************



Sorry for the delay in pictures and updates. However, I ran into a huge issue. (insert facepalm). I got all the coilovers installed quickly and was working on my last side (rear right) Welllll.... I thought at the time it would be easier to remove the bolt that connects the LCA to the rear knuckle. Well my problems turned for the worse.

That bolt was farrrr beyond stubborn. After WD 40 and strenght. I managed to break the bolt off the head. So since 12pm yesterday I was trying to drill that bolt out with bits and use an easy out after wards.



Today is day 2. With zero luck! Im to the point where I started calling around shops that I'd hope are open because I have a fulltime job to attend to Monday-Friday 8:30-4:30. I can't miss any days, and with me in phoenix/avondale boarder trying to drive my car to Tempe is not good.


Any ideas?!?!?! I haven't taken pictures yet. But I need desperate help at this point to ensure the reliability of my car. And I have money to whom can seriously help.
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Old 08-15-2011, 01:31 PM   #30
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Heading to Tri-tech this evening to see if Josh can help me kick that bolts ass.
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